CudBucket Posted December 13, 2004 Report Share Posted December 13, 2004 I'm at the stage in my project where I'd like to cut my neck pocket and would like some tips on getting the fit as tight as possible. My thoughts are that I should use the actual neck to make a template and then route to the template. I tried that this past weekend but it didn't come out as good as I'd hoped so I'll try another template. Any advice would be appreciated though. Thanks. Dave www.downinfrontht.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simo Posted December 13, 2004 Report Share Posted December 13, 2004 I made a Strat style neck pocket template recently, I happened to have an old plywood strat body kicking around so I made the template using that. First I cut out the majority of the wood using a jigsaw then to trim it to shape I positioned the template on top of the body's neck pocket and clamped it down, then I used a template router bit (with the ball bearing on the bottom), I lined up the ball bearing to sit in the neck pocket and it produced a really good template I'm sure there's loads of other ways to do it, but this worked well for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassman Posted December 13, 2004 Report Share Posted December 13, 2004 First of all, I have built 21 neck thru basses, and zero bolt ons. Having said that I am nearly at the stage of routing the neck pocket for my first bolt on bass, my thoughts were to use the neck and build a template around it on the body with a very straight material (the very common method). But in addition to doing this I would make to "template" just a bit smaller by either lining the inside of it with a few strips of tape or some other very thin material (using a slightly oversize router bearinng or bushing would acheive similar results). I will experiment on some scrap. My hopes are to acheive an extremely tight pocket (duh)- I may have to work it incrementally up in size before the neck will actually fit. If you are able to try something like this before I am please let me know what you encounter. Peace, Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CudBucket Posted December 13, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2004 I was trying something similar. My concerns are that while I've rounded over the heel corners at 1/4" radius, I question if it is perfectly symetrical. Therefore, if I made a template from building up straight edged material along the neck sides and back, it might not fit perfectly. That's why I'm going to try making a template by clamping the neck to the template material, outlining in pencil and then cutting and trimming to just inside the lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassman Posted December 13, 2004 Report Share Posted December 13, 2004 I just tried the suggestion that I gave you. The results are outstanding, it worked wonderfully on a scarp piece of oak, I decided to go all the way throught the oak and ust use it as a template for the real thing. The template pocket is tighter than any I have ever seen. I understand you concern for your rounded heel, I almost rounded mine- I decided against it because of what you are now facing. Of course I had to chisel the corners out of the pocket, no biggie there. Good luck, Peace Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 13, 2004 Report Share Posted December 13, 2004 the heel and the neck pocket are rounded because a sharp corner tears easier than a rounded corner we deal with this in ironwork all the time.you never cut a square internal corner if it is going to be under any stress. also it will crack your paint on a bolt on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadmike Posted December 13, 2004 Report Share Posted December 13, 2004 i cut my pocket again today and it was a total success!! yesterday i just went for it and traced round my neck with a pencil, i then used my router nibble away staying a couple of millimetres away from the pencil lines and then used a very sharp chisel on each side until the neck slotted in nice and tight. first time i tried it, it wasnt deep enough then the second time it was perfect, the fit is so tight im very proud of the work and glad i took my time on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassman Posted December 14, 2004 Report Share Posted December 14, 2004 Wes, I am not painting the top, it is burled, if the fit is tight and clean might it cause any problems for me down the road? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 14, 2004 Report Share Posted December 14, 2004 Wes, I am not painting the top, it is burled, if the fit is tight and clean might it cause any problems for me down the road? hard to say for sure. i would say if it were glued you would not have a problem...but with a bolt on there is some stress at those corners. without a finish i would not worry about it.little to late to change it now,right? use it as an experiment,if you wish...i would. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CudBucket Posted December 14, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2004 Thanks for all your help fellas. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassman Posted December 14, 2004 Report Share Posted December 14, 2004 Wes, No it is not to late, I have not routed the pocket into the actual body yet, only a template. The top wood alone for this bass cost $150 (amboyna burl)- after all is said and done I will have invested about $700 in this one- I cant help help but use the best of everything on my projects. So this is an experimental design yet I do not want an experimentally dangerous design flaw to ruin this thing for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 14, 2004 Report Share Posted December 14, 2004 Wes, No it is not to late, I have not routed the pocket into the actual body yet, only a template. The top wood alone for this bass cost $150 (amboyna burl)- after all is said and done I will have invested about $700 in this one- I cant help help but use the best of everything on my projects. So this is an experimental design yet I do not want an experimentally dangerous design flaw to ruin this thing for me. then rout corners into it....why take chances? truth is it would PROBABLY be fine...but i assume you want the greatest chance of longevity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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