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Building JS-7 copy


RGGR

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Yippeeekayeeeee........my laser cut templates arrived in the mail today. You can't imagine how excited I am.

(The story of these laser cut templates are a story in itself.......but I won't bug you with it for now!)

The news of the day is........ this thing is gonna get finished. Yeeehaaa.

This weekend I will complete the routing on the body and after 1-2 more coats of primer and additional sanding this thing can go off to painters.

Will post some progress pics this weekend.

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Have taken the backplate and control cover cavity out.

backplates1.jpg

Now I need to figure out how exactly to shape the control cavity. Will position the controls on front of body to my liking and drill the holes through (checking alinement) the body. Then I will take control cavity out, but make sure I only take out the min. space needed. No use in making these swimming pool Ibanez type cavities.

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Any chance of seeing the blueprint in the "Download Section"?

Have look at this.......

http://www.speakeasy.org/~sven/site/radius.html

Looks really clean and smooth.

I'm trying. ;-)

I guess you did a lot of sanding...

Actually did find JS/Radius type shape to be much easier to pull off compaired to the Jem/RG shape.

With RG you have to be sure the edge are straight. With radius you can much more do it on feel....and make sure is runs smooth. Yeah, it takes some additional sanding.....but it's also part of the fun.

If you compair my body with actually JS/Radius you will see lots of difference. But that's okay. It's not intented to be factory copy. It's JS/Radius inspired guitar.

You're going with that ghost-flames finish with it, aren't you?

Maybe......although the guitar deserves something special. Just Candy Apple red won't fly I think. ...

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whoa, if you want ghost like flame on your guitar and are using a true candy apple red (tri-coat, mettalic gold base, transparent red, and clear) have your painter lay down the first 2-3 coats of the red and one coat of clear, then tape off and spray the flames with the same red(2-3 coats), remove the tape and finish spraying the red. when its done the flames will be 2-3 shades darker than the res of the body when looking straight at it, and dissapear when you look at it on an angle.

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whoa, if you want ghost like flame on your guitar and are using a true candy apple red (tri-coat, mettalic gold base, transparent red, and clear) have your painter lay down the first 2-3 coats of the red and one coat of clear, then tape off and spray the flames with the same red(2-3 coats), remove the tape and finish spraying the red. when its done the flames will be 2-3 shades darker than the res of the body when looking straight at it, and dissapear when you look at it on an angle.

I let the painter worry about these things. Although I have read up about House of Kolor Candy Apple like paints, and an option is to use base coat of silver and gold (with white pin stripes around the flames.) The difference between silver and gold will give you the lighter and darker colors in the candy apple.

Spraying multiple layers of Candy Apple over gold or silver base will lessen the effect of the Candy. Spraying Candy Apple is delicate process of bringing on color but at same time not loosening the translucidity.....meaning the metallic effect of the base coat must still shine through. The option you're suggesting will have lesser metallic effect in flame area.

Again...that's why I let the painter worry about these things. The guys I'm planning to use have done tons of crazy custom bikes.......so they know their stuff.

Edited by RGGR
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  • 3 weeks later...

Finally!! :D I'm done creating saw dust on the body. All routing and drilling is done. Yippekayee!!

Tricky part was drilling the holes from the pups to the control cavity. Suggested path lead close to trem posts, and would weaked the area surrounding them. After some head scratching, I found a different solution.

One more coat of primer and the additional sanding and the body can be off to the painters.

Things are looking good.

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  • 3 months later...

Oh man, I could wet myself........I'm such a happy camper. :D

THE and I must say THE big hold up of this project so far has been drilling the tuner holes. I simply couldn't get these suckers right.

First I tried free-hand drilling (of course giving it a try on a test-piece first....) but to no avail.

Then I picked up a cheap drill press figuring it would be easier doing it like that. Well, :DB)

I couldn't get the tuner holes to line up correctly. Frustrated brought drill press back to store......

Darn!

And yes, I read all post on this and other sites.......cause this process couldn't be that hard I figured.

Well........it was to me.

