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Devon Headen

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About Devon Headen

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  1. The etched rule is the method I use now, too. Get one with hundredths of an inch an you can mark slots as accurately as possible by hand.
  2. Get somebody with handwriting you like to do it.
  3. LGM doesn't use CNC...unclej got my vote, but erik was a VERY close second. I wish I could vote for both.
  4. The one and only thing that I think would make it look better is binding the fretboard. Especially since the body is bound, I think it would look more 'finished' if the fretboard was bound, too.
  5. The neck looks off. I think you mentioned that the fretboard hadn't been flush trimmed, so that's probably the issue there. It looks alright, but I think if you use this design again it -needs- a carve. The upper left bout just doesn't look quite right without one. Made any more progress on that Limba tele?
  6. You'll want to fill the cavity with wood dust, then wick the CA into the wood dust. If you try to mix the two outside of the cavity the mixture hardens immediately. Might want to do it in two or three steps (i.e. fill the hole part of the way with dust, wick glue in, more dust, more glue, etc.) instead to make sure all the dust is soaked in glue.
  7. ooo, I didn't notice that before. I just cut the frets to the board freehand with the file, then angle them with the jig deal. I think I'm using the fine cut bastard.
  8. What's wrong with the one you have now? There's a LOT more to cutting a perfect nut than just 'filing the slots down a bit'. Not to mention it's one of the most important things on the guitar. Here's a good reference.
  9. You're designing the bass, you decide. You should really draw it out accurately full size, and it will answer most questions you'll have.
  10. I use photshop for the body and headstock outline, print, and draw it all on paper. CAD would probably better if that's your thing, I've just never taken the time to learn it. I don't actually calculate the neck angle, I just set it for each individual guitar with straightedges on the fretboard. There's less room for error for me that way.
  11. Looking pretty good but I noticed a couple've things. First off, like you said, next time you might want to scale up the headstock a little bit. It looks like you still need to carve a bit of a recess so that you can adjust the truss rod without banging into the sides of the channel. Everyone likes different kinds of carves, but I think that you should make the carve go all the way up to the bridge. It's more of a gradual graceful curve than what you've done and it also gives some variety all the way around the body. All in all it's one of the few projects I've ever been really excited to see updates about!
  12. I did? I built the one that's over in the mimf library. Actually, Marcus already asked me about my scarf jointing via PM. From what he said, I'm guessing he built the same jig I did. The problem is that the blade only has 3" cutting height on our saws. What I did was cut through as high as the blade would cut, then use that kerf as a guide to handsaw the rest of the way through. Then just clean it all up with a block plane. I don't think I'll do that again, I think I'll just use narrower stock and glue on ears. That's more efficient anyhow.
  13. It's a really cool design on the 3x3 methinks. This is gonna look real good.
  14. I like the 3x3 better, but since it's a tele, I'd be more likely to lean for the 6 inline.
  15. Lookin pretty good. You gonna do any other kind of edge treatment? What are you doing for a neck?
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