HuntinDoug

Shoot me an email with your address, and what name she wants on her TR cover. I'll hook you two up.

Very cool! My daughter is almost 18 now I took her deer hunting when she was 12. She got a button buck with a crossbow. Bonding time is priceless. Your daughter will remember this time for the rest of her life.

Romaxx WD1 24 x 36

Actually, it's for both. I rough in the FB radius in the CNC. Then use the blocks to clean up & final sand the board. Several years ago I took a class on toolmaking. The project parts we made were actual machinist tools. I still use a lot of them today. The idea is for the student to have enough resources to tackle a second build if he so desires. We initially run 2 necks. If the student scraps one, there is a backup. If not it becomes a motivator for a second build. If there is time in the open lab session, we can even fret the second neck.

For some time now I have been toying with the idea of teaching a small guitar building class. A few weeks ago I finally started. I plan on calling it "Guitar Building 101 121" (one-to-one). It is an accelerated class that utilizes Cad & CNC. Twelve to fifteen, 3 hour sessions gets a student a custom guitar ready for paint, with an extra neck for a possible future build, and some radius blocks & cauls. It's a one on one "tandem" format that allows me to complete a build as I show the student how to produce a set neck guitar. The student will get to do some CNC operation, as well as a small amount of programming (depending on their level of understanding). There is also a good amount of old school hand carving as well. The only things it doesnt cover is final wiring, & paint. Here is a loose curriculum: session 1: Consultation. Design & wood choices session 2: Tool overview. Process overview & Wood prep. session 3: Neck and body glue up. Intro to Cad & CNC processes session 4: Roughing in necks, milling TR channel. Inlay design session 5: CNC and/or hand carve neck(s) Homework: Sanding necks session 6: FB slotting & Inlay (if applicable) session 7: FB radius & binding session 8: CNC radius blocks & cauls, FB glue up, & body layout session 9: Fretting session 10: CNC body (including all pup routs & neck pocket, fit & glue neck, hand carve body (if applicable) session 11: Complete hand carving body (if applicable) Homework: More Sanding session 12: Hardware installation, nut & string up, session 13: Guest teacher Dennis Rodderman covers fret level, temporary pup install, fret ldressing & crowning. session 14: Open lab session 15: TR cover, control plates, disassemble & final finish prep I am currently about 1/3 of the way through with my first student, Terry Roark. He's a friend of mine that has always wanted to build his own guitar. Tonight was session #5. Terry & I ran one of his necks on the CNC. The next session will cover slotting & inlay. Here are some pics:

Wez, RE sent

I'm not positive, but I think it's mainly ebony & rosewood that is the issue. Besides, what is the worst that can happen...the Feds shutting me down? Seriously though. email me Doug's email I will check on restrictions.

I posted some necks in the classifieds....

These necks are the Beta version of the necks I will be offering on my site in early 2012. They will be called "Rough Necks" on the website. They are straight off the CNC and still have witness marks from the 1/2 ball nose end mill. The stepover was set at .025", so they are easily sanded out. They are a comfortable "C" shape with a small flat edge. The edge is easily removed with a scaper after the fretboard is glued on. All necks have a 13 degree headstock with voloute, and sport no scarf joint. The TR channel is milled out. Headstock thickness is approx .6". Again... these are not "turn key" necks, they will require some minor hand work. Some of these have some very minor issues. All are easy fixes. I am offering these here cheap. I'm looking for feedback. If they dont sell...it's off to fleaBay. PayPal only. I prefer to ship to the lower 48 states on this batch. Later batches will go international. Email me with questions, or orders. Pick of the flat edge: All the necks from this batch are gone. I will have another batch in approx. 1 week Neck # N-8 SOLD I will miss this one Mahogany with maple accents. (also shown above) Scale = 25.5" Nut width = 1.75" Bridge width = 2.125" Heel height = 1.5" Headstock length = approx 8" x 5" Issues = A very minor "buldge" from a mid run tool change (highlighted). I wont be heartbroken if this one doesn't sell $75.00 + actual shipping Next up... Neck # N-9 SOLD Tiger maple with mahogany accents. Scale = 25.5" Nut width = 1.75" Bridge width = 2.125" Heel height = 1.5" Headstock length = approx 8" x 5" Issues = None $60.00 + actual shipping Next up... Neck # N-10 SOLD Rock maple with mahogany stripe & accents. Multi Scale = 27" / 25" Fretboard = Figured Tigerwood with faux binding Radius = 16" Nut width = 1 11/16" Bridge width = 2.125" Heel height = 1.5" Headstock length = approx 8" x 5" Issues = A very small bandsaw mark on the heel. This neck will need scraped approx .020" to meet the fretboard on both sides. $150.00 + actual shipping (comes with a plexi ABM bridge template) Next up... Neck # N-11 SOLD Mahogany with maple stripes Scale = 25.5" Nut width = 1.7" Bridge width = 2.125" Heel height = 1.5" Headstock length = approx 8" x 5" Issues = A bandsaw mark on the heel. The back contour will need sanded slightly more than the other necks. It is also slightly mis-indexed, so the stripes are not evenly spaced. What can I say...it's the first one I ran . Would be a perfect neck for a painted project. $30.00 + actual shipping And lastly... Neck # N-12 SOLD Rock maple with mahogany stripe & accents. Scale = 25.5" Nut width = 1.75" Bridge width = 2.125" Heel height = 1.5" Headstock length = approx 8" x 5" Issues = A small bandsaw mark on the heel. It is also has a small void (.1" x .3") in the mahogany near the voloute. It looks like a small knot. It does not go through to the front, and is not a structural problem. Easily fixed with a back plate veneer. $40.00 + actual shipping

