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Project "Pimp my guitar"


ZiKi

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i think im going to run into another problem, the guitar was using a shim in the neck pocket, not sure why, but the shim made a big dent in the wood, so pretty much you cant use the neck without a shim, can i use filler to fill in the dent or is it going to make it too hard to make it flat?

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Edited by ZiKi
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More questions:

If this guitar has active circuitry, it needs 9v batteries. I have no clue what wiring i need. but the question is, how often do i need to replace the batteries, and, would it be easier if I put a battery box in the back?

Would it be easy to remove the rust off of all the screws with some sort of solution, like clr or something, or should i just buy the screws?

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Edited by ZiKi
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To answer those questions better go to www.emginc.com and look for their FAQs.

For that guitar I will suggest that you take the black paint out and then asses how bad the white base is, from there you will be able to decide if sanding all the way to wood or just filling the gauges with epoxy or what ever you want to use and finishing. For the neck I can say unless I see a pic, shim for what? That guitar is a good candidate for a major overhaul, so good luck. Now get away from the computer and start working! :D

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This is just my opinion mind you but I'd make a full pocket neck shim. I took off too much material once on my neck pocket and did this and it served me well since you couldn't see it and served the purpose of having a flat base for the neck to set in. Basically, I took a piece of the same body material, sanded it down like a wedge and marked the holes and set it in the pocket.

Worked like a charm. then again if the dent in the pocket is small, it shouldn't be a problem anyhoo.

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Installing a battery box is the way to go. Although the batteries last a while, I grew tired of having to remove my strings and pull the pickguard whenever I needed to change the battery on the EMG-AB I installed in my testbed MIM Strat. Also, while the battery will fit under the pickguard, it's a little more than a tight fit.

Just use the Stew-Mac routing template and battery box. I put mine about 3/8 of an inch back from the trem cavity rout on the back of the Strat, then used a long bit to connect the box cavity with the jack cavity on the front.

batterycompclose.jpeg

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You don't need to pull the strings or pickguard on strats. A box will be good, but you don't need it. And in a strat the space is enough, my squier is 1 1/2" thick and it accomodates the battery with no problem, who cares if the space is tight, the battery ain't complaining about not being able to move ain't it. and to change it you just remove the 4 screws holding the pickguard and lift it, get the battery out and in and put the screws back in.

DSC00858.jpg

Edited by Maiden69
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Hi ZiKi, :D

When the cracked-white looks cool, why won't you than stay by that color?? I think a cracked color looks cool, perhaps a few coats of clear coat to safe it but thats it!! stripping the black, painting a little, and you're ready to assemble!!

speedy

:D keep on rockin B)

Edited by speedy
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Ziki, remember one pic per post unless you are doing a tutorial.. just the rules.

now to the guitar, keep sanding, try to get it to wood, thats a pretty stressed body, and I think that to sand all the way down will get you close to getting the body as smooth as you need. remember the smoother that your wood and your prep is the better your finish will turn.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry about not updating in a while, havent got time to do because of school and work. I sanded the guitar to the bare wood and put a primer coat on today after school. I couldnt do this the past week because it was so humid outside from the rain (stupid hurricane). but now its not so humid (41%) so i did it. I'll be posting pictures soon

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Today i put the last coat of yellow in the can. Now I'm going to do a 3-day cure process, just to be safe, then sand with 400 - 600 grit and put my coats of lacquer on.

a couple of questions:

what grit sand paper do i use in between lacquer coats, do i use any?

or

do i just put a coat on, let cure, put another coat on, let cure, and another till about 8 coats? then sand after with 600 1200 1600 2000?

Edited by ZiKi
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what grit sand paper do i use in between lacquer coats, do i use any?

or

do i just put a coat on, let cure, put another coat on, let cure, and another till about 8 coats? then sand after with 600 1200 1600 2000?

Well it all depends. If you get a run sand with 600 to level it off. If you get dust or dirt or anything use 600 to get them suckers out. When your happy with as many coats as u want, start with 600then go to 800,1000,1200,1600,2000. Sand with the 600 till all the shiny spots are gone. Then just keep sanding up the line until the previous scratch marks are out. Around 1200 grit youll notice the guitar starting to reflect things. When your done with 2000 go here for polishing it up. Make sure to use a sanding block because your fingers can acualy put little "furrows" into the paint.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=1723

Make sure to always wet sand! and check you passes to be careful you dont burn through the clear. It really sucks when that happens.

Also be careful on the edges, theres always less lacquer there and its easier to sand through. Hope i answered any questions :D

Edited by AlGeeEater
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PERFECT!

From ReRanch.com:

After the final grade of sanding is completed, the final polishing can begin. Use a soft cotton rag either folded or shaped into a ball and held between the fingers. Either way try to prevent individual fingers from causing furrows. Polish in random circles. The polishing can be done in steps starting with a white polishing compound. If the surface was prepared as noted in the last section, red (more abrasive than white) compound should not be necessary. In fact white can probably be skipped and the finish can be polished with a swirl remover type polish. We use the 3M product, "Finesse It II" going directly from #2000 to final finish. Skipping the white and red steps may take longer to polish but on a relatively new surface the final polish seems more reflective.

High five! w00t w00t :D

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thanks for the help! so, just to make sure. i do a final 600 grit sand on my paint coat, then put tons of coats of lacquer on. then i sand with 600 for a cloudy white and work up to a 2000 grit, till the lacquer is semi-reflective. then apply finesse-it and im set! right?

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Yes but if you want to spring for hte extra 20 or so bucks you can buy the white and red polishing compounds. But like reranch said the swirl remover is more shinier on a new surface. Its up to you.

If your paint is orange coat/ish, then i think that you can just leave it. I did on my strat and it worked well. wait of romse one to confirm this tho

Edited by AlGeeEater
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Well, the coat is more yellow than orange, the lighting kinda made it look orange.

"wait of romse one to confirm this tho"

huh?

and, i dont have enough coats of paint to do the finish on there, and its crap quality too, thats why im gonna go over it with lacquer, besides, itll leave a harder, shinier(sp) finish i think.

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Ziki, before you shot the laquer make sure that you color sand the base color until smooth as a babys butt! The laquer will accentuate any imperfection on the body. Depending on how mani coats you have on, if you got a lot of orange peel start sanding with 400 wet and as soon as you can't see the peel, switch to 600 until all the lines from the 400 is gone! I have done 800 after the 600 but is up to you, if you think is nice and smooth go ahead and start the clear, if not do the 800 then clear. iusualy spray the base until the color is uniform, usualy 1-2 coats depending on the quality of the paint, then just clear, so go ahead and finish that baby, I think yellow is a good color! my strat was going to be yellow until I messed up and change to blue, Check the neck pocket to see it. Good luck.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC00814.jpg

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