Morben Guitars

Exactly - the Stoptail needs some solid wood to ancor into... It's important when selecting a tailpiece that you have the necessary "break" angle over the bridge to keep the strings on the saddles. This is dependant of course upon the amount of carve on the top and the height of the tailpiece. Once those are met, you can get creative with what's going to keep the strings where they should be...I've always loved the angled ebony tailpieces. Someone did one that was painted the same as the guitar recently (Myka?)..it was stunning.

Drak - Any progress on this project? I'm really looking forward to seeing this one through to the end...just fablous wood selection and construction.. but what else is new.. LETS GET AN UPDATE!!

We use them often actually...for joining wood to make a body blank - for joining a fancy top - for joining wood to make neck blanks. I used one to make the electronics cavity cover on my last guitar.

Here's a picture of a before and after - georgous mahogany, I was hesitant to smear brown goo all over it, but after scraping, drying and sanding - I was stunned how much better the piece looked. Always try it on a scrap, I bet you'll be surprised.

Have you thought of other neck finishing techniques? Personally I don't like a lacqured neck - gets sticky after playing for a while.. I now use a gel fininish (stew mac carries the gel) - this just wipes on, wipes off...I don't even mask the board. But if you are masking, I suggest using a very high quality painters tape - or go to the auto parts store and buy a roll of pinstriping tape. Either way, test it out first...you don't want to find out that the solvents melt the tape while it's ON your neck... Not a maple fretboard I assume?

Morben - I used CA because it was suggested by a very reputable member here at projectguitar. I wanted something that could fill pores but not alter the color too much. The suggestions given to me were CA glue, and epoxy if I remember correctly. Since I don't care for working with epoxy all that much, CA was my choice. It is harsh on the eyes if you don't have ventilation but other than that it went quickly and easily. If you have suggestions for a good clear pore filler, please let me know. I think there were others also looking for the same thing a while back. I recently attended a finishing class at WoodCraft and asked about this and didn't get much along the lines of transparent pore fillers. There were plenty of options for colored fillers but no help with transparent. Although I am not a finishing expert - I stand by my recommendation. CA does do a good job if you're after a clear filler. - you just need some ventilation and examine closely after sanding smooth. Dave, You're correct in the fact that there are not many other options for a "clear" filler - It wasn't meant as a slight at it's use for that need.. But lets ask why that would be the case? Afterall, grainfilling has been around far longer than guitar building.. I think it's because a piece of wood that requires grainfilling will have it's beuaty inhanced by the making the grain stand out.. Back in the day they would use pumise in a french polish process to fill the grain. I've yet to find a piece of wood that didn't look better with a grainfiller. I'm well aware that's my opinion - and others may vary. But I do know that after working with a piece of wood for months and turning it into a work of art - we all fall in love with it's appearance. The though of altering that appearnce is often unappealing - heance "I'll keep it clear". I do like that look - but I like the filled look better.. Again, I suggest trying Wunderfil. It's a waterbased woodfiller that you can waterdown and use as a grainfiller. It's not nearly as messy as the oil based fillers, and if you really want a match, they offer it in many colors and you can combine them. http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_detai...ilter=wonderfil I'd be careful using Sanding Sealer as your only filler as well...It has much higher solids content then Nitro, however it will shrink over time. I always use it on top of the filler to seal and give me a level surface to shoot the lacquer on though..

How about a LP Jr. for a middle ground?

Jeremy, you can't successfully grainfill with lacquer. Over time the lacquer will continue to shrink/cure and expose the grain. Porefilling is easy - I've been experimenting with a waterbased pore filler (wunderfil) and it works great. No issues so far. It also comes in a wide varity of colors to match your wood if you want it to...however I think a darker filler really brings out the grain. Why try to hide a great piece of wood?! Filling with CA works - but why not just use the intended product!

careful of the prevail units - I've never come close to an acceptable finish with them. They spit and splatter all over. probably fine for painting a model car, but not for a tinted clear coat on a guitar. Used them once and tossed them the same day. TSL: yes, dyes...I even recommended the type in my previous post! For a finish on the cheap, use the spray lacquer. Read my sunburst thread which describes finish/dye compatability...then test on a scrap!!

Thanks! I not to handy with the linking...

www.photobucket.com Take pictures fast before someone buys the camera! Seperate note: Student Loan?

I agree, looks like a tobacco burst. Now, there is more than one way to skin a cat, but I'd highly suggest picking up an inexpensive airbrush (you can buy compressed air in cans...eliminating the need for a compressor). I know that Myka has had success with a rubbed sunburst, but I imagine that's after lots of practice, and a few "sandbacker" tops...but he's getting great finishes with it - maybe he'll hop in here. My last guitar was sunburst, and I put up a tutorial http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...wtopic=6194&hl= (second time I've posted that...feel like I'm trying to advertise something I do suggest using dyes...I like the alcohol soluable ones. I'd suggest the Yellow, medium reddish brown, and dark chochlate brown. If you spray, which I found to be surprisingly easy for my first time - be sure to seal with Vinyal sealer!! The dye hits the surface and is almost try...using a sealer with excessive thinner in it will ruin the finish. Keep us posted.

