Help I'm Freakin Out

[Daniel Sorbera]

ok so I go to install the frets and, well lets just say that it isint going well. Whenever I hammer one in (i've done one so far) One side of it (side like the long side. Like neck side or bridge side) looks flush and good but the other side is not flush with the fingerboard and I cant hammer it down anymore . I'm sure the slot is strait up and down. So what do you think the problem is and how do I fix it before going on?

[erikbojerik]

It might be that your slots are not deep enough, and when the fret tang bottoms out further hammering will just tilt the crown of the fret one way or the other.

Try Brian's method of checking the depths of the slot with a business card (see fretting tutorial).

[westhemann]

your slots also need to be clean,or the fret will not seat properly

[Southpa]

Are you prebending the frets before installing? I find that bending them so the arc radius is slightly smaller than the fretboard radius ensures a good tight fit. If not bent enough the fret ends might pop up.

[westhemann]

Are you prebending the frets before installing?  I find that bending them so the arc radius is slightly smaller than the fretboard radius ensures a good tight fit.  If not bent enough the fret ends might pop up.

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good call.i didn't even think that he may not have preradiused the fret

[silvertonessuckbutigotone]

this may or amy not be considered hijacking, but when everyone says, slightly bend it to a smaller radius, how much is slightly, like an inch less of a radius? more? less?

[Southpa]

this may or amy not be considered hijacking, but when everyone says, slightly bend it to a smaller radius, how much is slightly, like an inch less of a radius? more? less?

Its not an exact science at my house, . I bend my frets with my fingers then lay them in position across the fretboard and look at the profile. The arc should be even, ie. the crown at the centerline of the fretboard and there should be a little gap (no more than 1/16") showing thru between the fret tang and fretboard at the center which tapers down evenly to the wood on either side. The fret is seated at one end and then tapped in towards the other end. I'm sure everyone has different methods/tools/techniques for installing frets. Its best to leave a little excess at either end. If you try to cut them to fit before installing then you risk coming up short because its hard to judge the length properly when prebending. Just clip the excess off when the frets are firmly seated and file/shape the ends afterwards.

Edited February 7, 2005 by Southpa

[westhemann]

I bend my frets with my fingers then lay them in position across the fretboard and look at the profile.

i do the same thing.

when i get them in 2' lengths i bend it all at once...easier that way

[Daniel Sorbera]

ok I figured out that the slots werent deep enough. I made them correct and will go and fret it tonight. I did pre radious it using jay5's fret bender idea, jay5's fret bender. Works perfectly and is easy to build!

Ok I just freted the neck and had only one problem. The first fret is about the thickness of a paper too low. Will this cause a real problem?

Edited February 7, 2005 by Godin SD

[erikbojerik]

You're going to re-level & dress the new frets, right?

[Daniel Sorbera]

You're going to re-level & dress the new frets, right?

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yepper. I just dressed um up and it looks great! ok well mabye not -great- but I dont cut myself sliding up and down and there nice and level. SO whats the secert to making the ends all perfect like from the factory? I used a homade fret dressing tool like brian describes in his tutorial on the main site.

[Guitarfrenzy]

I just use a small diamond file that I got from Harbor Freight a long time ago.

It doesn't take long with it to file the ends at the proper angle with a diamond file. You can use a bevel file setup like Brian shows though. Basically I just take the file and run it up and down the sides to smooth it out first then turn the file at the angle I want to get smooth edges. Then I go straight to the sandpaper with various grits, using lighter grit until the edges are silky smooth, all the way up to 2000 grit. It's not hard. I now use a 18" long wooden radius sanding block with 3m Stikit sandpaper to get a perfect fret leveling now. If you use a small block it won't cover the whole neck at the same time, thus it's hard not to end up filing more fretwire away in the middle of the fretboard, especially if you try to use a back and forth motion, which isn't the best method in the first place.. lol Good luck on your fret job.

[erikbojerik]

I do the same thing (yes, be very careful not to knock off too much in the middle of the neck) right down to 2000 grit, then I actually buff each fret with a little 3M Perfect It paste on a dremel buffer (keep it slow speed).

[Guitarfrenzy]

I do the same thing (yes, be very careful not to knock off too much in the middle of the neck) right down to 2000 grit, then I actually buff each fret with a little 3M Perfect It paste on a dremel buffer (keep it slow speed).

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Same here, I use the 3M Perfect It also, then 3M Fine Cut, then finally using 3M Imperial Hand Glaze to finish off the frets. It works greats like that with a Dremel and small buffer pad attachment like you said. The only thing is not to sling the 3M compound all over the room.. lol Definitely wear eye protection.

[Daniel Sorbera]

The only thing is not to sling the 3M compound all over the room.. lol  Definitely wear eye protection.

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lol ya i've used it in other projects and it goes EVERYWHERE. I think i'll get some sanding sponges so it wont tear up all my sand paper. Hopefully when i'm all done i'll have a nice silky smooth fret job

[Daniel Sorbera]

ok I just went and got some sanding spounges and wetn at it and now it looks great! Thanks for all your help guys. Now I cant feel anything when sliding all the way up and down. Also My bubinga for the top came in today and it has the most beautiful flame/guilt figure i've ever seen I'll post pics later.

It souldent be much longet till i'm finished. I got the finish stuff for the neck on the way it should be here today. And all I have to do for the body is glue the top on and rout the neck pocket (along with all the easy stuff like drilling the control holes) and than finish it. So I shouldent be more than a mounth and a half.