Making The Most Of A Super Cheap Band Saw

[Johnny Foreigner]

So tonight I'm going to go buy a second hand craigslist bandsaw for $35.

It's a little 9 incher and I'm pretty sure it's this one: http://www.vanlu.com/saws/3909.html

now, before the comments get started, let me say one thing. I am not going to spend a penny more than $35 on a band saw. The *only* alternative to buying this bandsaw that I would consider is not buying a bandsaw.

it's not that I don't think a better one would be great or worth the money, I just don't want to spend the money right now, and I'm not going to - I would rather live without a bandsaw at all.

...that said.... is there anything I can do to make *this* bandsaw work as well as *this* bandsaw can possibly work? I'm not going to be resawing anything (naturally), I'm only going to use this for rough cutting out of blanks, which will be no more than 2" thick. So far I've done that with a jigsaw, but for one particular project I need to be able to slice off half inch strips and the jigsaw just isn't practical for getting a nice straight line - hopefully this bandsaw with a fence and some love will do that job *better* if not perfectly.

i'm assuming a new blade is probably in order - what should i be looking out for on that front?

[Johnny Foreigner]

FYI, I'm searching through the forum now for general stuff on band saws. just wondering if there was additional info that might be pertinent.

[Johnny Foreigner]

here she is:

[Mender]

I have one like that, but branded "Powercraft". not a bad little tool, but you must use good blades. I use a 1/2 inch blade for straight cutting, and a 1/4 inch for curves. The blades supplied with the saw would not cut straight at all, so I bought some replacements online and have had no problems since. Just be careful to let the saw do the work. As soon as you start pushing with any pressure, the cut will wander.

Now then, fine tuning the beast. Not a hell of a lot you can do to these, they are what they are, usable. One thing I will say, the blade guides are little carbon slugs (assuming it is exactly the same as mine) and they have a tendency to break very easily when you tighten the hex screws that hold them in place It's an awkward situation; the difference between too loose, tightened just right, and tightened enough to break them is very fine indeed.

I overcame the problem by cutting some new guides out of some old beech I had laying around. They do the job perfectly, they don't wear down as fast as the carbon, and best of all, they don't break when you tighten the hex screws

Oh, and you can ignore the specs that say the widest blade you can use is 3/8 inch. It will take 1/2 inch blades with no problem

Edited April 23, 2010 by Mender

[Woodenspoke]

is there anything I can do to make *this* bandsaw work as well as *this* bandsaw can possibly work

You get what you pay for when it comes to bandsaws, live and learn.

[Johnny Foreigner]

is there anything I can do to make *this* bandsaw work as well as *this* bandsaw can possibly work

You get what you pay for when it comes to bandsaws, live and learn.

see, spoke, I have a lot of time and respect for you and many of the things you say. But it's comments like this that put people off this forum. I made it abundantly clear in the OP that *I KNOW* you get what you pay for. I KNOW that this isn't going to be anywhere near as good as more expensive, better spec'd bandsaw.

I KNOW!

your comment adds nothing but snide to this thread. If you didn't have anything constructive to add then i'd have much prefered that you said nothing.

[Hedley]

He said the same type of thing in a bandsaw thread i started.

You are gonna get those comments on any forum you post in, just the nature of the internet, just ignore them

...And get on with your damn build!

[DC Ross]

I know you know, but there are many of us that don't understand the attitude of "I refuse to buy decent tools," especially when it comes to things like bandsaws. I use my bandsaws (yes, plural) more than any other tool by far. IMO, the old adage that "it's a poor carpenter that blames his tools" is BS. If you have a crappy tool that won't stay in tune (if it even gets there in the first place), of course quality will suffer. Not to mention the time and frustration it will cause you. To me, that has a cost too. My advice is to listen to the advice of those that are more experienced. There's a reason why you get comments like Spokes: we've been through it all before, and we're trying to pass our lessons learned on to you to save you money, time, and frustration. But there are of course those that plug their ears and dig in their heels who just need to learn things for themselves.

With that said, a good quality blade on that saw sure can't hurt. Also, check out the "Mastering Your Bandsaw" DVD from Fine Woodworking/Taunton. It shows you some good techniques for tuning and sawing.

[WezV]

it will need more regular set-up/maintenance to keep it working and you will need to be aware of its limitations to get the most out of it, i.e cut wood thats too thick or too hard and you will know about it! should get through 2" thick mahogany but you would struggle with 2" bubinga... wouldnt do a through neck but the lams could be cut seperately before being glued and tidied up... many ways to skin a cat

you are also going to have to find a way to get your body shapes accurately onto both sides of the blank before cutting as you wont reach everthing without flipping it over

quality tools are great - but there are all kinds of budget and experience levels coming into this. a bandsaw like this is a big step above the handsaw i used to cut out my first guitar body

[Johnny Foreigner]

a bandsaw like this is a big step above the handsaw i used to cut out my first guitar body

which was exactly my point - I'm not going to buy a better bandsaw than this right now. my financial priorities are elsewhere.

As a result I'm not expecting this bandsaw to do the job of a better bandsaw.

