24" scale and fret calculator software.

[samoht]

i need a software that can calculate the 24" scale lenght and print a template of it.

i tried winfret, but i really can't be sure if it's correct. i used it to print the template, but when compared to measurements of many other fret calculators it seems that winfret template is a little longer.

any help is appreciated!

and sorry if my english is bad

[samoht]

i meant wfret. not winfret

[samoht]

anyone?

[RGGR]

Why don't you use the 18 rule and something like Excell.

Let me look up the link with info about it.

http://www.dougsparling.com/software/fretcalc/index.html

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/coleman005/Fr...alculations.htm

Edited September 28, 2004 by RGGR

[samoht]

hi. i need a software that can print a template. i can't measure the correct distances of the frets even if i know where they should be, because i haven't got any equipment for it.

[krizalid]

A template is good enough but what you need is a good ruler, a straight side for the L ruler to guide you to mark the fret lines, you're good to go. There's a fret calculator in the main page of PG, under references, in the unique reference site. Try it ok? Welcome to the forum.

[KeithHowell]

Be very careful printing out templates on paper with any calculation program. The paper distorts giving inaccurate results to use directly.

I tried this with both a laser and inkjet printer both were inaccurate! The program gave the correct values but the printing gave a small error which was cumulative over the full length of the fretboard, giving a total error of quite a few millmeters up at the 20 to 24 fret region.

I strongly suggest you buy a metal rule!

Keith

[samoht]

which kind? i have one, but it's not accurate enough.

[S.Dodding]

No normal printer will be able to print anything to any particular accuracy, they just arent designed for it.

The only printers that are able to do this are engineering printers, such as Designjets.

[Devon Headen]

I used a print out template to cut the frets on my last guitar. It's a 25.5" scale length so after I cut the slots, I lined then up with my strat board. There are only about 2 frets slightly out of place, and that was apparently from a cutting screw up .

[Setch]

I've had good luck printing templates on my deskjet, then using spraymount to glue them to my fretboard blank, and marking the slots with an exacto knife. Don't print them and wait a few days - paper absorbs moisture like a sponge, and can change it's size if you leave it in a room with higher humidity than where it was printed.

I always double check 4 or five distances with a good steel ruler before marking the board, and i've found the accuracy perfectly acceptable.

[Devon Headen]

That could be why mine turned out well. I used it maybe 30 minutes after printing. I used double stick tape to stick mine to the board though. I guess we'll see how accurate I was in a few months

[KeithHowell]

which kind? i have one, but it's not accurate enough.

What's not accurate? The markings on the rule or your ability to mark accurately from the rule? Use a rule marked in millimeter or 1/2 millimeter divisions. I made a vernier to go with my rule and cutting jig to help with subdividing the sub millimeter measurements.

No normal printer will be able to print anything to any particular accuracy, they just arent designed for it.

The only printers that are able to do this are engineering printers, such as Designjets.

And then only if you use the expensive vellum which is designed to be stable. With lasers etc you are just lucky if you can get printouts accurate enough.

Keith

[samoht]

vernier?? what's that? i only have a normal 1m long steel ruler with mm and inch marks. i don't know how to divide the millimeters from that.

[samoht]

got it! seems that there's no way i can get one of those here where i live, so i need some alternative methods.

[KeithHowell]

I made up a jig as follows:

I took two pieces of wood about a metre long and the same thickness and made sure two of the edges were planed straight and square.

On a base board I screwed down one piece of wood and made sure the second piece could slide against it. I then rigged a clamp so that I can clamp and release the sliding board. I then rigged a fence over the sliding board so that the board can slide underneath. The fretboard blank is fixed to the sliding board and the board moved so that the end of the fretboard (nut slot) to be cut is now directly under the fence.

I now fix my rule down onto the non-sliding board and line up the 0mm mark with a vernier(more about this later) which I fixed at a suitable point on the sliding board. I can now accurately mark the nut position from the fence. I then release and slide the board until the vernier lines up with the measurement for the first fret, which will now be directly under the fence. I use a small razor saw for marking the board.

I can then mark up the rest of the board by simply releasing sliding lining up and cutting at the fence point. All measurements being taken from the nut to fret distance.

The vernier gauge: I made this up myself on a CAD package (TurboCAD) and printed it on a piece of paper which I glued to the board. Have a look on the web and find an explanation on how to use a vernier and the theory on how it works.

If you e-mail me I'll send you the drawing for the vernier.

Keith