I pulled this comment of mine from another post... "A clear finish is only as good as the surface it rests on... If you really want a nice finish that shows depth then you should be using a base sealer coat (sanding sealer) after finish sanding the maple. The most overlooked step here is keeping the wood clean and free of sanding dust. Use a can of compressed air and a tack cloth often. It should be absoluty free of any dust before applying the sealer coat. Next apply a dye - not a stain - a dye. Minwax if for footstools and shelves...not guitars. Pick up a color that you want in powdered form. I suggest alcohol soluble..although people have had good results with the water soluble dyes. Apply the dye on top of the sealer coat...let it dry...re seal. Sand this flat with wet sanding paper starting at 600. Once all the "hills and valleys" are gone, you can begin shooting your Nitro Lacquer. Apply 2-3 coats a day for 3 days. Lightly sanding between sets. Before the final finish, let the nitro gas out for ~4 weeks. Then start with 600 and go to 2000. You should be spending about 1 hour on each grit to get the proper finish. Resist the temptation to use a sander...do this by hand and dry the surface often to check for scratches etc. After you've reached 2000 - use something like 3M's Machine Polish to buff out the shine. Note on guitar finishing...you'll get out of it what you put into it. If you want a great finish, you need to follow the proper steps. There is more than one way to skin a cat - but if you follow these steps, you'll have a very impressive looking finish. Spend some time on ReRanch reading their tutorials...very helpful." Also found this post that has some pictures of my last guitar during the above process.. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...wtopic=6194&hl=

Lots of questions...While I'm not a fan of refinishing a guitar, doing a neck through or a set neck guitar is not very different from doing a bolt on. First determine the current finish...is it a poly or a nitro? Then take the necessary steps in removing that finish. Stripper and sanding are most common. I'd suggest keeping the binding intact unless you have some experience with binding..sometimes finding a suitable replacement is difficult. after you've preped the wood for a new finish you'll want to mask the fretboard if it's not maple. Will it look just like a factory finish? Well, that's hard to say - if this is your first finishing job, probably not. I'm not trying to insult - but it does take a lot of practice to produce a great finish. Will it crack? possibly..nitro will "craze", which look like little cracks or spiderwebs..super cool on a 57 les paul...not so cool on a new finish...this is caused by changed in the tempurature when spraying ..Temp and humidity need to remain constant while it is curing. I assume you are talking about using a Nitro Lacquer - if that's the case, you'll need to wet sand the finish after it has cured for about 6 weeks. Read up on this (try reranch guitars). I prefer the Nitro even tho it's more work. But before you start sanding - ask why you're refinishing the guitar...It will greatly reduce the value (if that's a concern) and you could end wishing it were back to the way it was 4 weeks from now. I suggest either buying an inexpensive "kit" guitar or building a body...once you get finishing down, THEN try a refinsh.. Hope that helps and best of luck! Keep us posted.

Please post your schematic, as it's difficult to answer w/o seeing what's happening. But first check that the hot isn't touching the ground anywhere. Also, you'd have better luck at having the right people see this if it was posted in the "Electronics" forum.

I've seen that used to age parts as well, but I'd be concerned if he was finishing on top of it...wax doesn't promote the best adhesion for a finish. But for other parts like Tuner Knobs and pick-up rings it would work well.

I assume you are refinishing the entire guitar and not just the binding? If that's the case, you can tint your lacquer, which you can mix yourself and get the right "age" to it. If you don't have spray equipment, reranch sells tinted lacquer in rattle cans. You could also apply a washcoat of shellac, which come in varity of tints, before applying the top coat.

I use a gun from Grizzly that I picked up for ~$50. Works great, very happy with it. http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G5352

Teak is an "oily" wood, often used for outdoor purposes because it can withstand the elements... Oily woods can be difficult to finish. I've had the best luck by wiping down the surface with acetone, helping it to dry quickly with some compressed air...then immeadiatly applying my sealer coat. If you wait too long, the oils will come back to the surface and marginalize the adhesion of your sealer. You may want to consider just an oil finish - then possibly a wax coat if necessary..it would be easier to apply and you're reducing the potential for problems.

Try this! http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_detai...ferings_id=2380

I used the Master Gel finish by Belthen (sp?) before Stew Mac carried it...I have a guitar that I did three years ago for a very active performing musician, and there have been zero issues. Most folks comment on it after playing a neck with this finish...it's unlike anything you can buy in a store today..give it a shot.

Let me address the scale length question... The quoted scale length is based on the distance from the nut to the saddle of the High E string. Since guitars need to have the intonation adjusted (length of the string) to maintain proper pitch everywhere on the fretboard, the strings will end up being different lengths. This is achomplished by adjusting the saddles on the bridge. So when establishing a location for your bridge, leave room for adjustment in the saddles. FYI, the high E string will be the shortest of the strings... Read up on Guitar Set-up's to get a better idea of how the intonation adjustment works. Try Gearheads - they have a great one page set-up guide. per the routing...someone posted a good into to routing here a week or so back.. But PRACTICE ON SCRAPS until you have it right. It's very easy to loose control of a router - and that can be damaging not only to the guitar, but to you...

Have you seen the product "Inlace?" Do a search on it. It's a "mix-up" inlay material often used by woodturners - it sands, machines, and drills very well. It's available in a wide range of colors as well.

Try using a "wipe-on Gel" finish...Since I tried this, I haven't used anything else...easy to apply and it yields an excellent finish - not glossy, as it maintains the "wood feel". Buff with steel wool between coats.

Did you already dye the guitar?