StreamLine

i posted similar questions before, and you dont need more than one truss rod really....... if you glue multiple piece together, reversing the grain, for the neck. its all the same really, though supplies are more limited, in terms of pickups and bridges, and even fingerboards (if not wide enough).

i couldnt get titebond in this friggin country! nobody's ever heard of it! and i've tried like 5 stores..... ....... so had to settle for the glue the recommended me i'm quite concerned about them bubbling up again Drak, but there's nothing i can do if they do, and i might as well try to finish.... finish wise, no idea yet. might use black dye and orange translucent or blue translucent paint. or varnish mixed up with cellulose thinner. i have no idea yet...... i ahve about 15 70mm x 70mm offcuts of the maple left, so i'll have plenbty to experiment on. but i'm sooooo hoping the veneer doesnt bubble back up. if it did, i'd cry

in my experience, basswood is a great wood, with only one negative feature - its quite soft. great tone and sustain make up for that though.

right, well i did decide to cut out the cavities....... then it kinda got better, and i decided to glue the other half on.... then cut that out...... and well http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/attac...&postid=1066152 this aint perfect, but for the first try i think it aint bad the other side bumped up in places, but these also mysteriosuly disappeared after i cut the cavities out....... now i've put the body back under some weights, but only just in case. i'm very happy now actually.... though thanks for the ironing advice! so am i the luckiest bugger on the planet earth or what?

AAAARRRRRRGGGHHHHH i had it clamped with about 10kg's of weight for 3 hours and it STILL did that to me. is there anything i can do? maybe wet the high spots, and somehow put them down? or just ripping off the top? i really cant afford a new one aaaaaah

Schaller's are fabulous. they hold up as well as locking nut would (i got an OFR for a bridge on this guitar!)

sorry about the swearing...... carved top sounds a great idea........ BUT 1) the way i made the CAD model, the top half is too thin to be made into a carved top 2) carving it properly would be very hard - not just straight forward chamfering of surfaces! 3) putting knobs onto a carved top would be a pretty big task, making everything flat, with no holes, etc..... 4) the machnine cuts in passes, which would would be able to see fairly easily.... hence it would be a jagged, not a carved top and au3078, i was not aware that ProD is a free version of ProE...... i'm a noob regharding the types of software, etc..... but i can use it here's a pic of the original design on paper..... i tried to copy the LP shape to an extent, and this i just couldnt achieve on the CAD (and i think the drawn version looks better) i aslo did some testing on materials (modelling foam and wax) wax (with quick mock up model) foam (rear end of.......... model) today i have melted the wax into correct sized blank, (260 x 200 x 20) - pretty big!, and tomorrow will set the machine to cut it....... hopefully it doesnt muck up, as the cutting is a 5 hour job on this machine (its a Dahlgren 2000)..... and well, i hope it doesnt make any errors

yeah i guess, my i get carried away in my thoughts, and dont always cathc up with typing; in case everyone did not get just what i was on about, i also offered to do CAD tutorial, if there is enough demand, etc EDIT: i still do not make sense in the first sentence. oh dear this must be some sort of a disease

Wes, maybe you should read with a little more care

heh, thanks guys renabilstic - thanks for your comments- please do not apologize, if anything i WOULD liek you to flame my design as long as long as you explain wy so i can do something about it...... i can see what you're saying and gotta admit i screwed up on the body shape somewhat... i can take negative feedback, i dont go in the corner and cry - i analyze it and see where i've gone wrong, so thanks CAD - ProDESKTOP - great stuff - got it free from my school! actually really great software, very powerful...... though hard to work with - i have about 20 extrusions and 30 rounding/chamfering on the top half alone.... then i export it as Stereo Lithography File, to this this software called Windmill (i think) and what it does is converts the drawing to a series of commands / passes for the CAD machine to do...... then obviously the cutting. i can see why there'd be problems with roller nut - but i couldnt be bothered to draw out the normal FR locking nut - extra hours of work but no extra marks! plus to examiners nut slots give a better visual idea anyway..... idea is far-fetched, i mean scale-wise, bridge should be positioned between the second single and bridg humbucker....... and can you imagine all the electronics and wiring and shielded needed to put piezo, MIDI and 4 active pick-ups into the same circuit? dont forget the active EQ...... Variax idea is interesting, and i am having thoughts about using the actual body design (it looks much better on my manual paper drawings..... will post pic of that later) in some sort of project....... oh and this took about a month to do actually, if there is sufficient demand, and enough people using ProD or similar software, i could do tutorial on how to use CAD and create objects, technical drawing, albums, etc - so i'd like feedback about that too; but obviously there woudl need to be more than one or two people interested but yeah its just all a bit of fun really, since no-one really knows how many strings a guitar has in my DT class anyway

