Prostheta Posted November 2, 2006 Report Share Posted November 2, 2006 Cheers NJD! I knew I'd seen them somewhere before. I don't think I'll invest in a set purely because I bought some big ol' sash cramps for the job. That said, Tool GAS is a well known phenomenon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NJD Posted November 2, 2006 Report Share Posted November 2, 2006 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted November 3, 2006 Report Share Posted November 3, 2006 Speaking of great clamps, check these out (for you drop toppers...). http://www.grizzly.com/products/h5510 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biliousfrog Posted November 8, 2006 Report Share Posted November 8, 2006 (edited) thanks for the link NJD...just bought a load of tools from there but didn't spot them...soon be payday though as for non-stick stuff & stopping the clamps from getting glued up.... If you're using those 4-way clamps, why not cut a groove in the centre of the blocks? The groove will always be in the centre will it not?.. & I'm sure a small 1/2" gap won't cause much of a problem with all that pressure everywhere else. Just a thought. *edit* I guess that would only work with two boards though. Edited November 8, 2006 by biliousfrog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supernova9 Posted November 8, 2006 Report Share Posted November 8, 2006 thanks for the link NJD...just bought a load of tools from there but didn't spot them...soon be payday though as for non-stick stuff & stopping the clamps from getting glued up.... If you're using those 4-way clamps, why not cut a groove in the centre of the blocks? The groove will always be in the centre will it not?.. & I'm sure a small 1/2" gap won't cause much of a problem with all that pressure everywhere else. Just a thought. *edit* I guess that would only work with two boards though. Because if you're gluing wood-to-wood with titebond or similar, and the clamp rails are made of wood, unless you put something like packing tape or plastic on them, the wood clamps will be glued to the wood workpiece. Dimensions/grooves wouldn't make a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biliousfrog Posted November 9, 2006 Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 thanks for the link NJD...just bought a load of tools from there but didn't spot them...soon be payday though as for non-stick stuff & stopping the clamps from getting glued up.... If you're using those 4-way clamps, why not cut a groove in the centre of the blocks? The groove will always be in the centre will it not?.. & I'm sure a small 1/2" gap won't cause much of a problem with all that pressure everywhere else. Just a thought. *edit* I guess that would only work with two boards though. Because if you're gluing wood-to-wood with titebond or similar, and the clamp rails are made of wood, unless you put something like packing tape or plastic on them, the wood clamps will be glued to the wood workpiece. Dimensions/grooves wouldn't make a difference. exactly!...if the join is in the centre & the clamps have a groove in the centre running along the glue line then they won't make contact with the join or any glue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supernova9 Posted November 9, 2006 Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 exactly!...if the join is in the centre & the clamps have a groove in the centre running along the glue line then they won't make contact with the join or any glue Look at this picture: You can't run the glue line along the clamps - the clamps wouldn't put pressure on the joint holding it together that way. You method just won't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biliousfrog Posted November 9, 2006 Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 I haven't explained myself very well obviously. I've drawn a diagram but as images can't be uploaded here I'm trying to sort out a place to host it....I'll be back! ok, if thise has worked you should be able to see what I mean.... The red line shows the glue line...the blue parts are the grooves cut along the glue line so that the clamps aren't in contact with any glue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supernova9 Posted November 9, 2006 Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 I haven't explained myself very well obviously. I've drawn a diagram but as images can't be uploaded here I'm trying to sort out a place to host it....I'll be back! ok, if thise has worked you should be able to see what I mean.... The red line shows the glue line...the blue parts are the grooves cut along the glue line so that the clamps aren't in contact with any glue Would possibly work, but then the groove would only be in the right place for that one time, and every time you glued wood of different widths you'd have to cut another groove or make new bars. Seems way more complicated than just putting a couple of layers of parcel tape down, or gluing on a set of plastic covers.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biliousfrog Posted November 9, 2006 Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 yeah that's the problem....I actually thought that there were screws on both sides for some reason so the centre would always be in the same place but I can see that they're only on the one side...duh! My mistake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 9, 2006 Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 I don't see what's wrong with a bit of greaseproof paper :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 I don't see what's wrong with a bit of greaseproof paper :-D It's more annoying to use than a piece of permanently affixed parcel/packing tape, and you'd better be DAMNED sure you're using greaseproof WITHOUT silicones in it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 Okay, cool :-D I use sash cramps however, so I can't permanently attach anything! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 If the clamps are made of metal, and you're using titebond, there's no reason to use any paper anywhere, really. It's not like it'll stick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 Sorry, I totally forgot the point of my last post. When using sash cramps, I clamp across the two boards and use four flat cauls to make sure the boards glue evenly side to side without sliding. A bit of greaseproof works nicely there :-D If silicone is a problem with greaseproof under the cauls, the plane soon removes it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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