Jaden

I hope its a consoalation that all these folk actually have a printed copy - im one of them too I understand your frustration.

Jaden, I don't know what his set up is, but there is a company that sells endmills specifically for CNC fretboard slots. Check out precisebits.com. Now if only I had the space to build my CNC router!!! Ive been looking around for a supplier of small router bits - thanks very much for the site rirhett ! BTW guys - I can contain myself no longer - my CNC arrives tomorrow

try this, its my fave H-H combo - you get coild splitting AND series / parallel switching http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h139/wha...2-corrected.gif

Mattia is right, but the chances are that you will have to adjust the truss rod a little.

no, this guy showed me a figure of 8 that would fit into the soundhole of many acoustics - Like I say, I have no direct experience of this other than meeting the guy, I have his details written down on a piece of paper in the truck - its parked over the road so ill did them out tomorrow. all I can say is im relaying information from that was coming at me at 100mph he was a real enthusiast and craftsman that made grandmother clocks out of burr timbers etc. I can understand if this info was of no help at all - all I can recall is the info itself and the speed I had to absorb it at good luck. Jaden

I have no direct experience with this BUT !! the other day at the timberyard I was trading stories with a canny old craftsman who makes clocks and he uses a LOT of binding. while we were talking he showed me on a piece of binding he had in his hand... he held it hanging by its end and pointed out all the natural curves, he said that he always bends the natural curves the opposite way around a radius immediately before a tighter radius - if that makes sense, I.E - in a figure 8 he would use the natural curve in its opposite radius at the bottom of he 8 (the longest circumference) and then the wood will naturally want to curve around the tighter radius at the top - if that makes sense.. anyway, he didnt say that he steamed the wood, he just said that he wet it ! good luck.

could be tung oil used for the finish?? Gibson state that its a "hand rubbed finish" my preference for an oil finish is tung oil...

ooops, caught me out ! Ive not called david dyke (just looked at the website), I will do so tomorrow, thanks for the advice ! OK, I called them and you are right, I shall jump in the hilux and get down there to collect a mixture of planks and blanks, as well as anything else that takes my fancy ! thanks batfink.

nice job man, ive been looking for something similar and all of the "off the shelf" items are very expensive !

do yourself a favour with any metal soled plane and test its flatness with a dial guage or what ever you have, I betcha it aint flat. once youve done that, find out which of your mates has a surface grinder and get it properly skimmed DEAD flat and then try it again, it makes a heck of a difference.

thanks Fry, ive been through that list already and im still in need of a supplier of sawn boards as opposed to body blanks.

whats that cutter that you have on your CNC ?

RPM is indicated on the bit - unless the bits are "cheap ass" as someone has said. Im sure that there is a 'rule of thumb' for much of this but.... it depends on a lot of factors. wood type bit length dit diameter bit shaprness jig accuracy router power I always cut in passes but I wouldnt use the same depth for Ash as I would for Basswood or MDF or chipboard. then there is the balance of RPM and feed rate to prevent burning etc etc etc......

Im looking for a supplier of unmachined boards, or PAR boards, body blanks are great for one-off's but im needing to buy cubic meters of timber. Thanks for the suggestion however, its looking increasingly like these are the only types of places I can get these timbers.

get the tracking as good as its going to get then.... run a piece of thin ply though the saw exerting no pressure on the workpiece - let it find its own direction through the blade and then set the fence at that angle. high quality bandsaws are at the mercy of poorly made blades.....

I have a porter cable on the way I missed hitachi but omitted porter cable cos its 110v only.... I will let you know what I think of my PC 892

there are a lot of good routers out there suitable for use in a table, how much money have you saved ? ive been routing for years and you have to go a long way to beat either trend or bosch.. but both use different systems for attached guides etc so if you go with one - stick with them. the trend T11 is great because it fits via a quick release mechanism into the trend pro router table - but that combo will set you back a cool £550 or so! the difference is clear however between good and bad routers, the collets, the stability of the shaft, the reliability of the bearings and the power of the motor is not always 'relative' to its the claims of the individual router. for example - you can buy a silverline POS router for £45 which has a 2000 watt motor - stack it up against the same Trend router and you will soon realise that the power figures have been fudged somewhere along the way - someone may know why this is, but I dont. I recently bought a trend T3 (550w) for light work and found that it had more power than a B&Q special rated at 1200w! sorry if im teaching you to suck eggs mate but pay the money - get the quality if you possibly can - some brands to consider. Trend De-walt makita Bosch -they also make a fixed base router Freud Festool

as the title says, many yards say they stock it on their wesite, but when you give them a call - they never stock it. I dont want just body sized prepared balnks, I can process dried boards.. anyone.. Please ! Jaden

one or two way is fine - most of the guitars that I play have 1 way truss rods and one piece necks... two way rods will need deeper routing so aint any good for the skinny neck lovers

i still dont know hpw to get into the download centre but thx anyway If you read the whole page it basically says donate to get access.

its all here - http://www.projectguitar.com/menu/forum.htm J.

I make it 637.5mm - although I only measured with a tape - Im confident its pretty accurate.. thats measured from the fingerboard side of the nut and following the taper along the low e side of the fretboard until it intersects the bridge post. edit: I measured 3 guitars - 91 RG, a 93 RG and a RG body with a JEM neck - they are all 25.5" scale and all the same. they all use original edge or lo-pro edge trems and all of them measure 25.5" to the first saddle (id never noticed that before but the first saddle on them all is the G-string) if you need any more info just ask mate Jaden

The other part of not being around was a job change that had me traveling 2 out of every 3 weeks for awhile. Started racing rc's. I took some time off building, life happens. The other thing I would say about Coast is don't be afraid to call them. They are the most knowledgeable airbrush store on the planet, and maybe beyond. They will repair and rebuild brushes, answer qeustions etc. Dave the owner and his staff love to help. They are also the place that has a free party for thier customers every year. Free tacos, free bands, vendors and a paint/panel jam. If your into Pinstripping, Jeff Styles and Tom Kelly took the time to show me how to pull a line/hold a brush Thats the equivielant of Steve Vai and Tom Morello stopping by GC to give a coplete noob a lesson. Stop by if your in Anaheim, I drove from Vegas to Anaheim for it. Thanks Syxx, thats some pretty useful information there mate ! the next time im in the Anaheim area I will call in - I think its only about 6000miles from Cambridge seriously though, thanks for the shout, a lot of people are recommending HOK - it seems as though I may not have to go to the US to find a supplier, they have a UK distribution network as I found only last night and I will give that a try http://www.houseofkolor.co.uk/ Also, I was going to clear using a non-isocyanate 2K lacquer - should be compatible but im a bit of a noob with this painting lark - I have a friend who is much more knowledgeable and have to ask him all the time..... thanks fella's

Batfink - youre dead right mate, I finished a strat copy in B&Q's finest offering of plasikote flourescent yellow, its OK but not really very professional.... I "minced" down to Movac - a paint supplier to the trade near me and the guy just didnt want to help... in an overly helpful way,,, er if you know what I mean... I wanted bright colours for spraying with a HVLP gun... Thanks Wes, I shall check out house of kolor ! Jaden

Hiya people, im looking for a vendor in the UK to supply brightly coloured / flourescent paints. I dont mind ordering from abroad but it seems that most suppliers wont ship 'chemicals' like paint etc.... if you think of late 80's JEM's and RG's then thats the kind of stuff im looking for ! Thanks in advance. Jaden