Desopolis

+2 I also use the square back but the neck is also finished tapered.

I guess you could always make a foot switch for it, but it would be slightly complicated, and in the end I doubt you would think it that much faster. what kind of guitar do you play? for a strat if it were that much of an issue, you could always move the Volume pot down one, remove one of the tone pots. in the Volume pot location put a simple 2 way on/off kind of switch(gibson round style to fit the hole) then it would be changable with a up/down stroke(although alittle closer to the bridge) but would be pretty freaking fast.. PERSONALLY my hands are big enough that i can usualy grab the 5 way with my pinky or at least flick it

I cant seam to find a pic of it, I found tiger maple but I dont think thats the same thing.. I havent seen/heard much on this one... im Intrigued.

I used padauk for my Tele style neck(was part of a lam) its a nice wood, a bit waxy sometimes and the pores are a decent size(about the same as mahogany) only issue with it is that its UV sensitive, so if you dont keep it in a case during downtime(or at least out of direct light) the Vibrant red will fade to a more brown color. I read that bloodwood doesnt fade, but I cant confirm that. the dust wasnt worse then any other wood ive worked with, just much more visible, and can stain clothes a nice pink color..

a TX one needs to be setup some time! alot of active members here are from the lone star state!

wow a bit harsh. I don't think anyone feels he OWES it to them, but after he spent all the time figuring out, designing, building, and documenting his project. You'd assume he has it backed up besides the website. If his website went down, and he still had it backed up I see no harm in asking him about it. I would also be willing to put it all on my webspace so others can view it until he decides to get it all up an running again I asked about the fret slotting jig before I made mine, to see others opinions about it. As well as see methods used. I came up with one, built it and explained how I did it. If I hadn't looked it up I would of started blind, and eventually made the same thing, but a head start is never a bad Idea. the Jig is interesting, and as I see it, pointless. I guess on a guitar with no neck angle it would give you a number behind what the strings pull tension wise, or how much more warped it was from last time. Personally, I use the action as my gauge. But to each his own, if you build it, people will buy it I guess.. Let me know when they build a suspended kit with sliding rails to check string action until then I'll use one of these:

out of curiosity, what about the cordless setups? if your noticing so much from a cable, how bad are they?

is the neck pre shaped?

or click the layout button on the bottom, expand the plot window to cover the 8.5x11 page, right click the line, properties>scale set it to 1:1 then cut and paste!

yeah NP Fine Lumber and plywood http://www.finelumber.com its by where Rundberg and Cameron Rd. meet. they have alot of nice hardwoods as well(Afr/Hond mahogany, Paduk, wenge, zebra, etc)

did the CA leave a glossy shine when leveled? can you post or send me a pic? Id love to see it. if you cant upload, my email is hat1324@yahoo.com

ha! will do.. I want him to take lessons, Im a terrible teacher sometimes, but Im trying.

yeah it was a weird eye thing.. looks good!

hes on here, I backed up his strat tutorial. from what I understand he didnt have the time for it much anymore and when it came to renew he decided not to.

I just moved back to Texas and I've been staying with my folks for a few weeks and my little brother has obsessively been following me around whenever I play my guitar.. He dragged out a squire strat that I forgot my step-Dad bought YEARS ago and never touched. Since then hes been hounding me to teach him stuff. So I took the guitar completely apart and explained how everything worked, and why, and then quized him. We then went and picked up strings for both guitars and I taught him how to restring and tune the guitar. Then I taught him the first few bars of the star spangled banner, and how to read tab. 2 days later he has it memorized and can play it halfway decent. He still needs to learn pitch a bit but its freaking me out how fast he learns. Now I learned on my own using the internet and tab when I was 16, and frankly I did it the wrong way. I took lessons at 20 to help me get over the hump I was having and I will probably be taking them again to keep expanding. But for him I want him to start learning correctly, that way he never has to take that step backwards. Im thinking of starting him off with basic chords, E, A, C, D, G, Am, and a basic power chord. Then with a simple pentatonic scale and a exercise that I still use today. What else? Alternate picking? strum patterns? I know all of is going to take time and tons of practice, but Id kinda like to get a lesson plan down..

grey? witch kind of ebony are you guys using? the stuff Im getting has brown streaks if any...

i totally skiped the 1" part for body blank, where are you finding swamp ash? I had HUGE problems finding a good source besides the one i mentioned...

Great info and advice guys. I do know of a lumber yard on the other side of the county that has nice kiln dried wood available by the bd ft. They have a lot of varieties from what I hear and cater to woodworkers and furniture builders. I'll have to check them out. Thanks again, this has been a good lesson! where are you located? and Im the same way as Mattia, figured woods are harder to find local as most furniture makers dont require the figure I want...

actually for a body he'll want to start with 8/4 as its closesest to 2" planed. Most mills charge alot more then a cabinet maker as well to do things like plaining. and SWAMP ash is not easy to find at all. Sometimes its also called Black ash. What your thinking of is regular white ash. witch is from a different type of tree or different location of the cut, generally is heavier. Although not a bad body wood, it wont have the same properties as the swamp ash hes looking for.

Im thinking the same thing.. When I lived in Indy I could buy a large block that after resawing I would have uite a few boards of solid black. Ive heard that the dye used to make them solid black can rub off onto your hands while playing, and thats really what im wanting to avoid

I was reading on LMI that standard ebony is going to become harder to get and more expensive. Also Stew-Macs preslotted board seamed more expensive to me. anyone know if there is alot of truth to this? I like using the solid black boards and according to LMI I'll have to start using dye in the board, and that I dont really want to do..

there are tons of places on the internet that cary different sizes of wood assuming you dont want a maple top you want to start close to 2" planed iF at all possible. you can also get things like Alder, Poplar, Basswood, Mahogany, Walnut, White Ash, etc from a local hardwood dealer and make your own blank from joining and planing. swamp ash is much harder to find at a local level, even when calling Louisiana for it. here are a few wood sources I know people on here recommend: http://galleryhardwoods.com/ http://www.gilmerwood.com/ and after searching online this is IMO the best source for swamp ash, they carry much more then what they list online so call them if you have specific needs: http://www.globalwoodsource.com/SWAMP-ASH.php

+1 on finding a local source.. the place by me is kiln dried for 2-3 a board ft and has TONS of alder. make your own body blanks or have a cabinet maker join/plane the piece for you.

no it doesnt HAVE to be, thats why Id like to see it straight up, I cant tell if I like it that way or if its just a optical illusion..

my point is that just because you have something on paper doesnt mean people will take it as groundbreaking. There are TONS of designs that were different, but if no one ever built them, they wouldn't mean anything.