CrazyManAndy

How do these things work? For some reason I just can't wrap my head around it. Of course, having little woodworking experience probably has something to do with it. CMA

Welcome! But yeh, the whole point is to show the build in progress. As long as you take pics along the way to post when your done, that is cool. Hope it all goes well! CMA

Very nice lapsteel Quarter! CMA

Poly cures much faster than nitro, but I wouldn't let cure time be my ruler for judging finishes. An important part of finishing is not rushing it. I don't really like poly either, and I think nitro looks better. Plus, nitro isn't as hard to get off if you decide to refinish it; poly is like glue. In any case, it isn't the end of the world if you end up not liking whatever you choose. The nice thing about a finish is that it can be redone until you like what you see (or you get tired of refinishing it ). CMA

I assume you are referring to this: http://www.setchellguitars.co.uk/ant/blog/?page_id=10 You are correct. First he routed the necessary neck angle into the top and then used it as a guide to route the angle in the neck pocket. CMA

You should be able to find tru-oil at a gun shop. Just as an FYI, DEFT (and similar products) is not poly. They are nitro. The feeling is really irrelevant for the body though, I would think. You could just do tru-oil on the neck for the feel. CMA

Tru-oil will pop the grain. The boiled linseed oil/DEFT will as well. Probably both about the same. It is really a matter of which you prefer. Tru-oil will give a satin like feel and will probably be less glossy. DEFT will give a harder (more protective) and glossier finish. Me personally, I would opt for a BLO/DEFT finish rather than Tru-oil. I like the idea of a longer lasting/harder and glossier finish. That and I don't mind the feel of lacquer (which some don't like). But, my opinions aside, I think you're good either way. And just to let you know, here is what cbaker said about that neck: "It is about 8 coats of linseed over a couple of days. I would wipe on a good coat, let it dry for about 3-4 hours and repeat till it seemed to not take anymore, then I put a lot of Bill's nitro clear on it." He is referring to ReRanch clear, but you can use DEFT. And once you get done spraying the clear, you only have to wait a month and then you can wet sand and polish it. Here is a nice tutorial on spraying lacquer: http://reranch.com/101a.htm CMA

or just turning the tone pot down a bit, to the same level as a 250 k Yeh, as my friend ChrisK advised me over at the guitarnuts forum, a 500k pot is like a 250k pot that goes to "12". Once you turn the pot down to about 8, you're at the top end of the 250k pot range. CMA

I'll have to agree with the other guys on a Zelda theme, especially since I'm such a huge fan of the series. CMA

I can tell you, it will stand out with a stained translucent finish. Here is a very nice example: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...st&p=308544 and http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...st&p=309363 Here is an example of the boiled linseed with clear coat (props to cbaker over at the reranch forum): Unfortunately, I don't have any pics of a Tru-oil finish. I can tell you though, it won't be as glossy as lacquer and it isn't as tough. The main advantage to oil finishes is the ease of application and a nice feel, which is why they are mostly done on necks. But if you don't clear coat, I would recommend Tru-oil only, because it is the toughest finish and you can get a better gloss with it than you can with other oils. CMA

Wow, those are some really nice boards (I'm a sucker for maple fretboards). If I had a 25" in the works, I grab those in a heartbeat. I hope whoever gets them makes good use of 'em. CMA

I guess you could just do a natural finish, but I never thought flamed maple tops looked that great just cleared over. I think you should go with a translucent burst. That would be rockin', IMHO. But if your going oil, I would use Tru-oil. Or you could use something like boiled linseed oil and clear coat over it. CMA

Speaking from what I've read, Limba is very similar to Mahogany, but with a few differences. Limba seems a little brighter/clearer, with more resonance/overtones, and a bit more bite or punch. Take from that what you will. Your neck wood is going to be important as well, probably more so. CMA

From what I hear they are really nice. I'll probably buy some cheap ones to and do a comparison. CMA

My local dealer sales 8/4 South American mahogany for about 8.25 a bdf. Less depending on volume. CMA

Thanks for the encouragement. About buying some tools only as I need them, seems like sound advice to me! I certainly hope I can make this a lifelong hobby as well (is there a better hobby? ). CMA

Hey Rich, Binding tape, glue, sanding paper, etc. are all going on the tool/supply list I'm making. You're right about the shipping. My total went up after I noticed I left a few things I left off so it will be over 500 including shipping. I bet the tools will cost more than 500, but as you said that will vary on what I get/need. I'll know for sure once I finish the list. The neck blank I am getting from a local supplier I found and they have really good prices. They don't have Alder, unfortunately, so I'll probably get that online. Thanks for the input Rich, I really appreciate it. mattharris75, I'll brace myself for the prices aidlook, That is a great link! Thanks for the resource. CMA

