Jdogg Posted December 9, 2016 Report Share Posted December 9, 2016 On 12/6/2016 at 2:01 PM, kmensik said: OOOOOooooooooo Dat grain..... that's hot! I cant decide if a tummy / forearm contour would ruin the look or improve upon it.... I suppose we'll see shortly. I'm assuming this will be clear coated and not painted? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmensik Posted December 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 Yeah, that eye. I am afraid it will be lost, some contours must be done. I was planning a drop top and a belly cut. Not fully carved as my previous Sabre style. If I don't mess up it will be clear coated! I still like the neck heel, that is redy for a bolt-on, but I feel it would be better with a neck-through-like transition. That with soft pine is not an easy task. I have to let it hang for some days, I have a bad cold and it is freezing in the workshop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Natural Posted December 13, 2016 Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 that grain is really cool- and I must admit- I am surprised you didnt get any blow out from routing those edges. I think if that was a hardwood you would have had chunks fly off those horn tips. Very cool indeed- looking forward to how this looks after carving. Hope you feel better soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmensik Posted December 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2016 I did my best not to chip out. This wood chips just by touching the outlines, I sand the edges right after routing to prevent a splinter being caught by my shirt. Now all I did since are two bridge holes. I bought one very nice Gibraltar Plus in cosmo black and one wraparound in satin nickel. Lovely. Early christmas. The stud line is not slanted so I can choose which one I use depending on what tuners I can get, but I incline to the nickel one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmensik Posted January 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2017 Finaly some progress. Scrap MDF template for P90 (36x87mm, 1/2" bit), test route into blockboard, clean routes. The half inch bit fits the corners pretty well, though 10mm would fit a little better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kmensik Posted January 16, 2017 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 So I carved the top to a cylidrical section. Radius is about the same as the scale length, 27". Readjusted the neck pocket depth and angle four times before satisfied. Now just to decide knob and jack placement. I like the volume knob right under the center of the bridge pickup, but for most people it stands in the way of strumming. On the last photo there is a pencil line of a planned back contour, but I guess it might be comfortable even without it. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmensik Posted January 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2017 The controls should be minimalistic, so a tele cavity is just fine. This time drilling the jack recess went well. But I messed up the cable channel from the neck pickup, too shallow angle and the drill bit showed through the top. Silly me. I glued one big chip back and filled the rest. It is just not under the volume knob, it will be visible. Then I rough carved the body to neck joint. Is the shape OK to your eyes? Or should I round the corner below the upper horn? I will refine it after the neck is glued in, but rough shaping is better done separetly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmensik Posted January 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 Volume knob and switch are perpendicular to the curved top, it was a bit tricky to make them sit in the cavity slightly tilted.Bone nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmensik Posted January 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2017 Tried to patch that drill bit run out. It is not perfect, but not as disturbing. I added a little belly carve only to be more comfortable on my ribs when sitting. I strung it up without pickups, it sounds so alive, going to love it. Now comes the long sanding. Still hesitating whether to put on OSMO Hartwachsöl or wipe on nitro. The oil is more natural, but has no UV filter, so the pine will turn dark after time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djobson101 Posted January 30, 2017 Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 Very cool & very clean looking! I like how the P90s look against the pine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmensik Posted February 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 So this baritone is finished. I applied Hartwachsöl with a brush, wich left deep streaks. I sanded most of it down and applied next three light coats with a cloth. Should have used a cloth from the start. It takes a day for one light coat to dry in a warm room. That pine is still soft under that wax, so I made a few dings when installing hardware. Luckily they let me burnish them down so they are lost in other little imperfections. On those mahoganies on the neck the wax is awsome. I thought I am good at soldering electronics, but this one was hard. New japanese pot was randomly cutting the signal, it took time to find it is the new pot and not other reused components. I always loose my patience. But it is done now. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted February 12, 2017 Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 Wow! A pine bodied guitar, with a natural finish that looks stunning! So clean! And P-90s to boot! I'll bet it sounds amazing. You need to get that into the GOTM. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Natural Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 nice job man- looks like a player! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pan_kara Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 its funny how the combination of pine and satin finish makes me think IKEA at first glance, but then you notice the uniform straight grain, the "eyes" that it creates in the sides .. awesome! She turned out really nice. Love the body profiling you're keeping the electronics cavity open? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmensik Posted February 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Thanks for the nice words. Well, my birch tele got nicknamed IKEA, though it was not made of little blocks as their kitchen tops are. This pine sounds great, has some nasal mid scoop and hump wich makes it speak. The bridge P90 is a bit too trebly and weak, neck is a monster. I do not want to cut the pickup leads, and they are long. If they stay firmly in the cavity and do not short any contacts, i keep it without cover. I like it that way, though my wiring it is a bit mess. Maybe a sunken cover on some posts, as I will not be willing to add the recess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StratsRdivine Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 Wow. If there was a "less is more" award - you get it. Such clean, simple elegance. That butt-end pic showing the bookmatch is the moneyshot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmensik Posted February 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2018 Two years ago I made a trapezoidal neck profile. Nobody liked to play it, nor did I. Cut the edges to a transition between C to medium V profile, adjusted the volute and rounded the heel. Now the shellac finish is not that easy to touch up as it seemed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.