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LFlab

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LFlab last won the day on June 14

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    Rosmalen, NL

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  1. That neck looks great, amazed that you get those Rampa nuts in that straight, I am always fighting with those. Nice work on the plug for the mistake also, a good match.
  2. An older thread, but a lovely restoration, also handplane afficionado myself, albeit of the blue ones (Record/Woden). With respect to waterstones vs. diamondplates, the latter definitely are not as hard wearing as people say they are. I have done a few restorations where I needed to do a lot of work on the plane iron, and that wore out the extra coarse diamondplate quite quickly. First one only lasted half a year or so. For maintenance of your own planes it is probably fine, and it is somewhat less of a faff and less messy than waterstones, so I continue to use them. But for coarse work, your preserve waterstones and diamondplates, and just stick coarse sandpaper to something flat.
  3. Salamandra, a shortscale bass, modeled after a St.Vincent signature guitar. See build thread here: Build thread 30" scale, basswood body, uses a shortscale neck with paddle headstock from Amazon. Built in the shed, this time, I milled the body from rough lumber. That saves a lot of money, so I'll do that again. The pickups are Artec mudbuckers, coupled to a discrete preamp (no IC's/ Opamps) of my own design, it uses a buffer per pickup, and a summing amp on the end. 18v , so two 9v batteries. Fire salamander on the headstock the Amazon neck seems pretty good, they have this exact one also as a baritone neck (just has a different nut), recommended if anyone is looking for a simple baritone build.
  4. I work at a maintenance department, and we have that rubber with teardrop anti slip pattern, that could have worked also had some time today, so I buttoned her up. tested the preamp this week, and that was working well, it also helps to tame the mud Pickup position is also key for that, neck pickup is in P position, bridge is slightly further forward than on a J. Need to have the knobs printed again, because the silver chrome paint remains sticky, even after a week and a half of drying.
  5. Yes, my wife also complimented my knob (not nearly often enough though) And, thanks! Like I said, the STL's are on Thingiverse so you can have them printed (or print them yourself). Would go for resin 3d prints, for shits and giggles I opened them in Cura to slice them for an FDM 3d print, but the preview promised something very horrible.
  6. Your "Test it on scrap first" approach is commendable! Takes a bit more effort, but you do prevent major f-ups on something you've spent a lot of time (and potentially, money) on already.
  7. Looks great! Like yourself not sold on the Warwick headstock, and also, I think it is preferable to have the tuning machines not parallel but have them taper so the run from tuning machine to nu is straight. At least, that's how I designed in my parametric model, Especially that middle string on a 3+2 headstock is often at a severe angle. Wouldn't mess with a compound scarf joint, just make it straight and solve it in the volute, as long as your glue joint is neat, the extra line is not too noticeable (and you could always put veneer on the back of the headstock)
  8. Posted two versions of the knobs (without the "V" en "T" on top) on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6658889
  9. The summing amp needs a bit of work, so I think I'll order a revised board after the holidays. I have done a home etched board for this 15 years or so ago, and I seemed to recall it was working properly, but that is not the case. And after simulation it turned out that it did indeed need a resistor on the collector of Q1 to ground. So I did a bit of creative 3d SMD soldering (photo to follow) and now it does indeed work. This a 5.6k resistor mounted on it's end, and then a smd transistor precariously fitted on top. who says you can't prototype with smd Summing_amp_PCB.pdf Summing_amp_SCH.pdf
  10. So, the FET input (schematic from Nuts&Volts article by Ray Marston "FET principles & circuits" https://www.nutsvolts.com/magazine/contributor/ray_marston) works, it does need selection of the FET, because of the variability between FETs of the same type, so I now have one channel which overloads quicker than the other, need to replace that FET. Basspre_PCB.pdf Basspre_SCH.pdf
  11. A bit more routing, wet sanding, another coat of yellow, two coats of clear, and that's it. Finishing definitely is something I am learning. Assembled, and did a few iterations for the shape of the pickguard, finished one variant (mounting holes still to do)
  12. That's not needed. If you want, just the post the plans here when they are ready. Just interested.
  13. Very cool project! Inspiration to learn how to play: https://youtu.be/zVyEPAMpwDc?si=uCBTNaK5W3sCFqvm
  14. I have done a few other preamps but I couldn't get my design for a dual lowpass filter to work, so I bought one from Underhill. It is a pretty clever modular design, and that gave me an idea for my own preamp. So these are the first modules, a discrete buffer (jfet input) and a discrete summing amp (actually the circuit of a Moog 907 fixed filter bank module). so these are two buffers for a two pickup instrument, and a summer. There are some through hole components, but most is SMD on the underside of the boards.
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