low end fuzz

is that red thing behind the trem arm a light or knob or reflection?

taking it back to simpilest form; cover it with transparent tape; cut and remove from around your logo ;paint, remove masked area and clearcoat thick enough to eliminate any leveling issues

for all reasonable purposes............failure.

the only problem with that is its inlaid into the face, as opose to the stopping it from going over the edge; i still might try that method with a shellac or something, but my concern is it creeping thru the joint; more test pieces i suppose; just dealing with 2 considerably light woods, hiding blotchy colours would be impossible; but thank you

i htought go bars were bendable plastic, and they seemed pretty expensive? ive only seen people use rubber bands for putting on binding? i think jaycee is showing me what a little creativty and purseverence can accomplish with those weight plates! good stuff! grant

soaked test piece all day (3 hrs. i was in shop) sitting on melamine drying;

so soon i'll be inlaying a piece of lacewood into alder; id really like to give the l.w. some red to it; but with out runnong all over the alder; my plan is to soak the l.w. prior to gluing in (but after shaping) drying ;gluing in ,and then sanding flush; my plan is to use water based analine dyes; because thats what i have, i also have stains but i would almost assume the dye would go deeper; could be wrong, gonna try both! is there any impregnating technigues i can use to penetrate the wood so it gets past the layers that will be sanded away? i don't have acsess to any crazy vacuum pumps or anything; and i would rather not have any colour than send it away or use acrylic impregnated wood, btw; thank you much grant

SICK!!!!

what about using the ceramic rectangular pickup without exposed poles? i mean if your that worried about it; i installed one where the 2 middle strings were completly off (weird spacing and i only accounted for my outside strings); and there is no difference in sound that i can hear from string to string.

i really hope you didnt let that scratch slide ):

sweet, simple, and very neat A+

i buffed it out on a pbass; i still need to get some shots; its not an amazing mirror sheen; but it is smooth and reflective; i wont do it again though that far; i used the 3 rubbing compounds (stewmac) and polish; and have serious sand thru problems in certain spots due to the lack of a real build up of solids; though steel wool 1-0000 with a polish gave a very transparent reflectant 'satin' sheen (gloss w.o.p.)

overkill?

+1 this is possibly the best well rounded finish for beginners and everyone else looking for those particullar results; its no super hard nitro finish but it can handle normal careful use and is very easy to repair pick and button scratches.

whats the timber?

yes; very nice indeed; whenever i hear 'strat' i roll my eyes a bit; but thats stunning!

this is like waiting for some crazy movie to come out!

one of your definate problems in my opinion is your selection of finish; its making the sharpie run because of the HUGE amount of thinner in aerosol cans; definately try shellac (scrap first) lay down whatever finish between the marker and wood of course, but brush on a little shellac; resisting to rub; and just make sure that you dont but it from the home depot; or look extra carefully that there isnt wax in there. good luck

i really think you need to clarify the 'question(?)' more; i think i understand; about the angles; i seen someone make templates of the burst; like a crude outline of the body, 2'3 of them gradually geting bigger. they were raised from the body, so some of the paint would get under the template, making for a smoother transition; with most edges being painted, the angle your hitting is like aiming for the edge of the body, like spraying the corner; and if this isnt any help; go to the tutorials and google; they might not tottally spell it out for you , but theres alot of pics and write ups that you should be able to put something together.

my headstocks recently have had somewhere between 5-8 deg. angle, but theres a drop off (step down); ala fender which puts them in the 15 deg range; i like it alot!

this project was tottally a 'scrap wood specimen' and an exercise in working outside my comfort zone of bass guitars; but it is my style; its a far way from perfection and even further from impressing a wide variety of people on aesthetics, i am mostly proud of the work in progress opose to the final overall project, because it does look like a bad acid trip; but it catapulted me into the mindset that building 'guitars' is kinda fun, but the reward is definatly watching this guy shred cause my fat fingers suck at the twangers! thanx for the positive feedback and constructive critisism; im thinking of a strat project with same pickgaurd idea but toning down the wood selection ;so you have to be real close to see its wood and not a paint job/plastic guard; maybe a walnut body with maple inlay; thanx again ;this was an awsome month for builds; good job kenny; thats a winner for sure!

id use tung oil; real tung oil; the wood that needs to be treated will absorb the oil and seal itself; where the ebony will bleed it out and rubbed away.

i prefer wood nuts on my basses; i like the look the sound and how its always at my disposal; but for longevity i could never see them 'outlasting' bone or graphite; so pick your battles.

Name: GSG> Grant's Spalted Guitar This is a spalted body SG with curly maple 'wings' and padauk and bloodwood catseyes; it has a myrtle inlaid pickguard that encloses the 5" tennon set neck; what i call the impossible inlay is my logo (its a bassclef so has no business on the front) inlaid into the carve with birdseye maple and accents burned in the tailpiece is olivewood, and the cavity cover is maple with an olivewood veneer; the pickup rings are maple w/ p.h. and some kind of funky wormy veneer 1 piece maple neck asain ebony board with maple p.h. and black veneer lams between the maple and ebony 2 duncan humbuckers wired straight to the switch with a universal tone this was a big challenge that was mostly conquered w/ epoxy and super glue enjoy heres some more http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i23/lowendfuzz/christmas/

so after 14 years of not posting anything, and the finishing (aka gallons of epoxy and hot stuff being soaked into like a spoonge) i have got it finished; so i'll post 1 pic here with the photobucket link and i'm gonna throw it in gotm so i can post multiple pics at once; its the start of the month and theres already amazing content on there, so im not holdin my breath lol! http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i23/lowendfuzz/christmas/