imikeyi Posted June 15, 2003 Report Share Posted June 15, 2003 Well, after deciding that I just dont have access to the tools required to build a solid body from scratch , I thought I'd buy one just to experiment with finishes: LesPaul style body. This is the only place I can find that's close to where I live. I want to buy the one in the link. It is 'alder' but I was wondering, are there different grades of alder? How can I tell it is a good wood? Hmm.. also it says there is an 'arched ply top'.. what does this mean? Does it mean it's plywood and would this affect tone? many thanks Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted June 15, 2003 Report Share Posted June 15, 2003 Cool thanks for the link! Saying that wood A is always going to be just Wood A could be difficult since the amount of grain pattern in the would (growth rings) etc. will effect it's tone. The density of the particular species can change the tone as well say Canadian Maple versus European Maple. Your best bet would be to ask the seller about the ply top directly, while your at it find out if they have a return policy on goods in the same condition as were shipped to you if your not satisfied when you recieve it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevan Posted June 15, 2003 Report Share Posted June 15, 2003 Usually figured woods are the only ones that get graded. It's funny to think that the woods we like the most (see also most Tom Anderson tops) come from the most f-ed up lookin' trees. These trees have tons of knots and twists and turns. Anything but straight growth. :-) My theory is: The closer the tree was to the chemical waste dump, the better the figure. LOL Typical body woods, like basswood and alder, *can* be graded, but are generally cut in such large quantities that it'd be crazy to grade them all. If you can find a wood supply store that does grade alder and such, go for it. A "ply top" usually means that the body is two (or more) pieces of wood. One piece is (x) thickness and the next is (y) thickness, glued on top. Glued pieces of wood are much stronger than wood alone, but they *can* (not always) detract from the tone you're trying to achieve. Remember: Figured woods only go from 1A to 5A. There's no such thing as a "10A". If someone tries to tell you the wood is a 10A or a 20A , tell them to stop smokin' out of P.R.Smith's bong as you walk to a reputable wood supply store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted June 15, 2003 Report Share Posted June 15, 2003 just so you know i built my first solid body with a jigsaw,a file,sandpaper,and a dremel with routing bit.i didn't even have a base for the dremel but of course you need that too.i already had measuring tools.you're looking at around $100 worth of tools to do it the caveman way.some people do it with even less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsl602000 Posted June 15, 2003 Report Share Posted June 15, 2003 I agree with Wes. On the other hand, 80 US$ ain't so much for that body. I'm not sure if it's alder that you want for a LP though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted June 15, 2003 Report Share Posted June 15, 2003 yes that is a good price.also i forgot to mention alder is one of the more consistent sounding woods from piece to piece.if it's alder it is a safe bet it will sound like alder.great clean tone and very crisp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imikeyi Posted June 16, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2003 Wow thanks for the help guys, all I need to do is enquire about the ply top.. and I'll ask about the return policy too brian westhemann, when I started thinking about building the body from scratch I was planning on cutting the body with a handsaw the only reason I gave up on this idea was because the majority of body work/shaping was in the routing of cavities, which I need a router for and I can't really get access too. I was even thinking about chiseling the wood out! Heh in the end I decided it would be better to start with a ready made body.... I'm hoping one day I can build one from scratch like most of you guys have Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted June 16, 2003 Report Share Posted June 16, 2003 this is what i use with a 1/4 inch routing bit.but a chisel would work.just takes longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEdwardJones Posted June 16, 2003 Report Share Posted June 16, 2003 Remember: Figured woods only go from 1A to 5A. There's no such thing as a "10A". If someone tries to tell you the wood is a 10A or a 20A , tell them to stop smokin' out of P.R.Smith's bong as you walk to a reputable wood supply store. I'm going to tattoo this to Kevan's forehead. He's been having a major fit over this and I've been telling him the same thing for roughly the entire 6 years that I've known him. There is no such thing as a "10A" top. Paul Reed Smith has *NEVER* claimed to have "10A" tops. The "10 Top" that PRS puts on their guitars refers to the "top 10% of PRS figured tops" this grading is for looks only and has nothing to do with sound. a "10" top might make a guitar sound worse than a guitar with a "1A" top. In conclusion a "10" top is a VERY GOOD LOOKING "5A" top. If anyone tells you differently they are lying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imikeyi Posted June 16, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2003 this is what i use with a 1/4 inch routing bit.but a chisel would work.just takes longer. What does this tool do? Does it cut through wood? Or rout it? Hmmm This definately may be worth buying for me because it seems to be multifunction!! Let me know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted June 16, 2003 Report Share Posted June 16, 2003 it works exactly like a router only smaller.that thing you see next to it is a router base.you put it on and use it just like a router.just take your time and don't try to cut more than about 1/4 inch deep at a time.it works great in alder,mahogany,basswood,all the softer woods.maple is tougher but it works you just need to replace the bit after about 2 hours of routing.the other woods you will get more use out of the bit with.just go slow.it takes me about 2 1/2 hours to rout a pickup cavity.it,s fun though so time flies.put a bandana over your mouth while working with wood though.alder especially will make you sick as a dog if you breath too much sawdust.i only work with it for about 2 hours at a time(wearing a mask or a wet bandana)then i imediately take a shower to clear off any sawdust which may linger.and do it outside of the house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted June 16, 2003 Report Share Posted June 16, 2003 and yes it is multifunctionall.everything from routing to cleaning and polishing your fretboard.works great to get the gunk off of the fretboard.(with the tiny buffing pads NOT the sandpaper)it looks like a dinky tool but it is more powerful than it seems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imikeyi Posted June 16, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2003 wow, this is great, now I just may be able to make the charvel star style guitar I always wanted it says there are over 50 accessories, are these included? i'll have to look for a supplier in australia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted June 16, 2003 Report Share Posted June 16, 2003 yes there are many different brands at different prices,some with more or less accesorries.it,s called a rotary tool but many people refer to them by the brand name of the most popular one which is a dremel.any place that sells them also has a section of specialized accesorries such as router bits,cutting bits,stuff like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted June 16, 2003 Report Share Posted June 16, 2003 by the way tsl is right.if you are looking for a les paul tone mahogany is what you want.(or korina,limba)not that alder is bad it,s just a different tone.but if you're buildine the charvel guitar you speak of,take your pick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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