RE sent...

Sold to Mr. Ross

Crap!... I forgot to mail your analine dye. I have it packed up and ready to go too. I will get it in todays mail.

As some of you already know I have been ramping up for custom neck & fretboard production for some time now. Well, the time is finally here... almost. The idea is to offer necks, boards, and/or inlays to skilled luthiers who cant, or dont want to carve or inlay by hand. The necks will be graded as "standard", "premium" & "select", and will have several options. They will be offered fully fretted, unfretted, with or without a fretboard, and offered with loose inlays as well. I hope to offer things I have not seen offered by other neck makers such as faux binding fret slotting, and multi-scale "kits". On this neck the frets are cut with a .023" bit that stops .060" shy of the edge of the board creating a faux binding. The inlay options will also be graded. I have many proprietary designs such as "black mirror bullet holes" also shown on this neck: All of my necks will be made with a voloute, and without a scarf joint: So, all that being said... I need a forum member "Guinea Pig" that has been toying with the idea of a multi-scale build. I am willing to mail said "Guinea Pig" an un-radiused rock maple multi-scale fretboard "kit". The board is pre slotted with the faux binding. The plexi template has pre cut indexing holes for the single bridges available from Allparts. I have used this type of template on parallel fret builds. It is quick, and very easy. specs are: 27" / 25" scale bridge width = 2.125 perpendicular nut width = 1.6875ish Fret slots are = .023" wide and .125 deep board thickness = .375 Ok...so here is the "fine print". I would rather mail this to a skilled luthier in the lower 48 states who is planning a project that will be finished sometime in Jan 2012. In return I would like constructive feedback, and some quality finished product, or process pics. And a possible testimonial for my website (if I ever actually get it up and running). If you are serious, and interested, email me (please don't PM me). I will post when it is spoken for.

Shoot me your address...

Had a blast with this one!...Thought I'd share "Heater"... named after the Dayton Dragons minor league baseball team's mascot. 25.5" scale 22 frets Maple neck thru (no scarf joint) Alder body / maple top Ebony board Pearlessence inlays with baseball dots "Dragons Tail" headstock shape Oktober "Suckerpunch" pup with painted cover Paint by Mike Learn Build Thread Teaser video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgapWUgnTCk&feature=player_embedded

Is it 5/8" thick, or 5/16" thick?

If I am not mistaken, as long as you have a document or receipt proving the board(s) were purchased from a retailer like StewMac, you should not have any problems. The proof would fall on the company that imported the wood. Although, I have decided that from now on, if I ship a guitar anywhere outside the US, I plan on including a copy of the original receipt for the inlay materials and any exotic woods used.

Oh Yea!

My vote:

Well.... Got it back from Mike Learn. Spent this morning leveling frets. Now I just need to assemble, wire & setup.

If you cant find what you need, shoot me an email. I have several taps & wrenches. I'd be glad to mail one to you as a loaner.

What...no trussrod? JK Seriously, I've painted aluminum before, but I've never glued wood to aluminum. What's the process?

Yep

I always use a dremel after the tang nippers. If you have a dremel you can always use a small pair of nips ($2.49 at Harbor Freight: Link ) Then hit it with the dremel. It will take longer, but should work fine.