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Ruby Amp


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(all caps 10 volt or higher)

1-100µF electrolytic

1-220µF electrolytic

1-.047µF poly

1-.1µF poly

Resistors (1/4w)

1-1.5 Megohm

1-3.9 Kilohm

1-10 ohm

Potentiometers (1/2w)

1-10 kilohm linear

1-1 kilohm linear


1-MPF102 or 2N5457


1-LM386 or JRC386D


IC socket


battery clip



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well the electronic store gave me:

.5W 10k ohm resistor

.5W 3.9K ohm resistor

.5W 1.5M ohm resistor

Those should work fine, they'll just take up a little more space.

220PF 1KV cap

100PF 50V cap

Those won't work - you need 220 and 100 µF (microfarads). 1µF= 1,000,000 pF (picofarad).

.25 inch jack
You'll need two, and one needs to be stereo if you're going to wire it as a battery-saver switch.
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PC boards aren't necessary, and they raise the bar quite a bit for a beginner, not to mention being fairly expensive - with a simple circuit like this, perfboard is not only easy, but it might well give better results.

Go take a look at the perfboard layout and photos on the Ruby page at Runoff Groove ( http://www.runoffgroove.com/ruby.html ). It's really not difficult, I swear, and you'll get plenty of assembly and soldering experience without burning any traces off a PC board.

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well how do you make a PC board. I have a lot of soldering experience since i have been on the formu. I did little projects around the house. I would like to use a pc board because it will make everything look neat. Im making an acrylic case for the amp. So how do you make one.

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Here's a quick list of radio Shack part #s for the components you still need - sorry, RS doesn't carry a 1K linear pot, so you'll have to find it elsewhere.

274-312 stereo jack

274-252 mono jack

272-1044 100µF 50V

272-1017 220µF 35V

272-1068 0.047µF 50V

272-1069 0.1µF 50V

271-1715 10K Linear Pot

276-2062 MPF102 JFET

276-1731 LM386 amp IC

270-325 9 Volt Battery Snap

276-148 Perfboard (this is the one shown in the pictures at runoff groove)

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well i have a very basic description here,

first on the blank pc board you raw out the diagram, in an etch resitant pen, or a rub on decal (that leaves a trace of the picture) with a etch resistant ink (basically permanent ink/marker will do), when the circuit is drawn you drill the holes (or you can do this later), and then you dip it for about 20-30 minutes, in an etching solution (basically its a chemical that disolves all the copper except for the parts protected by the permanent ink), which as i recall is ferric chloride (i might be wrong). after you take it out, and wash off the ink (another chemical which disolves the permanent ink) your left with a printed circuit board. that is ready to solder.

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Anything that isn't metal or lined with something conductive is not going to shield the circuit. That's why nearly all F/X pedals come in metal boxes. We're talkin' relatively high-gain audio here, so you can't do it like it's a case mod, you have to make sound and noise your priority.

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Well....you probably could make one in a zippo using an op amp and some suface mount stuff....that's really a pain to do by hand...the batteries and jacks and knobs would have to fit there too

it might be possible....but I doubt anyone here would have the means to make it a reality...

And PC board isn't usually messy....not if you're careful at least....

the hardest part about pc boards is tracing the circuit and eliminating jumper wires....

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  • 2 weeks later...

other than the battery the ruby will fit into a zippo if done correctly. they make small plastic pcb mount jacks. that you can squeaze into it.a pain in the arse but if you want it bad enough. theres and article on how a guy built a bass preamp inot an dead 9v battery and used a dual snap to connect the terminals. and put the jacks in the battery.

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