angry_jeremy

hehe

I'd use Forstner bits if it were me. I don't find spade bits useful for fine work.

I've had decent luck using spray paint sold in auto parts stores for car touch-ups. Make sure to take all the old paint off and to start with as smooth a surface as you can get. Your finish is only as good as your prep. I used primer, then the colour(s) then as usually whatever clear I can get out of a big can of clear. I then do some wet sanding and finish with Meguire's buffing compounds. I use the method from Dan Erlewine's "Guitar Player Repair Guide" book. If you can get a hold of that (I've seen it at some libraries) you should get it and check out that section. It's not right by me so I can't give you exact details at the moment but that's the rough idea. I've done 3 guitars using the auto spray cans. :D

You said it!

Thanks all.

Yeah, but that would have been crazy to try and mask spraying white then black. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to do a little investigative sanding and see how the ridges feel and do more clear as needed. I'm thinking that buffing compounds (Meguire's) shouldn't be used until there is no more chance of more clear coats, or am I wrong in that assumption? Can you spray new clear over old clear that's been buffed and slimed up with compound?

Hi, I just finished painting my latest project, a RRV with a pinstripe design. http://s181.photobucket.com/albums/x289/an...nt=IMG_1108.jpg I sprayed the black first, then masked then sprayed white over top. Problem is that it took a lot of white to cover the black and there is now a noticeable ridge between the two colors. I sprayed clear on top, doing extra coats on the black areas in an effort to fill in the little troughs. Is this the best way to continue? I don't know if wetsanding, buffing, etc. will take care of the ridges or not. Any ideas? :D

So most run of the mill guitars (except maybe some vintage ones) would be poly?

Is there a way to test an unknown finish to tell what it is? I understand it's most likely to be poly or lacquer on a factory made guitar but if refinishing/touch-up were needed how could you tell? :D

Yeah, that radiused caul is what I was missing. Would you dilute the wood glue to make it wick under? Doesn't seem like the glue I use (trusty ol' Elmers) would wick anywhere.

Hey, I've got 3 or 4 frets that won't stay down on one side. They are from my first attempt at fretting and all the other frets seated nicely but these pesky buggers won't stay down. I've tried re-hammering (they just bounce back) and super glueing (hard time clamping). Is the next course of action to yank 'em and start over? Also if anyone has any decent ways of keeping pressure on a fret end while glueing they would be appreciated. It's kind of hard clamping on 2 rounded surfaces. :D

meh, intonates just fine

No problems with negativity, more like comments/feedback as far as I'm concerned

Yeah, next time I won't have the bridge so close to the bridge just for the sake of being less crowded there. Sounds good though The 'hips' got a little messed up because somehow when I was cutting the body shape one side was good and the other was a little smaller and more pointed. Since It would have looked anorexic if I smoothed out the smaller, pointier side and then cut down the fatter side I decided to just make 'em somewhere in the middle. Plays comfortably. BNichols: I made the back of the neck (the mahogany part) and bought the slotted fingerboard from StewMac Third guitar (in progress): something like Alexei Laiho's RRV but with stop tail/TOM bridge, white with a black pinstripe paintjob instead of those big solid black parts on his

Thought I'd post a few pics of my second project. Things went much better than the first one, can't learn from your mistakes if you don't make 'em First attempt at making a neck, set neck with a neck angle, splitting pickups... Specs: 2-piece mahogany body mahogany neck with pre-slotted rosewood fretboard grover mini locking tuners dunlop straploks epi pickups and other no-name hardware from a slammer explorer chrome knobs with push-pull pots (vol=high pass filter, tone=coil tap) wiring same as Joe Satriani's Ibanez models http://s181.photobucket.com/albums/x289/an...nt=DSC01018.jpg http://s181.photobucket.com/albums/x289/an...nt=DSC01015.jpg :D

I've done the tablesaw thing and was fairly pleased with it. My only complaints were that you end up having to put a long t-rod cover on your headstock if you have an angled head, and that you can't have any neck wood extending beyond the fingerboard at the body end for a long tenon. I got around the tenon issue by butting my neck HB up to the end of the fingerboard and extending the tenon underneath the pickup about 2/3 of the way under the pickup.

I dunno but if you're gonna build a real Jag then you gotta have the crazy wiring. It's part of what makes it look the way it does with all the chrome and switches. The wiring diagrams aren't hard to find either.

I saw that on a Washburn guitar maybe 8 years ago, looked pretty snazzy. It had one big cutout in the middle of the headstock, kind of like the new Floyd Rose guitars. I'm always thinking of what can be changed/improved on traditional electric body styles. Should be an interesting thread.

Yeah, first mod. Funny I didn't find anything about this type of mod anywhere else.

Hey, I just finished making a 2-wire HB into a 3-wire HB. Wanna know how? You have to go into the pickup, find the wire connecting the two sides of the beast and then hook into that. I had some Epi HB's that were off a 90's-ish Slammer Explorer that I harvested for my latest project. I wanted to be able to split the coils of the pickup and figured out that you don't need to cut the wire joining the two sides of the pickup. I had to cut the cloth wrapping/shileding stuff to get to the wire. I stripped it carefully with an exacto blade, shaving off the insulation all around until I had a small section of exposed wire. Other sites tell you to cut this but if you're just cutting one coil you don't have to. Just make a T shaped solder joint with a new wire and take that new wire to your switch. If you had access to both ends of that conecting wire, you just end up soldering them together in the end. I've read other things about cutting the connecting wire to do parallel wiring and other neat stuff but if you just want to cut out a coil all you need is a T joint

Yo, I just got a R.O. sander for Christmas and was wondering if anyone had tried any of the buffing discs that attach instead of sandpaper? Mine's a DeWalt with a 5" disc with the velcro on it. Thanks.

I used one of these kits (purple-green) on a Strat body a while back. I found there was barely enough colour to do the body, enough for 2 decent coats and the third went spattery on me. As you prolley know the clear is kind of bunk but whatever if you can toss 'er for the deft, eh? I was fairly pleased with my project for the price of the kit. :D

Well, that's the other option isn't it? That would prolley be easier since the lines I'm going to do will be like pinstripe thickness.

Hello, I want to do a paint job similar to this: http://ragdoll.metalkings.ru/Alexi-Laiho/c...o-120703-01.jpg I'm planning on doing the white part first, then some clear (2 coats?) then taping off to do the black pin-stripe-ish bits. How long should I wait before taping on the clear coats so that I don't ruin it? Thanks!

Ah, I like the model paint idea as well as the acetone. These are all things I have. I'll be trying that on some scrap as soon as I can. Thanks MzI.