Yeh, I'd check out their website. And you might invest in one of these: http://www.rsguitarworks.net/rsstore/produ...3&language= CMA

Hey biliousfrog, I see what your saying about the bulk stuff. I know it does work out cheaper in the long run, but I probably won't be doing much building for a little while after this first project because of previous engagements. And money is tight right now as it is. If I do need some more fretwire, I don't mind ordering a little more. And I do plan on making my own nut, so I'll buy a bunch of blanks (since I'll probably screw a few up). On the electronics, I will check out my local stores to see what I can get cheaper. Thanks for the tip! CMA

Nice idea for the inlays. And as far as the body plan goes, I don't mind paying 15 bucks for a nice plan. About the electronics, you just reminded me of something I forgot to put on the list. A DPDT on-on-on switch. My plan is this: http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b357/Cra...101/3x3Tele.gif The physical orientation of the parts is not how I'll have it, but the electronics are the same. That diagram will give me: "+" = parallel "x" = series toggle up, T-switch selects B+M, M+N, N+B toggle in center position, T-switch selects B, M, N toggle down, T-switch selects BxM, M, NxM Props to JohnH over at the guitarnuts forum for the idea. CMA

Hey guys, Well, it looks like I may be able to start my first project ever in the coming weeks. I've spent the last year soaking in info and what not and have learned a lot, especially from you guys. Its been hard though, since I have really no woodworking experience or electronics experience and thus no frame of reference. But I think it'll work out fine. Anyway, I have a project list here that I'm pretty sure has everything on it. I haven't made a tool/supply list yet, this is only a material list. So here ya go: CMA's Super Tele Modifications: AANJ 3x3 Tele Wiring Mod - ------------------------------------------- *Tonerider* Tonerider Pickups; Set of 3 (TeleB/P90/TeleN) - 120.00 ------------------------------------------- *GuitarFetish.com* Knobs - 10.00 Tele jack cup - 8.95 Solder - 2.39 Electronics Wire (red) - 7.95 String tree - 3.95 String Ferrules - 6.95 Strap locks - 10.45 Tuners (probably Wilk. EZ-LOK) - 26.95 ------------------------------------------- *Stew-Mac* Copper Tape - 10.00 Nut - 3.30 Hot Rod truss rod - 16.00 Neck mounting ferrules - 10.31 Neck mounting screws (x4) - 3.32 Fretwire (Medium/Higher; 2ft x 3) - 9.63 Binding - 4.75 Megaswitch T-model - 15.95 DPDT On-On-On switch - 12.53 ------------------------------------------- *Electronics* (specialtyguitars.com) 500K pots (x2) - 10.00 Hovland Cap (.047uF) - 11.90 Shielded Wire (4ft) - 3.60 ------------------------------------------- *Guitar Parts Central* Tele Bridge (6-saddle) - 25.24 ------------------------------------------- *Wood* Alder Body blank - 45.00-50.00 Flamed maple neck blank - 7.00 Fretboard (pre-slotted, radiused; Flamed maple) - 10.00-15.00 ------------------------------------------- *Finishing Supplies* ReRanch Sanding Sealer - 8.95 ReRanch Nitro Color (Aerosol; Black) - 15.95 Deft Nitro Clear Coat (Aerosol; 12 oz.) x 3 - 35.97 ------------------------------------------- *MIMF* Telecaster Plans - 15.00 ------------------------------------------- *Total* approx. $477.00 I'm probably looking at around $500 including shipping. The price may vary though, depending on an possible changes and if I get some stuff locally. So any suggestions? I estimate tool expenses to be roughly the same. I'm am having a touch of trouble deciding what color scheme to go with. I was originally going to go with this: http://www.thewho.net/whotabs/schecter.htm (the black schecter) but I also like this: http://mcnach.com/gearpics/Guitars/tele/Telecaster2.jpg What do you guys think? Oh yeh, one last thing. I'm trying to decide on inlays on the fboard. Probably either no inlays or black dots? CMA

I know of a lot of people who use warmoth products with great results, so yea. A lot of people say Allparts makes a good neck as well. CMA

I tell you what, pukko! That three pickup git you made has to be the single most classy guitar I have ever laid eyes on. I think it deserves to be put into production. CMA

Here ya go: I can't remember who gave it to me, but it was somebody on this forum. So credit goes to them, whoever it is. CMA

I have no idea, but I might as well give it a shot. The first pic...a mahogany? The second pic...I'm not really sure, reminds me of koa or limba. CMA