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My 1st Project


Fluke

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Hey, My project is a remake of this: http://station-music.de/images/bass/instrumente/b0085.jpg

It's called the RD Artist Bass. made by Gibson from 1977 to 1982. Expensive as hell so I thought I'd try building it instead of trying to buy one.

Anyway, I've worked out most of the bugs in the overall concept of making it (I've been planning for several months) but still there are some kinks in the plan, The biggest of which is the active Moog circut board (absolutley huge!) which has an Expansion/Compression setting where the bridge Humbucker has a high-output, explosive kind of sound with a rapid decay (Expansion) ,while the neck Humbucker is compressed with lower output and slow decay, which combines for a really trippy sound But the circut is impossible to find and wiring it up myself is almost laughable (not good with that sort of thing). I was thinking of, instead of using separate bass/treble knobs like in the original model, I'd use a stadard tone knob for each pickup, so I could turn to Bridge pickup to all treb, and the neck pickup to all bass to simulate the sound of that active Moog circut?

Also, I have found the right bridge at allparts, but it's kind of expensive ($75). Maybe someone knows a cheaper way?

I've also run into some problems with the body out-line. I've been making a template out of a piece a plywood, but the are some proportional issues around the tip at the top (that angle is impossible!) and a few other problem areas. This is one of my main concerns, and need help.

The right pickups are really hard to find. soapbar bass humbuckers with no poles showing and a very square appearance. Perferibly overwound, at least for the bridge.

I have seen an RD Artist Bass pickguard for sale from a pickguard manufacturers website. But I can find it now, and I dont know what company it was.

The wiring I'd like to put in it is basicly a less paul style wiring setup with an onboard effect, maybe overdrive or compression something. I can't find a wiring diagram for that.

The MAPLE neck is set into the body (not neck-thru), longer scale (34 1/2''), with an angled, painted head stock, maple fretboard with mother-of-pearl inlay. And I have decided to try to buy the neck rather than try to make it. But finding some who will make a Gibson style neck like that has proved difficult for me.

If you'll notice in the picture (link above) the strap buttons are really weird. Anyone know where to buy them?

You can't see it very well in the picture, but it has a really cool inlay on the pedhead (a flying F, basicly). Tips on how to properly cut inlay material and route the head would be apreciated. Or if the neck could be speacial ordered like that?

Hmm...

Short strings shouldn't be a problem, Right? And should I use A stereo jack instead of mono for this one?

Ok, thats all the problems I can think of at the moment. Any and all help would be appreciated. :D

Thanks

-Fluke

Edited by Fluke
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with regards to the electronics (thats about all im good for on here) you may not be able to make an exact replica of the original board thats inside it but it wouldnt be too difficult to put a simple compressor and a simple expander on a single board.

there are loads of fairlly simple DIY compressors flying around on the internet. have a look at generalguitargadgets.com or just look in google. with regards to expanders theres only actually one that ive seen (i could be wrong tho so you may still wanna check) and thats actually a moddified compressor origionally made by John Hollis. so imho itd be easier to use those. the compressor is called the Flatline. if you go to John Hollis' page then its got a schem, HERE and if you go to Geofex then it has a parts list and a PCB layout which would be useful. with regards to converting it to an expander then have a look on Mark Hammer's (i think its Mark lol) site then its got everything you need to know. Here. i dunno if you want the controls for these to be on the front of the bass or inside a little routed cavity in the back, thats up to you but neither would be hard.

only other thing i can help with is the output jack. if your having internal FX then you'll want a stereo jack, just have it set up so that the negative terminal of the battery connects to the second channel conection on the jack. that way when you plug the signal cable in it will connect the battery terminal to ground and when you take it out it will disconnect the battery so it wont run it down when you're not playing. you could always just have a kill switch mounted somewhere but its alot easier just to do this.

hope all thats helpful

JG

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All that helps alot, But there's still that situation with the body shape, which really stresses me out more than anything. And those "sharp" kind of pickups and the neck and Peghead inlay (http://www.electricguitar.50megs.com/rds_2.htm here is a picture of it) are still problems.

Thanks

-Fluke

By the way, Doesn't the "sunburst" version of this bass in the link above look like some kind of 1970's acid trip? Just a thought.

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This is off topic Slightly but Here goes. My neighbor has an RD Artist Guitar and the Moog Cicuit Board is utter Crap. They were Gibson's try at Competeing with the japanese market back then and it failed miserably.

