Saber

Why is it not a good way? Isn't the idea to have the nut act as another fret so that it is practically level with the other frets. Of course a minimal clearance is left just to guarantee that the nut isn't below fret level. Or am I missing something here?

In addition, if your fingerboard radius is a lot larger than the bridge radius, your lo-e and hi-e strings will be closer to the fretboard and buzz more. You can improve the situation by shimming the bridge saddles to raise those individual strings. Then you should be able to lower the bridge a bit more.

Is it an Original Floyd Rose or a licensed model?

Don't you mean gold leafing? Artist supply stores sell that.

I don't know how much of this is hype, but we're hearing a lot about the AXON which uses a new improved method of guitar-to-MIDI conversion.

While you can't play harmonics (natural, pinched or otherwise) you wouldn't need those on a sax sound for example. But you can get great tracking of all of the other nuances like string bending, vibrato, hammer-ons and pull-offs. For example, I played this little sax solo over a backing track using a cheap outdated GR-09 synth. Imagine what you can achieve with recent technology. GR-09 Sax Solo

Here's a quote from the Warmoth website: "Strat® necks will fit Tele® bodies but show a gap at the corners. Tele® necks may not intonate on a Strat® body without neck pocket modification." Here is a link to it.

I've had the exact opposite happen to me. If I put a bit more hardener, it didn't totally harden and remained rubbery. If I put a bit less hardener, it became nice and hard. And no, I didn't confuse the two tubes unless they were mislabeled. Make 2 small trial batches, one with more hardener and one with less, and see how your particular epoxy hardens.

Anybody see this yet? Freelok

I just need to find a 540P now so I can change my nick to "Power"!

Not necessarily. I got this Ibanez 540R at a chain pawnshop called COMPTANT.COM. I got it for $300CDN (around $240 US) and it even has a backstop in the trem cavity. The backstop alone can go for more on eBay than the price the whole guitar cost me. So bargains can still be found with a little luck.

A simple pre-amp with flat EQ won't cut it. You need an RIAA-type phono preamp because they have the RIAA EQ curve. To put it simply, vinyl record grooves are "cut" with very little bass which is recovered by the RIAA equalization. This article explains it.

Party pooper! I'm gonna stick a pin in your doll!

There are a couple in the 540R that I bought from a pawn shop, recently. It's only written IBZUSA on the pickup cover but from what I've read at jemsite, it's the same thing, and the measured coil resistance supports that. They're simply wired in hum-cancelling mode with the green wire to the selector switch, the red wire to ground, and the other 2 wires connected together in the pickup cavity. They sound OK and were a good idea when they were released about 25 years ago but the level drops a lot when switching from the bridge humbucker to one of those. But I'll try replacing them with Virtual 2 pickups which are a more recent model of stacked humbucker that have higher output and lower coil resistance, and are brighter. And since they have less magnetic pull due to their Alnico2 magnets (as opposed to the HS-2's Alnico5), they can be placed closer to the strings for even more output.

Well... the thing is that the pickup will pickup some of the body's vibration whether it's direct mounted or on mounting rings. Whether the difference between the two mounting methods is significant is what's debatable.

All pickups are microphonic to a certain extent, even properly potted ones.

Remove the strings on your guitar, plug it in, turn your amp on, and knock on the guitar. Then tell me whether your pickups pick up the wood vibrations. Or just muffle the strings and knock on the guitar. It won't prove whether direct mounting is better or not but the first method will prove that the pickup not only picks up string vibrations.

All I know about this system is that Frank Gambale uses it. It's on his Yamaha signature guitar.

The volume is very loud! Sorry, I couldn't resist. Each cab is around 87000 cubic centimetres. But it wasn't based on any calculations. From the different 2x12 cabs that I checked, the Mesa horizontal recto comes closest to the dimensions of my cabs, for what it's worth.

It's that simple. No electronics between the jack and the speakers. Except for very few exceptions, guitar speaker cabinets ignore Thiele-Small Parameters. BTW, great choice of speaker. I put some Gov's in these cabs that I built recently: Pic1, Pic2, Pic3, Pic4, Pic5.

You could use the ON-OFF-ON switch for both coil splitting and as a kill switch if you wire it like THIS. Position 1 would Kill the signal, position 3 would split the coil, and the middle position would have no effect.

That depends on how you want it to look, especially if there is no scratchplate.

If you want to use a pickup with staggered poles and don't want to flip it around, some companies such as DiMarzio will provide left-handed staggered pickups on special order for no extra charge.

BBE uses aluminum knobs like the ones on their opening page. I don't know if that's what you're looking for, or if you can get some from them as spare parts.