I'm just expecting it will be better than using my jigsaw or it will make those jobs a little easier. and if it doesn't, then I've only spent $35 plus the cost of a new blade and endured an hour of sitting in **** traffic.

[Mender]

... you are also going to have to find a way to get your body shapes accurately onto both sides of the blank before cutting as you wont reach everthing without flipping it over...

I don't see your reasoning here.I've not had to flip any body over on my bandsaw. I start cutting with the bulk of the body on the outside of the blade, so the waste area is between the blade and the bandsaw body. This way, I can cut all the way round with no problem.

As for what it will cut, I have cut 2.5 inch thick white and red oak on mine. I just take it slowly and let the saw cut at its own speed. I use a fairly coarse blade, 6 teeth per inch if I remember correctly, and that cuts everything I've thrown at it

Edited April 24, 2010 by Mender

[WezV]

... you are also going to have to find a way to get your body shapes accurately onto both sides of the blank before cutting as you wont reach everthing without flipping it over...

I don't see your reasoning here.I've not had to flip any body over on my bandsaw. I start cutting with the bulk of the body on the outside of the blade, so the waste area is between the blade and the bandsaw body. This way, I can cut all the way round with no problem.

when cutting out the cutaway things can get very tight as the upper bout is often in the way, but obviously it depends on the shape. with more extreme shapes where you have to turn the body more it can happen too. tighter turns can get you there but these bandsaws dont work great with tight turns through 2" of hardwood

just trying to offer a solution for a potential problem

this is mine which i have been using for about 8 years since it was given to me when already quite old:

http://www.dbkeighley.co.uk/masters/delta28185.htm

It is regularly serviced and continues to work really well. it also works much better with proper dust extraction

today it has cut out 2 maple & purpleheart neck through blanks that are nearly 3" thick and a firebird neck through blank that is 4" mahogany. i know from experience thats pretty much its limit, it wont do over 3" of anything harder than maple .... and thats all straight cuts with a blade that only gets used for straight cuts, wouldnt do that thickness with curved cuts (with a blade only used for curved cuts!!)

i do plan on upgrading at some point, but am not in any rush

[Exoticwood]

I am entering the discussion with a thought that may help you. I also have multiple high quality band saws however you can make what you have(are buying) work for you. Here is my advise, do your best to make the adjustable pieces of the blade guiding mechanisms as rigid as possible. If you have some lignum vitae wood make your guide blocks out of them. It is very hard and slippery. You can also use any hard and slippery wood. Apple works well too. Think out of the box here, all a bandsaw is is a blade rolling on two adjustable wheels with guides to keep the blade stable where it enters and exits the wood. Think how you would keep the blade stable and use what you have available. I once had a butchers meat saw that was very heavy duty and also very crude. the guides might have been from the stone age. I spent some time thinking how I could make the blade not wiggle when it entered and exited the wood and it cut really well when I did a little adapting and rigging up. Try to be aware of the blade tensioning adjustment and how it can throw off the blade tracking on the wheels, more tension than the saw can handle can twist the saw frame and keep the blade from tracking well. Also use the best blade you can afford. Another thing, the more teeth per inch is not necessarily going to give a smoother cut. The thickness of the wood you are cutting helps determine the TPI. Thicker wood ~ less TPI. When you cut thicker wood the tooth gullet has to store the saw dust till the blade exits the wood. When you cut thicker pieces of wood the gullet fills up fast, when it's full the wood dust needs to go somewhere so it spills out the side of the blade, when it spills out the side it will push the blade away from the line you are trying to saw to. It can also give you convex and concave spots within the cut itself. There are many tricks you can employ to make your saw work well. These are only some ideas, others can add to this and or disagree if they want to.

[St.wise-professor]

All I can add to this is Relief cuts... I use a 10" band saw and haven't had a problem I make as many relief cuts as possible when I'm cutting a corner or radius and it works out pretty well. I cut out an SG body the other day and used a spindle sander in my cordless drill to straighten it up. Works great IMHO which I'm sure doesn't mean a whole lot seeing how I'm a noob

[Prostheta]

This is exactly the same as my bandsaw. My guide mounts broke. Literally snapped off. It does at least teach you the differences between cheaper and better saws though. Don't take chances with expensive workpieces on it though, as damaging one or two good pieces of wood makes you wish you'd spent more on the saw. All I can say is - spend some good time with the setup to make sure the blade can't wander, and go easy in tight corners so the blade won't do whatever it wants (like snap, in my case).

Apologies for the negativity, but I hate my bandsaw and it hates me.

[Woodenspoke]

If you guys dont like hearing the truth dont post..Its that simple. I dont lie to people by telling tham whatever they do is the greatest, why shoud I congradulate you for making a dumb choice.

I have been through literally 4 bandsaws starting with a sears 10 inch. Frankly that at least was close to a usable bandsaw. What you have picked up is a toy and it will be very difficult to do what needs to be done with respect to building a guitar. I am sure it cuts thats about all I will say for your purchase.

The minimum size foe anyone interested in a bandsaw for guitar building is 14". Its been mentioned many times. That is if you care to build more than one guitar, and not curse every time you have to use it. The only small bandsaw I ever saw that was worth anything was called an Inca, no longer made, and it had 3 wheels. It was also not a $100 bandsaw.