So clever me draw nice template up in Autocad and had waterjet cut out drilling template out of 20mm Stainless. Must say this waterjet business didn't completely give the results I was looking for. The end result is/was usable......but cutting through thick pieces of metal, the abrassive components added to the water....while cutting kinda makes a conical shaped hole.......not something you want when wanting nice and square tuner drilling template.

To my own surprise the test-drills with piece worked out wonders, and tonight drillling the real deal was like magic.

Yes, yes, yes, yes.......

drilled_tuner_holes.jpg

I know I probably went from A to Z to get to B. But it finally worked.

Now we can tape this thing up again....give it one final coat of primer....and one final sanding and then this puppy is off to the painter.

Did I already say I was happy camper. Man, am I a

13650.jpg

Edit: And for the clever ones under y'all.....the JS-7 headstock is slightly smaller then RGT-7 headstock. More about that later. :D

Edited by RGGR
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Sanded primed JS-7 headstock off and will put layer of veneer on. Can't have it that nicely custom painted headstock with show working laminates underneath. :D

Guess, I should have listen earlier when one of you remarked if I would put veneer on headstock.

B)

Saw that new Ibanez laminated necks also have layer of veneer beneath paint. Funny thing that I never noticed this before.

:D

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  • 2 weeks later...

Completed priming and sanding headstock. Will take care of body next. One final coat of primer and this puppy can go off to the painters.

Saw Satch play live in Heineken Beer Stube in Amsterdam last night.

Whooooaaaa!

Can that man play. :D

He didn't play his Candy Apple seven, but gosh did that Candy Apple JS 1200 look good in the hands of the master.

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  • 1 month later...

Drum roll......after almost two years of building, I'm done.

:D

Well, I'm done priming body and headstock, so this thing can go off to the painters.

JS7_primed.jpg

It's about time one of these puppies get's finished, as I started building another guitar.

:D

As over last two years my brother has seen the JS-7, the RGT-7 and the 540PVII slowly come to life, and he has hinted before......eh! if you have piece of wood left, I wouldn't mind having one of my own.

And after......standard replies......lot's of work, no time, first finish these bunch, not as easy as it looks, yadi yada......

Finally I gave in. What can I do.......I love the guy.

So I asked him to pick out his most favority body style, headstock, etc. And as he wanted to learn how this guitar building stuff works...I will let him create some saw dust too, as he can create most of the MDF templates for this guitar. His guitar will be bit of twist between Ibanez Iceman and ESP Axxion.

Can't wait to get this puppy back from painters.

Yeeeee [censor] haaaaaaa!!!!

Edited by RGGR
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I thought you went for a scarf joint. Am I missing something?

Scarf joint is on my 540Pvii build. See here, or here.

This one is out of solid laminated blank. I did put veneer layer on headstock to make sure everything stays nice and level.

For Axxion I'm currently building with my brother (planning stage) I will use another part of the neck blank left over from the JS-7 build.

Edited by RGGR
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This morning I dropped the puppy off at the painters.

With holiday season and sh*t load of work still waiting for him, it will be two month before guitar will be done.

:D

Quality of work in this respect is more important then speed of service.

Although I must say I'm counting down the days..........

:D

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  • 4 months later...

so, quick question about your trem cavity... i didn't read the whole thread, but i'm assuming you're using a Lo Pro 7 trem? why did you not route all the way through for the trem arm? i see you left a shelf, but on a lo pro 7, i think its a good idea to leave it open, unless you want to take off the trem every time you have to tighten the bar up...

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i see you left a shelf, but on a lo pro 7, i think its a good idea to leave it open, unless you want to take off the trem every time you have to tighten the bar up...

I will use OFR-7 on this guitar (but similar issue as with LoPro you mention). I mostly play my guitars without the trem-bar, so don't see an issue there. Thanks for the suggestion though.....haven't thought of it before. Think because I never had to tighten trem bar up. (Still could do this when changing strings, I suppose). I left lip I guess to leave as much wood in/around guitar as possible, thinking it wood improve the resonanse (and so the sound of the guitar).

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