butnut

Get them here... TV Jones My buddy on the Telemodders is just about done with his latest project...killer! I made the kustom hot dog plate and LP donut... HiLo caster

If you are only changing the bridge pup, you still need to route the hole a little bigger. You can get a 'mini' humbucker to fit the stock bridge with no mods unless you want a full sized humbucker. I have the Duncan JB which is a favorite HB bridge pup used by a lot of rockers. My other Tele has a Lil59 which is Duncans mini HB that fits in a stock Tele bridge. Its a hot pup that sounds good too. Here's a 'fancy' Tele bridge made for a HB pup...

All the Squires I've repainted have a thick poly finish. If you are painting over it, I'd recommend a 320 grit paper to rough it up until entire surface is evenly dull. Blow and wipe dry and shoot your primer. You can smooth the dry primer with 400 grit and shoot colot next. Follow lovekrafts instructions...good luck.

I routed my Tele for 2 humbuckers...a neck and bridge. The neck pup will need a custom pickguard (available online) and you can get a humbucker bridge plate (modern style) online and on Ebay at times. You will need to route (I used a Roto-Zip)... For my Tele-Gib, I cut a vintage tray in half and used it for the bridge like Seymour did for jeff Becks Tele. I have a 'mini' humbucker on my other Tele bridge..a Duncan Lil59 that fits a stock bridge with no routing...I did route the neck for a big CCRider pup... Tele-Gib routes

Here's what a fellow Tele-modder did with his Saga kit...amazing what some wood, glue, sandpaper and paint can do...can't wait to see it done. It's Morphin time! Triceretops! Caution...pics may take a while to load.

HELL yeah! Pete's a nice guy too...talk about fast service. I wanna see those HB soaps!

What grit sandpaper did you use on the wood? Did you use any sealer or primer before you shot the color coat?

haha...ok, we have one here too. I'll start calling it Wallyworld and start a new trend.

I like making up my own stuff...luckily I have a friend who can make decals... headstocks...

Sorry dumb question, what's Wallyworld? Is it Wallmart? I keep picturing the Grizwalds vacation... I live on a tiny rock in the middle of the ocean...under a rock.

Tiger eye Tele... me likey dat one long time!

Thanks guys...all this talk of a clamp system gave me an idea. I have a bike repair stand (table top) that has a clamp and rotating swivel...I'm gonna try it on my next Tele. I'll use the wood 'neck' handle and clamp it to the swivel. I think I found a better way. Thanks.

Here's what I do, I used to hang the bodies, this way is much better. I got the idea when I read Fender used to use thin finishing nails on the top of the body to act as legs when you flip the body over. Just put the nails where it won't show...under the guard and control plate. I make a 'handle' and screw it in the neck pocket...works great, I can hold and shoot the top (or leave it on the table) and flip it over to shoot the bottom. Painting Tele's...

Here's my early 70's Musicmaster bass. I had stripped it's original paint off back then (douh) and brushed varathane on. It stayed that way until last year. My bike buddy had some old cans of Schwinn lacquer I've never seen...it looked retro and it was called Kool Green. I sanded the varathane ( paint remover would'nt budge this old stuff), shot primer, sanded and shot the Kool Green. Using NAPA's clear spray lacquer, I shot a clearcoat. Did a quick sand and buff and it looked real good. This is my only guitar done with rattle cans...downside, it chips real easily. It looks like a mild relic which I don't mind. So, I guess what I'm saying is you can get a good looking paint job with spray paint, but I prefer a spray gun and good paint. Lacquer is very forgiving...you run it, sand and reshoot. I let a coat 'flash dry' a few minutes and shoot the next..no need to let it dry and sand and recoat. Fast build up. Always spray in a ventilated area and wear a paint respirator...even with rattle cans. If you smell fumes, adjust your mask. Musicmaster bass

I have to know,,, is it an old USA Strat?

Awesome drawing...looks perfect o that body. Happy pumpkin day to ya.

Well if it's shine he's looking for, Danish oil won't have it...unless you shoot lacquer or poly over it. I just saw Varathane (the plasticoat stuff) in spray cans that had all kinds of clears for woods...they have come a long way since I first used their brush on stuff 30 years ago...I'm sure their stuff will give a nice glossy wood look easily. I'm almost sure it's poly...Vara(polyure)thane.

Well I'm not too hip on paint chemistry, but I have shot a lot of different products. Nitro is 'old' style, it dries fast for easy build up of coats. It's weakness was durability, it got dark (ambered) and would eventually check (crack). It got 'better' when acrylic lacquer was made. It's considered 'old' now and getting hard to find for guys like me who love working with lacquer kandies and solids. Huge improvements came with the polyester finishes...thick build (depth) high gloss and tough with no yellowing. Reranch is probably one of the few places you'll find nitro (in colors)...I bought a gallon of clear for my necks and relic projects..Reranch won't ship overseas to me... Almost all lacquers (rattle can and cans) you find in auto parts and hardware stores will be acrylic...nothing wrong, still works the same. I never used Rustoleum except for metal painting...must be something about the name ...if you're not fanatical about it being 'nitro' acrylic lacquer will be fine. Try calling auto parts stores to see if they carry it...NAPA had the Martin Senor brand which is pro quality automotive paint...now they have their own Tech line which I use their silver base for my kandy and flake jobs...good luck.

hehe, my Tele and Strat are polyester and yes, both relic'd. While sanding, it had the strong smell of resin...like when I used to repair surfboards. A pro guitar relic'er told me to shoot nitro over the ploy, and it will check like old nitro...I have a new butterscotch Tele body I'm gonna try it on. While weezer is trying to cherry out his guitar, we're bashing ours...

That's exactly how I'd do it lovekraft...after you pull the masking off, blast the clearcoat over it. Sand and buff...rock on.

Hey Dan. I'm certain Squires are poly'ester' finished...very similar to surfboard resin...very hard, but almost brittle. It can scratch fairly easy where polyester being slightly 'softer' may not show the light stuff as easily. A compound and or polish buff will bring out the shine, that stuff is almost indestructible. Good luck.

Any automotive POLISH, not wax, will have some abrasive quality in it. Polish is supposed to remove surface contaminants and minor scratching...a high speed buffer with a 'cutting' pad is most effective, but minor stuff can be rubbed out by hand. I use an orbital just for wax application or with swirl remover. If polish won't remove your scratches, step up to the light compound like the Finesse stuff. Finish off with wax to add some protection to your paint.

Here's my Tele-Gib. Jazz neck and JB bridge (with creme bobbin topper )... Here's my Goldie Tele... Currently working on a relic Esquire...can you tell I love Tele's? I have a JV Strat and P90 Gold top..but that's another story.

If it were mine, I'd leave it that color. I've done kustom repaints and relics...a naturally aged white finish has a special mojo all it's own. Enjoy it, the dates thing is really trippy...I'd love to get any axe made in my birth year...unfortunately, anything with a '55 vintage is gonna cost me a kidney or two...

Hey! Now I remember you...I got a creme Bobbin topper for my zebra JB Duncan to make a double creme like Jeff's...small world. Bobbin topper on JB zebra.