If you like the shape, shape it yourself and forget the Moog Circuit and try gutting a compressor pedal mounting that inside. You'll have better outcome than Gibson.

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in which case posablly the flatline and the punchline inside it would be the best option. then you could just build simple bass treple EQs for each pickup which again would be fairlly simple. just have a look around on the net again, there'll be loads of them

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Perry is right about the circuit in the R&D Guitar. The thing was a piece of crap. My father has one of those guitars and has sent it in to be repaired half a dozen times over the years. You really would be better off following his advice.

It was to far before it's time. If they were to reissue it, with today's technology I think it might work. Anyway, I was thinking maybe one of you having access to the guitar could trace it one a large peice of sketch paper for me. I'd pay the shipping and a little more if its required.

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Anyway, I was thinking maybe one of you having access to the guitar could trace it one a large peice of sketch paper for me.

Failing that, have a look at my last popst in the following link for a very obvious method of making your own scale drawing.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=12176#

Good luck dude (even if that guitar is butt ugly :DB) )

Kaj

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in which case posablly the flatline and the punchline inside it would be the best option. then you could just build simple bass treple EQs for each pickup which again would be fairlly simple. just have a look around on the net again, there'll be loads of them

I agree, flatline/punchline circut configuration would be best. But after looking at the punchline I think that will be all I need (slightly modified to effect both pickups at the same time, but one compressed and one expanded). Well it said you could use it either compressed or expanded, after converted to punchline.

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Anyway, I was thinking maybe one of you having access to the guitar could trace it one a large peice of sketch paper for me.

Failing that, have a look at my last popst in the following link for a very obvious method of making your own scale drawing.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=12176#

Good luck dude (even if that guitar is butt ugly :D:D )

Kaj

I wouldn't say I failed that, considering I made that post litterally two seconds before reading yours B) . I have already done that scale thing.... 1" = 4 3/5'', It is still a bit out of proportion, but I suppose, thinking back on it, I may not have used it to the full extent I could have. But still yet, I'd prefer asking someone to trace the outline for me, at this point anyway.

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This is off topic Slightly but Here goes. My neighbor has an RD Artist Guitar and the Moog Cicuit Board is utter Crap. They were Gibson's try at Competeing with the japanese market back then and it failed miserably.

If you like the shape, shape it yourself and forget the Moog Circuit and try gutting a compressor pedal mounting that inside. You'll have better outcome than Gibson.

Actually I think it was to compete with B.C. Rich. For some reson, I cannot stand B.C Rich, I been around to many stupid and annoying metal heads (1) (I'm not saying metal heads are dumb, but the one I know is).

Anyway, about that thing you said about mounting a compression pedal inside, I think Dave Grohl tryed something like that, Check this out http://www.electricguitar.50megs.com/collection.htm

Scroll down about a third of the way, to where theres four pictures of the same dude (Dave), bottom left.

(apparently you have to scroll down to Gibson RD Artist, more trouble than its worth I guess)

Edited by Fluke
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i forgot you could have the circuit switchable between the punchline and the flatline. that may be really easy to do then. just have a switch to choose Pup and then one to choose between compress or expand.

or im sure you could rig up some way of having the Pup selector switch automatically change the circuit for you so that as you switch between pups it automaatically switches between compress and expand.

only question then is what would you do ifyou wanted to use both Pups at the same time. then youd either have to have both compressed or expanded unless you went with the two circuits.

your call but neither would be espescially hard to do

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Thats what I want, One pickup expanded and one compressed, using both at the same time, you get a big explosion of a note to cut throught the mix like butter, then the compression comes in and more quitely sustains the note. If you just wanted one effect, you'd just switch the pickup toogle for either the neck (compression), or the bridge (expanded).

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not necesarilly two seperate units but you would have to have one punchline circuit and once flatline circuit. you could have them on the same PCB. you could even do them both with one chip by getting a quad opamp but in the interests of noise and PCB layout simplicity that wouldnt be the best idea.

battery wise you should be able to run everything, Pups and circuitry off one 9V battery. the current draw from EMGs is very small, i dont know if your going to use them but i assume most active Pups have similar ratings. you should beable to add in active EQ circuits for each of the Pups as well (i think you said you wanted this) and it'll all quite happily run ff one 9V.

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