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Armaan

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Everything posted by Armaan

  1. @Bizman62 @curtisa So the poly mixed well with the turpentine and applied nicely to my offcut. I’ve now applied two coats to the guitar, which dried quite quickly - around 2-3 hours. I left it to dry overnight to be safe anyway. The mix was around 60/40 of poly/turpentine. I sanded between the coats using 2000 grit sandpaper (I should have probably used 600?). For the final coats, Im planning on thinning it further - maybe 40/60, to try and get a smooth finish. The current mix applies easily with a rag, but I feel a thinner mix will form a nice even surface easier. Does that make sense? Btw I tried using 0000 steel wool to sand and it left strands everywhere! So I moved to sandpaper.
  2. @Bizman62 The solution for drilling the holes in the knobs worked well. Made two pieces of wood with triangular cut outs to hold the knob in place in the vise, rounded them off with sandpaper to fit the curve of the knob and placed a piece of wood below them to keep it stable in the vise. The Brad point drill bit kept the hole straight and I used the dentist drill to expand the holes to the right size. The knobs can now be pressed on to the pots.
  3. @Bizman62 I agree with what you’re saying. It should not matter how much thinner you use, as its purpose is only to thin the poly and will evaporate after application. I guess more thinner would simply mean more coats are needed to achieve the same build up. I’ve got artists turpentine, which appears to be the pine turpentine you mentioned. Let me give it a go
  4. A local dealer said it would be fine. Checking with the company as well.
  5. This makes sense and I’ve tried to follow this as far as possible. But unfortunately, if I were to try to buy wipe on poly in India, it would cost me over 10 times as much as the Berger poly I bought Difficult to find properly stocked hardware stores and to find people who know the answers to the questions I’m asking. Which is why this thread gets such a steady supply...
  6. Also, just to be sure, I could just use turpentine to thin the Berger poly right instead of mineral spirits? I believe these are interchangeable solvents/thinners? The Berger ingredients list “mineral turpentine oil” as an ingredient which I understand is the same as mineral spirits.
  7. Seems to be the case. I’m planning to thin the Berger Poly with mineral spirits and give it a go. Let’s see how it turns out. Btw I was watching this exact video this morning! Plus some videos by Highline guitars and Brad Asgove - I usually find their videos to be quite informative.
  8. So I assumed that urethane would be required to make the product polyurethane, but I couldn’t spot it in the ingredient list for these products. Unlike these two, the PU finish I bought locally says that it contains Urethan Alkyd Resin (see pictured below). My objective was to use danish oil to get a nice colour into the wood and penetrative protection, and then apply poly over it to get more protection and a glossier top coat. I’ve now applied 4 coats of Danish and was planning to move on to Poly or a mix of danish and Poly for the top coat. This is my first wood working project and I have no experience in these matters. Hence the many questions!
  9. Wipe-on poly: I was also looking at wipe-on poly’s and found that the chemical ingredients don’t mention that they contain urethane. They seem to list a bunch of thinners. See below the ingredients for Minwax and Watco’s wipe on poly. Not sure what I’m missing here. Watco: Minwax:
  10. Poly finish: I assume the process for applying the poly will be different than an oil finish right? The poly is a lot more sticky and viscous and could leave application marks. Any suggestions?
  11. Sounds like a plan! Will give it a try and hopefully this and the Brad point bit solve the issue. Will post an update once done
  12. So I ran into some problems when attempting this. I don’t have access to a drill press and only have a drill and a table vise. It’s difficult to clamp the sides of the knob (being round) and I can’t apply too much downward drilling pressure in fear of the knob slipping out of the vise (which happened once ). Another problem is the inner surface of the knobs are curved in a way which makes the drill bit slip a lot. I ordered a Brad point drill bits in the hope that it should keep the bit steady in the pilot hole. Any suggestions on how I can manage this process better with my makeshift set up? Also I was wondering if filling the hole with wax might help in getting a better fit?
  13. So weird, but it seems the case with this one as well. I applied it to a walnut offcut to see and it was clear when applied. As a test, I sectioned the offcut into three parts - one part only poly, second only danish, third danish followed by poly (ie not a mix, but sequential instead). I might also make a fourth piece with the mix. Will put up some pictures once I’ve put a few coats.
  14. Looks amazing - even without the veneer!
  15. Looks really interesting. Love the contrast in the wood.
  16. This looks great. The white and black contrast is great and the lines are really interesting.
  17. Poly: I opened the tin of poly and found that it was reddish brown, which was surprising as I was expecting it to be colourless or light amber at the least. The tech sheet also says that this is meant to be colourless. Has it gone off or started to cure in the tin? The tin appeared to be properly sealed, but not 100% foolproof. Here is what the poly looks like: @Bizman62 I mixed the danish and the poly as you suggested and they seemed to mix okay. I’ll let it sit for a bit and check again. The image below is the mix, which took the colour of the poly:
  18. They really are! The brown ones look even better in person. So the hole should be as wide as the pot shaft right? I’m asking because the sides of the shaft are splined. What’s the purpose of the splined shaft? Forgive me if these are dumb questions, but I really have no clue. Remember I have ZERO woodworking experience before this project
  19. Knobs: I received some knobs from a local supplier. I’ll do a mock up once the danish cures. How I go about preparing them for fitting to the pots? They currently have a flat bottom. See the pictures below.
  20. Perfect! I’ve been keeping the rags submerged under water for at least 24 hours. I’m working out of my apartment so I’m particularly scared of it catching fire
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