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Orange peel.. yikes


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I was looking at my finish job.. and noticed small dips all over it.. small.. but still dips just the same... then I started searching the web for information on painting flaws.. and looks like I got orange peel.. the only thing I'm wondering is.. what caused it to happen... does all spray can paints do this or am I totally doing something wrong.. maybe I had too much air movement..? not quite sure.. but I don't want to do that again.. I read that I'd have to sand down quite a bit.. I just hope it's not past the clear coat.. if it is.. I might have to redo the whole thing.. Yikes...

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I've been reading more about this and from what I can tell.. It was way too hot for me to be painting... the lacquer dryed before it hit the wood.. Here is some information I found on the subject off the internet...

Orange Peel

Identification

Uneven surface formation, texture like skin of an orange

Cause:

• Improper spraying pressure/technique or application temperatures

• Improper flash or recoat times between coats

• Extreme shop temperatures (When air temperature is too high, droplets lose more solvent and dry out before

they can flow out and level.)

• Use of improper reducer/thinner (Fast evaporating solvents cause the atomized droplets to dry before they

reach the surface.)

• Materials not mixed correctly

Prevention:

• Use proper gun adjustments, techniques and recommended pressures

• Schedule paint jobs to avoid extreme temperature/humidity conditions

• Allow proper drytimes for undercoats/topcoats per manufacturer’s recommendations

• Use recommended thinners per manufacturer’s instructions

• Follow paint mixing instructions carefully per manufacturer’s recommendations

Repair Process:

• Sand and buff using a mild polishing compound for enamel, rubbing compound for lacquer

• In extreme conditions, sand to smooth surface and respray topcoat

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yet another reason i'm leaning towards tsl's roller method... sprays are to bitchy if you're just starting out IMO, i hope you get everything figured out.. but couldn't you just put on some more clear coats so you'll have lots there to sand with no worries? i mean.... if you put on like 20 more coats of clear then all you have to do is use one of those sanding blocks to get a flat top and bottom... like... bring the dips up with the coats and sand down to the lowest point..?

ok i'm tired... sorry if that doesn't make sense...

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I think since you were using a spray can and not mixing that you had something on the surface which the spray didn't agree with.Chemical reaction.Resand surface blow off clean and spray a very light mist ,repeat. Then do your wet coats.Do not introduce any chemicals from rags etc.

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Yeah.. I'm thinking I mixed Acrylic Lacquer and Nitrocellulose Lacquer but the high temperature didn't help much... also.. I was in an environment where there was too much air movement... But last night I got lucky.. thank god I put 14 coats of clear on it... I did what Brian, and Krazyderek suggested... I started sanding.. thinking that I'd have to spray more clear coats over it..... So I began wet sanding with 400 grit.. simply because I tried 800 grit and it still showed... I sanded it until.. all the surface became dull... cause I found that if there was any shiny spots.. they'd show up later no matter what finer grit i used... ... so I got a nice dull finish... then started with 600 grit.. wet sanded with it a while... then 800 grit.. and finally 1000 grit.. then I used a 3m polishing compound.. and applied it and used a rag to swirl it on ... and to my suprise... It looked great... I mean really good.. lol... only thing I see is lightly scratches in the finish... The 3m compound I used said it was for taking the scratches out of 1500 grit and lighter... so I'm thinking I should have used even lighter grit like 1200 and 1500 to get a better finish.. any suggestions? I'm gonna hook a attachment to the drill today and sand it that way... maybe it will do better...

Matt

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