this is a finished project, though not quite the usual piece of carved wood + electronics for my DT Graphic Products course i had to design something, so i naturally designed a guitar, using CAD, and this is the final result, this is how the CAM machine is gonna cut the model...... so i just wanted to get some feedback on this design and my CAD ability and well just thoughts....... ok, i chose to design a totally revolutionary guitar, that would take the guitar market by storm.... (remember since this is a design, more talk than actual implementation)...... its meant to be extremely versatile to appeal to players of ALL genres so i made a new design, based on EVH's 5150; LP; Steinberger.......... this design features an active pickup& 3 band EQ (treble/mid/bass) system (p90-single-single-humbucker), MIDI pickup, and hidden piezo bridge pickup...... hence all the knobs.... neckthru, with woods / materials of your choice..... 26 fret... roller nut; OFR with piezo saddles (note i know the scale length is hopelessly out........ but the teacher's dont know that, and it makes it look unusual, lets just assume its possible to get this kinda of weird long scale, where you can fit 2 plus octaves on a neck comfortably...) also i did simply some things, like the bridge - i made something pretty close to a real FR, but there would have been no way the CAM machine could ahve cut tah, so i had simplify it........ but basically i'd like feedback on design, imaginary electronics, etc etc also i've made it in two halves, as it is how the model wil be cut..... i have not put the two together yet as i am experiencing some problems with the CAD software, i'm gonna reinstall it on monday, so i'll post up how it looks with both sides joined...... i will also post a pic of how the machine has cut out the models on wax.... but this is all i have for now, so thoughts and opinions......... please! Roman

well D'UH. yeah of course, i cant afford to screw this up...... thats the one thing i DID know before this thread was made but ok thanks lots to everyone (once again!), i got a good understanding of what i need to do now and all my doubts and queries have been answered.... Roman

thanks a lot, but two questions: what is a 'tack rag'? '' '' 'Napthea'? can i just use a vacuum cleaner to clean the grain? i dont have an air gun...... also how much sanding? the veneer is like 1.5 mm thick...... so i'm a bit wary... how much force and for how long, eso with that 100 and 200 grits? is sanding sealer really necessary? why cant i just apply finish straightaway? thanks for your help, Roman

i LOOOOOVE the neck/body joint........ great work

oh ok, so i should just experiment with laquers, etc? but i meant, i wonna bring out the flames, and if if were to use a dye, i'd dye the wood, then lightly sand the top to uncover the flames (which are slightly higher, ay?)..... and then finish it with the translucent finish do i need to do anything like this before applying the natural coat? or will the flames just come out by themselves with a bit of polishing? i'm gonna use veneer top (i got a nice 4A one, i'll post pics if i can later) thanks, Roman

yeah i had a look, it comes right off with a bit of scratching with my nails.... phew btw its fully scalloped, so refret is really NOT an option and Wes, thanks,

i know how you'd use wood dye/stainer to bring out the flames if them doing a translucent finish, but what about if you wonna do a natural flame finish, like this one? http://www.fender.com/new_repository/jacks..._Soloist_xl.jpg what do i need to do? thanks, Roman

ok, i see........ but i think you still could help when you finish fretboards / necks, do you cover up frets? or not? can the varnish be just taken off later (as in off of frets)?

guys?

hmmm......... well its 1st of February, so maybe time for a bump? personally i'm completely in the dark about the whole deal now...... am i the only one?

will you fully shape wings first (inc contours) and glue on then, or glue on, then shape? or sort of both?

i can certainly hear how different woods sound on electric guitars, how they sustain and react to different pick-ups. but why? is the question for me - i know how pickups work, strings vibrate, creating a magnetic pitch, which moves poles in pickups, then they work as electromagnets, and the winding picks up the current along with the frequencies, which is then filtered by pots, then into amp to be amplified and made 'sound'...... i got all that, but then how can body wood affect tone? and why? sure it resonates, but it does not give off magentic current does it? so however long the mahogany sustains for in your LP, why should this matter to the pickups, since they're picking up the string's movement? i mean, how is the sound you hear when tap toning a wood get into pickups? i just dont get it........ i mean if only strings matter, then in effect a rod with a bridge fitted and pickups and strings should have the same sound as a '59 LP with same p-ups and bridge, but it clearly doesnt...... how come? i hope i have explained it clearly, so someone help me out of my confusion please! thanks, Roman

i am now finishing my guitar neck with varnish 50/50=ied with cellulose thinner, as i was advised to do by a local luthier...... its coming out great..... http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/attac...&postid=1017395 BUT i did not cover frets and the brass nut....... i thought the varnish mixture will just not affect them, stupid, i know..... anyway, frets and nut are now sticky, what do i do? what should i do to prevent th8is happening again? (i apply the stuff with a brush)......... how do i 'undo' this? or just keep the stuff on, and polish it out on frets too, if its no biggie? help!!!! Roman

as long as you measure out where the two fulcrums go, you'll be fine. thats pretty minor mod too - i went from vintage trem to OFR with just hammer and chizel! yeh just get your dimensions right and fill in the 6 screw holes slight sustain block cavity mod migh tbe needed, but that wont be anything big

what about using roller saddles?