Routing the neck

[GREGMW]

I started making the neck of my guitar today and all was going great until I went to route the headstock shape.

As soon as I got around the end grain the router broke off the top part of it.

I think you could call it tear out -big time!

I kind if made something out of it but its not what I want.The rest of it looks ok except the headstock.

How do I stop this happening again.I am using a router table and the router bit has the bearing on bottom of it (not the collet end)

I was thinking about using a sander on the headstock next time but I am a bit concerned about the body.

Again thanks in advance

Greg

[asm]

all the times ive heard of people tearing out was when the were trying to go to fast, or make to deep of a pass at a time.

did you do one of those two?

[Setch]

Routing end grain is a real b*$%h, so you have to be incredibly carefull. I think I'll stick with sanding for most of my awkward bits in future - I've been stung one too many times by tearout. Sanding or cutting very close to the line you'll route too helps, as does clamping scraps around you head to avoid blowing out the corners, but I still find it all a bit nerve wracking...

[asm]

btw was this freehand or did you use a template?

[GREGMW]

btw was this freehand or did you use a template?

Yes ,I was using a template.

I was taking it easy and cutting about 1mm.I was feeding against the rotation of the router.

Everything was fine till I got to the end grain on the headstock and then it basicaly split the headstock with the grain and tore off about 3/4 inch (16mm)

[rhoads56]

Sometimes you need to go with the grain, not against it, regardless of the bit rotational direction. Make sure the cut is small though, otherwise you could lose control of the router.

[krazyderek]

something similar happened to Lex when he was making his bass, he just glued another ear on the headstock and off he went.

what kind of wood was it, some woods chip and tear out much easier then others.

Rhoads is right, sometimes routing with the rotation of the bit is required for exceptions like this, but make sure you're holding the peice extremely firmly and only make short controllled passes across the bit.

and make sure you have a good quality sharp bit in there

[GREGMW]

Yes, I was going to glue the bit back on and in hinesight probably should have.

The neck is made of rock maple and a rosewood fretboard and it has really come up well for the first attempt (except the bloody headstock)

I am now a bit nervous about routing another one but the headstock on this one looks like s***t so I dont have much choice!!!!.

Anyway I might sand the ends of the next one with a spindle sander but I am very concerned about routing the body because the same thing could happen.

[Guitarfrenzy]

Routing end grain is a real b*$%h, so you have to be incredibly carefull. I think I'll stick with sanding for most of my awkward bits in future - I've been stung one too many times by tearout. Sanding or cutting very close to the line you'll route too helps, as does clamping scraps around you head to avoid blowing out the corners, but I still find it all a bit nerve wracking...

Setch is exactly right about routing end grain. I've also had very bad experiences with routers and tearout. To me the best method I have used is the Robo-Sander. It has a roller guide bearing on bottom, and what you do is double stick tape your template to the neck wood. Bandsaw as close as you can. Then install the Robo-Sander in a drill press.

Then you can sand down perfectly to the template, with no fear of tearout or burnout!!! It's really, really stress free. Just take your time and go all the way around the neck making enough passes until your done.

On certain headstocks, you'll want a 1" Robo-Sander if you want to get into all the areas. So you might want to switch to the 1" to finish it up. I have had so much good luck doing it this way that I might even do the body like this the next time around. If you are still wanting to use your router there are some things you should consider.

1. You must not have a dull router bit!!! Not even slightly, or your just asking for burnout and tearout.

2. Never try to route out more than you should. I have had the best results from making at least 6 small passes, raising the router bit (if your using a router table) with each pass until your done.

3. Use good quality bits, at least carbide tipped.

4. There should only be a maximum of 1/4" of wood left away from the template. The closer you can bandsaw the better!!! It's really good if you can bandsaw 1/8" or closer, it makes routing a breeze.

Also, Rhoads, and KrazyD's advice on routing should be taken into consideration.

It doesn't take many tearouts to make you figure out that there must be a better way of doing things. Maybe you can avoid this in the future, but with routers, you will always have the chance. You can greatly reduce your chances of it happening though. Good luck..

Matt Vinson

[swirlslave]

there some tip on this at stew-mac site, heres the link with photo , look at the middle of the page.

stew-mac

and heres is some quote from there :

Avoiding wood tear-out

Running a router around the entire guitar body in one pass is not a good idea; at various points, the cutter bit will face end grain from a direction that's likely to tear out wood. Wood tear-out is always possible when routing, but it's especially likely with long-grain tonewoods such as spruce tops. The solution to this problem is to cut the channel in a planned series of passes. Referring to Diagram A, first cut the four areas marked with arrows, cutting in the direction of the arrows. These are the spots where tear-out is most likely, and cutting in the direction shown minimizes the possibility.

(theres a picture in stew mac site here to demonstrate)

After making these four cuts, make one long cut around the entire guitar moving in the other direction, Diagram B. Because the first four areas are already cut, the router won't encounter likely tear-out spots on this long pass.

[GREGMW]

Thanks Guitarfrenzy & swirlslave ,

I checked out the Stewmac site and I will follow that when I route the body.

Unfortunatly we cant get Robo Sanders down here in Australia (like a lot of things) but I have a couple of spindle sanders that fit into the drill press which I might try to modify to make and fit some kind of guide to it.

(What do they use on the Robo Sander as a guide?)

My first feeling is this is the way to go.

Regards

Greg