Jump to content

biliousfrog

Established Member
  • Posts

    955
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by biliousfrog

  1. very bad...floyd on a banjo?...I don't think so
  2. http://maps.live.com/ Google earth is very clever but this is awesome. Some of the coverage is still a bit sketchy but much better than google plus you can look at views of your home (which is what you'll do first) from N,S,E,W & install the 3D plugin & view (mostly US) cities in 3d! [EDIT] sorry, wrong place please move if needed
  3. LMAO... &, not quite as funny but.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aX0bcZjnjaM...ted&search=
  4. That's come up really nice. So sorry that you've had such a hard time of it, I expect a lot of the strange finishes that you were describing as you sanded were due to the veneer on top, I wouldn't have expected that. I'm glad that more experienced members have now joined the thread, you should be able to get a nice finish on that if you're patient & follow the advice that they give. As for spending more than you paid for the body on tools etc......welcome to the world of guitar building! It isn't usually cheaper than buying something off the shelf but it is much more rewarding. When planning for your first projects (& there will be more ) you need to decide on how to buy tools & equipment. For this project you could have bought a sander with various grits to remove the paint & finish the body, it might have been a little more expensive than sanding by hand but it would be less work & you'd have the tool for next time. Sometimes going down the cheapest route can be a false economy but I understand that it isn't always an option.
  5. Warmoth has some general properties for musical applications on most tonewoods
  6. ok, my friend & I have just come up with the perfect stage show for this guitar.... The lights dim A spotlight rests on a weary traveller drifting across a dry-ice filled stage in a small boat From beneath the misty water a womans hand rises, holding a mighty sword The man reaches for the sword, his fingers grasp the handle [flash of lightning, rumble of thunder] He holds it aloft & then, after a short pause..... He plays an E5, Piro's go off, the band kicks in, the crowd goes wild Manowar eat your heart out
  7. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/black-8-string-bass-...1QQcmdZViewItem check out the headstock pic.
  8. I've not seen that before, mine all have standard screw holes. Is it second hand?...maybe someone's "customised" it. As for pots, I just use 250k's as recommended by Lace & as fitted by Fender. [EDIT] look here: http://images.google.co.uk/images?source=i...sa=N&tab=wi doesn't look right does it?
  9. I really like PRS guitars & would be very tempted to go that route but I'd have to say a strat. I spent several years avoiding strats & Les Pauls because of how common they are but when I was looking for a new "main" guitar about 10 years ago a sales guy got me to try a strat & I finally got it. It was what I had been looking for for years but my desperation to be different had stopped me. I've played some fairly average ones & mine isn't the best made one but it plays & sounds great. I expect that it will always be my main guitar & I can see me having it for the rest of my life. It has played in brilliantly & it feels so comfortable to play.
  10. Olympic® Interior Oil Based Stain. is that one of those stain & protect, all in one finishes designed for floors, stairs, handrails, furniture etc? If so, you're using the wrong type of stain for the effect that you're trying to achieve. Read through this article: http://www.stewmac.com/tradesecrets/bridge...e_guitar01.html it should give you a better idea of how to finish a guitar & the kind of products that you should be using. Once you've read through that, search the forums for finishing, staining, sunbursts, dyes etc...anything that is relivant to what you want to achieve. Then, if you're serious about getting a good finish & want to know what finishes will work together, buy Bob Flexnor's book on wood finishes.
  11. if you want a custom colour, I can highly recommend Auto-Paint in St Helens. They'll mix it & put it in aerosols for you, very helpful people. http://www.auto-paint.co.uk/
  12. It's not that the colours get swapped around, the colours get confused. So, in most cases, red & green will look exactly the same. If you look at these: http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/8833/coloreye.html you'll see just how difficult things can be if red & green look exactly the same. Now imagine trying to colour something green...is it going to be green or red?
  13. oh wow, I assumed that you were being scarcastic & had left some purple in the spray equipment or thinned the black too much...didn't realise that the sprayer was a person! I've known people with red/green blindness but not black, that could be awkward. Apparently Jonny Greenwood from Radiohead is extremely colour blind, his brother used to mix up his crayons as a kid & get him in trouble for creating bizarre pictures.
  14. I'm not 100% on the type of paint, probably acrylic based but yes, they'll have compatible primer & laquer. If you're feeling brave they also stock a range of pearlescent & metallic finishes. You'll find that they have a much better range & you can match the colour to any car that you might have seen.
  15. cool! I've seen the kits before but didn't know that there was a UK distributer. I've got a dead Vox swell pedal which I'd like to change into a wah...my Bad Horsie doesn't really do it for me, however, I can't find any info on the pedal & I'm worried that I might end up destroying a collectors item. I really doubt it but it would be just my luck. It is built differently to any others that I've seen & has a bizarre linkage system inside for controlling the turn of the pot which might prevent me from using the BYOC kit. Thanks for the heads up, if I ever run out of other projects I'll try out one of the kits.
  16. I love old nickel. My strat has aged brilliantly over the years & I just love the organic look of the Kluson tuners & original bridge. The pickup covers on my beaten up single-cut look nicely worn too. I often browse through Billy F Gibbons' book & get all wistful thinking about those dull grey/brown bridges & covers...& don't even get me started on his Dobro's. Despite all that, I usually use chrome on new guitars. If I can get all the hardware in nickel I will but it's quite difficult nowadays. Chrome looks nice but it doesn't age at the same rate as the rest of the guitar & can spoil it IMO. Imagine a '58 Les Paul or 60's strat with shiney chrome hardware...yuk! That's what most guitars will look like in thirty odd years. Although, I guess a lot of guitars use tougher paints now so they might not age much anyway?
  17. yeah don't trust the pictures, I ordered some cream speed knobs & they were more like custard yellow in the flesh. Something that you might consider is what I'm going to do, buy clear knobs with the black text & paint the inside white (or cream in my case).
  18. where did you get them from, somewhere in the UK?
  19. forget B&Q for paints, if you need to use a "high st" shop go for Halfords & use their car paints. They're tried & tested & will have a much larger selection.
  20. I think that you're confusing oil paints with enamel paints. You want the stuff used for model kits & hobbys not for painting pretty landscapes & nude women. You need enamel paints, not oil or acrylic.
  21. You won't get the two places to match, any overspill onto the already stained areas will make it much darker. I believe that I already went over what you needed to do in the previous post. These things can't be rushed, take your time & you'll only need to do them once. Sand the body down to bare wood. Go over the stripped body with a damp rag & you'll see whether you've got any sealer left behind because it won't get darker.Sand->Rag, Sand->Rag... Do this untill you're left with a clean body & then go through the grits until it is nice & smooth & uniform...usually about 400-600 grit. Do a final pass with the damp rag to raise the grain & then a final pass with the last grit paper you used to smooth it off again. THEN you can stain. There are much more knowledgable finishers than me on here but unless anyone else chimes in, follow the steps above. Sanding & staining has been covered soooo many times, search the forums to see how it's supposed to be done. The main thing you need to do at the moment is remove ALL the sealer.
  22. thank god for that, now that Greg's shown himself for the nasty piece of work he is I can agree whole heartedly with everything he's said Good on you for trying something different but personally I find it really ugly. If you're not sure about the design, try something else completely different. Don't attempt to tweak that one because you'll just go round in circles, try several ideas & you'll eventually settle on something that's workable & pleasing on the eye. List the functions that you require & the various measurements that are needed & then work on the pretty stuff around those constraints.
×
×
  • Create New...