Bill-Murray Posted January 25, 2005 Report Share Posted January 25, 2005 I'm going to get a pre slotted ebony board, and am going to be installing block inlays. I was wondering do you guys like non-radiused fretboards, or radiused?? Stewmac's only has 24 frets, I kinda like 22. What are the pros cons of having 24. BTW I'm making an sg with 2 p90s. I guess the 24 frets would solve my pickup placing problem, but I am a little leery. Oh yeah, I'm gonna be binding it, and is it too hard to taper them to the correct gibson width?? Can I just get stewmac to do that themselves?? Does stew have 22 fret, boards on special demand?? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted January 26, 2005 Report Share Posted January 26, 2005 If I'm not mistaken, I think the neck pickup on the SG is at about the 24th fret position. I'd go with 22 frets; even with 22 the SG neck pocket is notoriously on the weak side (just don't drop it). Call the guys @ StewMac & see if they'll leave off 2 fret slots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill-Murray Posted January 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2005 Oh, the pickup thing........ Like, I was wondering why on the sg's with p90s they don't slam it right next to the fingerboard. It's cause the bevels from the horns are there, so on 24 frets you can put it next to the fingerboard. You won't get that "Sweet Spot" Or whatever, but it'll look better. I will call up stewmac, I've only heard good thing about their CS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted January 27, 2005 Report Share Posted January 27, 2005 I will never know why Gibson didn't put those 2 frets at the end of the neck and left that ugly space between the neck and the pup. Tommi Iomi always told Gibson to do it and now after ages they are doing it to their SG Supreme and the Iomi model. Why will you leave those out and only have 22 frets, it ain't like the 2 frets are going to make the neck joint weaker, it will add strenght if anything. You just have to compensate at the neck pocket if you are worried about strenght. SG Supreme Tommi Iomi Epi Put those frets there, the SG deserves better!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill-Murray Posted January 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2005 See, I've already got the block inlays for 22 frets, and I'm gonna do a neck thru so I'm not worried about strength. Do you like to inlay radius or non radiused boards maiden?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill-Murray Posted January 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2005 Common guys.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToneMonkey Posted January 28, 2005 Report Share Posted January 28, 2005 Common guys.... ← Well in the absence of answers, I'll pipe up. Be warned though, my first inlay job (Trapezoid inlays) has just met my own personal Wall of Death in a Drak style as they were.......lets just say it rhymes with "height" Logic tells me that a flat board would be better, I always work on the assumption that I should try to keep everything as square as possible until the last minute, when you can shape things. BUT you can put a rail on either side of the fret board and use that as the flat base for the router. I think it's a matter of preference. There are a few discussions about this in this section. Have a browse through, but I'm not sure if they started as this topic or not. Hope this is of some help. Like I said though, I'm useless at inlays I'm just regurgating what I've heard and what my very limited experience has told me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted January 28, 2005 Report Share Posted January 28, 2005 Like Maiden says, why cover the gap between the neck and pickup with an ugly plate when you can cover it with a fretboard? Just because the frets are there doesn't mean you have to use them. If however you insist on using 22 frets, here's a little secret for you.... cut off the fretboard at the 23rd fretslot - voila, 22 fret board. As for inlaying before or after radiusing, this came up a little while ago - either is fine. I inlayed my trapezoids on a radiused board and it worked out OK. I just taped two pieces of scrap down either side of the board so the router had a level surface to ride on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill-Murray Posted January 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2005 Oh, I'll probably just use flat then use coarse grit on the radius block. Thanks for the replies... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted January 28, 2005 Report Share Posted January 28, 2005 Do a search, this is a big controversy, I will not chip in because I havent done intricate inlays or necks, just dots and scallop a few necks. But Clavin and Jereemy both radius and then inlay, and they are some of the best ones here at that! if it work for them it sure will work for me! And depending on what kind of inlay you are doing, if it is dot, just order 2 more, if it is block, you can leave the 24 without inlay like Carvin does. Ahhh, I forget! Patience grasshopper... we don't live in front of the PC, sometimes may take a while to get the answer but you will get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsilver Posted January 29, 2005 Report Share Posted January 29, 2005 Oh, I'll probably just use flat then use coarse grit on the radius block. ← There was a thread on this recently - whether to radius then inlay, or vice versa. I just recently put block inlays into a non-radiused fretboard. They went in fine but when I radiused with a sanding block, I oversanded and some of the blocks cracked near the edge of the board. I had to replace them which was a pain. After that learning, my next fretboard with blocks came out great. Just be careful with the sanding if you inlay flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill-Murray Posted January 29, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2005 Thanks for the carvin link, it looks good. And john, what did you mean by being careful??? Just going slow and checking alot?? Also what is the tang and what's a crown. Sorry, I'm just a fretboard tard. Oh, I've also noticed on binded fretboards where the frets are it kinda cuts into the middle of the binding. How do they do that?? Does the binding just get pressed in, or do they cut it, or?? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted January 30, 2005 Report Share Posted January 30, 2005 I suggest you do some background reading, you may have heard folks round here mention 'Make Your Own Electric Guitar' by Melvyn Hiscock. Buy a copy and you won't need to sweat the basic stuff. Really, if you're asking what tangs and crowns are you need to do some more homework! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silvertonessuckbutigotone Posted January 30, 2005 Report Share Posted January 30, 2005 bound fretboards' frets have the tang clipped off so theres room for binding. You should really buy a book. Or even maybe a video. Something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill-Murray Posted January 31, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2005 Okay, I don't know crap about fretting. Sue me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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