zandro
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Everything posted by zandro
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It doesn't matter how the string mounting holes are positioned, as long as the bridge is in the right spot. Those Schecter models you're referring to simply have string-thru-body mounting instead of stopbars.
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Actually, that's a good point. I noticed the bulky heel, but figured I'd reduce it should I decide to order that neck. But I guess knowing where the truss rod ends would be helpful so I won't end up cutting too far.
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Whoa, 45 degree headstock angle? Yeesh! 17 degrees is the largest headstock angle I've ever heard of. Typical neck angle would be 2-4 degrees but could go up a little more, depending on your bridge height.
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Yeah, I had planned on that. Thanks for the advice though, I appreciate it. Okay, now another question. Assuming that I get this through-body neck, I need to make some wings. I was planning on getting walnut ala the Rickenbacker 650D, but anyone have other suggestions? I'm looking for a darker colored wood as I would like to have the natural look. On a neck-through, does the wing material affect sound much?
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Sweet! Looks like I might finally have something to start a project on. Now if I could only find a 2"x6"x24" piece of walnut.
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Hey all, I was wondering if anyone here has used one of Stewmac's through-body necks as a starting point. 24 Fret Through-body Guitar Neck It looks like an ideal platform for a beginner like me to start building on, and I'm anxious to actually get something I can work on. Mostly I'm just wondering about the quality of the neck and what else might need to be done to it. [besides the obvious things .. for example, will I have to level and polish the frets?] Any help you all could give me would be great. Thanks.
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what's your age?
zandro replied to jacksonsxrule's topic in Site Feedback, Issue Reporting and Test area
I'm 22. -
I have absolutely no expertise in .. well, pretty much anything, so feel free to totally ignore this opinion. But have you checked out the Hipshot trems? I've read good things about them - particularly, instead of a knife edge, they pivot on bearings so they're supposed to be really smooth and help maintain stability. I'd think one of those plus some locking tuners might give you some pretty good whammy capabilities without being as cumbersome as a Floyd. Just my $.02.
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Yeah, sounds to me like you really got screwed on that one. I'd definitely complain/try to get a refund.
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The masses have spoken. To eBay it goes. Thanks everyone.
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Those are super-cool. I wish the seller had black bats, I think they'd look great in a maple fret board.
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I've got this Squier standard Strat that I don't play. It's just hanging on my wall gathering dust. The thing sucks. The pickups suck, the action is terrible, the frets buzz up and down the neck, any use of the trem causes the strings to go way out of tune, etc. Typical Squier. [it's not even a "good" Korean model, this one was made in Indonesia!] I was thinking of disassembling it, selling everything but the body, and basically building a new Strat just using the existing body. The question is, is it worth it? Is the body made of a decent enough wood to sound good if I replaced everything? [According to the Squier site, it's made of agathis.] Or should I just use it to draw some patterns and then get rid of it as a whole guitar? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Schaller Locking Tuners, alternative.
zandro replied to Jehle's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
I thought it was called "Thus Spake Zarathustra." -
It appears the masses have spoken. Jazz it is, then.
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As soon as I get the money [next week or so] I'm going to be replacing the stock pickups in my LP with some Seymour Duncans. I've chosen the SH-5 Duncan Custom for the bridge, but I'm having trouble deciding on the neck. I was thinking the SH-2 Jazz, but thought I'd get some input from you guys. Basically, I'm looking for the tone of the stock pickup [Gibson's 490R] without the muddiness. Any suggestions?
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The body on my LP is about 17" long [measuring from butt to neck] and about 13" wide at the widest point. At the edge, it's about 1 3/4" thick. It's hard for me to measure the thickness at the highest point of the carved top with the little tape measure I'm using, but I believe [and please someone correct me if I'm wrong] that the maple cap is 1/4" thick [so that total thickness of the maple + mahogany before carving is 2"]. If that is the case, looks like the maple gets carved down to a negligible thickness at the edges of the body. The neck is about 21 1/2" long, but that's not a very accurate measurement, just a rough one. So, I'd just make sure that you add 1-2" to those measurements to have plenty of wood to work with. As far as pictures go, I'll try to get some this week for you.
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Yeah, Wes is right, a 2" deep piece would work fine. The problem runs into locating the pickup selector switch. From what I can tell, there's a channel cut into the mahogany that goes from the pickup selector switch to the pickup cavities, to the control cavity. This channel is then covered by the maple top. This sort of construction could cause some problems if using a one species body. However, if one were to locate the pickup selector switch near the volume and tone controls, it wouldn't be as big of a problem. Of course, even in that case, care would have to be taken to avoid the studs for the bridge and tailpiece when drilling a hole from the pickup cavities to the control cavity. All in all, sounds a lot easier to use a maple top, at least IMHO.
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I thought it might be kinda neat to build a Strat shaped guitar out of a lighter wood, like alder or maple, and have darker wood [ie. mahogany] polka dots. It would be a pain to build, it would probably sound like crap [due to all the glue] and would be silly looking, but it'd be unique and fun.
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Yeah, the LP Studio has the same construction as most LPs. Mahogany body + neck, carved maple top. The fingerboard on the Platinum finish [as well as Alpine and Classic White] is ebony, though it's rosewood on the other finishes. The reason the body looks like one chunk of a single type of wood is because the finish is solid. Were it a translucent finish, you could tell where the maple and mahogany are joined. I happen to have a Studio model [that's soon to become quite a bit more than stock] that I could take some pictures/measurements of for you when the time comes.
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Totally sweet looking axe! Nice work!
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D'oh! Excuse me, forum, I'm an idiot. Now, move along, nothing to see here.
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Hi all .. my first post here, glad to find this place. I plan on starting my first project in the next month or so. I'd like to build a Musicman Stingray styled 4-string bass. I plan on getting a Moses neck and just building a body, so I can gradually work myself into this new hobby. My question is, I'm not exactly sure where to find a body blank. I'd like to use poplar, ash, or alder, preferably one-piece. I've heard one-piece body blanks are hard to come by, so I'd settle for a two-piece. Are there sources on the net for body blanks that I just haven't found yet? Any idea what to look for when it comes to searching the local area? Thanks!