It will be your experiences when you tell the next guy, "I had something like that it didn't work very well". There is lots of information on this forum, unfortunately many people read with deaf eyes.

[Akula]

There is lots of information on this forum, unfortunately many people read with deaf eyes.

The empty wallet can blind people. Mine does.

[Prostheta]

I agree. I've made do for two years with that yellow....thing....and although I would rather have it than as not, it will be the first thing I will ditch when I close up and clean my workspace in a few weeks.

[WezV]

The minimum size foe anyone interested in a bandsaw for guitar building is 14". Its been mentioned many times. That is if you care to build more than one guitar, and not curse every time you have to use it.

some people come into this with a fully equipped shop - others start with very little or nothing and have different priorities

if its the choice between a good quality 14" bandsaw and a cheap one like this - then it makes sense to go with the bigger quality one

many dont have that choice, for them its cheap band saw vs no band saw... and then a cheap bandsaw starts to make a lot more sense!

but then we have the crowd that go with no band saw and do it with jigsaws. I think thats crazy, but for them its a way of getting the job done - and we have seen guitars successfully built here with methods like that

a cheap 'my first bandsaw' may work well for someone starting out who cant fully commit a large percentage of their income into a hobby they are only just starting to develop.

mine is small, ok quality. cuts wood well and runs better than when i was given it second hand 8 years ago. I look forward to upgrading as i always like a new tool day - but i fully intend on making many more guitars with it untill that point

one thing i would say - if after quality on a budget then keep an eye out for second hand ones - usually pick-up only but it does help keep the cost down

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?LH_ItemCondi...d=p3286.c0.m282

i recently spent £50 and an hours drive for a 10x6" planer thicknesser. It worked well but clearly needed new blades so i spent a similar amount replacing parts, servicing and generally making as new. Been using it a while now and planed up some mac ebony with it this weekend and it works great. bargain!

[St.wise-professor]

I don't know if it's just me but if my 10" bandsaw helps me make an inferior guitar then I won't force anyone to play it. I know it cuts straight and doesn't wander and is plenty big enough to cut any body I've used it for with relief cuts. Sure a 14" would be great but I am happy to have my 10" hitachi, it sure beats doing it with a jig saw or coping saw that's for sure. Even if you have the money for something having the room for it is another problem. Maybe I should rent a space and buy full sized shop tools but I'm a hobbyist not a luthier, so what would make more sense? Saying someone is wasting their money on a smaller than perfect tool is like asking someone why they buy a used car when they make new ones everyday, the bottom line is because it's what works for them. You don't have to drive it.

[Prostheta]

Damn Wez. I'm selling my thickness planer, jointer and spindle sander next month. Want to take all my wood too? Can deliver ;-)

A super cheap saw screwing up workpieces or forcing you to make bad decisions on work processes soon makes you consider far better tools! I have made the best of mine, but equally it's made my life harder. Hope it does the trick for you.

[Woodenspoke]

I want to make this perfectly clear I love a bargain and regularly look through Craig's list for used tools. Other people are willing to buy an older tool and recondition it, something I dont see from most PG members. Try looking at Old Wood Working Machines, OWWM.com another forum I belong to. Honestly most of you guys want everything now and dont, either spend the time to save up for the right tool or look for a better option.

This is not a cheap hobby, you need to be both a woodworker and a luthier which requires two sets of tools.

Then there are people who will never upgrade what they are using now. As long as you are happy with what you have keep it, I am certainly not telling anyone to buy a new tool they feel is all they need. But if you hate it then there is a reason. the other thing is I love my tools, they are the #1 most important thing in my shop. If that is being a tool snob then I am glad I am one.

Again I can think of many operations that require a larger bandsaw in guitar building... If you want to do it all a 14" bandsaw is best as a starter tool. For anyone wanting to make money in this business a 14" saw is too small.

Good tools dont make poor builders better, but for those who can it sure does make it easier.

[WezV]

Damn Wez. I'm selling my thickness planer, jointer and spindle sander next month. Want to take all my wood too? Can deliver ;-)

money is tight at the moment as i am planning for going back to uni next year, but i am still very interested in the pillar drill if its available - will have to see about the spindle sander but i have been spending some time thinking about how i would use one which is always encouraging... delivering would certainly help seal a deal

the one thing i would really like, and will eventually need a bigger saw for, is resaw capabilities....but as st.wise says, space can easily become an issue.

[Prostheta]

Well, for what it's worth Wez - I just want to get all my excess gear shifted in as simple a manner as possible, even if it is for less than what it is worth. My last building tasks here are to finish off the basses and buy the hardware and pickups for the multiscale. The money from tool sale will hopefully go some way in achieving that. I'll PM you closer to the time Wez...?

[St.wise-professor]

the one thing i would really like, and will eventually need a bigger saw for, is resaw capabilities....but as st.wise says, space can easily become an issue.

I use a Japanese saw from Lowes for resawing I run the edges through my table saw and my hand saw runs through it no problem. Run it through the planer and they're good to go.