azycoona Posted July 20, 2005 Report Share Posted July 20, 2005 hi ther im just starting to make guitars and thought it would be a good idea to jion forum, can anyone shed some info on laminating wood for best results to get a good jion, do straight edges just come with good planeing?and im finding it hard to find titebond without sending away for it ,are ther anys kind of araldite glue that would do as good a job please if any one knows shed some info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPL Posted July 20, 2005 Report Share Posted July 20, 2005 Lots of good info here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egdeltar Posted July 20, 2005 Report Share Posted July 20, 2005 Lots of good info here. ← I believe some one might even say, 'A real cornucopia of knowledge'....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted July 20, 2005 Report Share Posted July 20, 2005 (edited) Personally I don't have a planer/jointer so I try to use the edges that come surfaced from my dealer. On the neck I'm doing I glued 3 pieces of wood, 2 pieces rock maple and 1 piece jatoba. I was unsure if the surface would be ok but I was assured by some of the good builders here that I didn't need to do anything to that surface. I was under the impression that sanding the surface would give the joint more strength, but I was wrong, everyone told me otherwise. The smoother the surface the better the bond, and now after glueing a bit of stuff I would have to agree. I used titebond the original for my joints and it seems to work better than anything I have ever used. And in the past I have had to glue a fair amount of wood, and nothing compares to titebond in my eyes. I know there are other glues similar now to titebond but if you can I would get titebond the original. I would say most people here use titebond. So if you have a planer then by all means use it, I hear this will give you the best surface for glueing, a freshly planed surface. To me I wouldn't want to use a hand planer but I'm sure that if you bought a really nice one that was big enough to get a flat surface it would work ok, I know people do that, although I would feel a great deal safer with a machine. So good luck with your project! What exactly are you doing, a neck, a body, or both? Here's a pic of the neck I'm working on, I'll be cutting it soon on the bandsaw. What ever you do make sure you have fun! Thats why I do it. Later. Jason Glued up laminate neck Edited July 20, 2005 by jmrentis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azycoona Posted July 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2005 (edited) Personally I don't have a planer/jointer so I try to use the edges that come surfaced from my dealer. On the neck I'm doing I glued 3 pieces of wood, 2 pieces rock maple and 1 piece jatoba. I was unsure if the surface would be ok but I was assured by some of the good builders here that I didn't need to do anything to that surface. I was under the impression that sanding the surface would give the joint more strength, but I was wrong, everyone told me otherwise. The smoother the surface the better the bond, and now after glueing a bit of stuff I would have to agree. I used titebond the original for my joints and it seems to work better than anything I have ever used. And in the past I have had to glue a fair amount of wood, and nothing compares to titebond in my eyes. I know there are other glues similar now to titebond but if you can I would get titebond the original. I would say most people here use titebond. So if you have a planer then by all means use it, I hear this will give you the best surface for glueing, a freshly planed surface. To me I wouldn't want to use a hand planer but I'm sure that if you bought a really nice one that was big enough to get a flat surface it would work ok, I know people do that, although I would feel a great deal safer with a machine. So good luck with your project! What exactly are you doing, a neck, a body, or both? Here's a pic of the neck I'm working on, I'll be cutting it soon on the bandsaw. What ever you do make sure you have fun! Thats why I do it. Later. Jason http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b256/jmrentis/ebay093.jpg Glued up laminate neck ← Don't copy pics when quoting. Edited July 21, 2005 by bluespresence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azycoona Posted July 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2005 (edited) Personally I don't have a planer/jointer so I try to use the edges that come surfaced from my dealer. On the neck I'm doing I glued 3 pieces of wood, 2 pieces rock maple and 1 piece jatoba. I was unsure if the surface would be ok but I was assured by some of the good builders here that I didn't need to do anything to that surface. I was under the impression that sanding the surface would give the joint more strength, but I was wrong, everyone told me otherwise. The smoother the surface the better the bond, and now after glueing a bit of stuff I would have to agree. I used titebond the original for my joints and it seems to work better than anything I have ever used. And in the past I have had to glue a fair amount of wood, and nothing compares to titebond in my eyes. I know there are other glues similar now to titebond but if you can I would get titebond the original. I would say most people here use titebond. So if you have a planer then by all means use it, I hear this will give you the best surface for glueing, a freshly planed surface. To me I wouldn't want to use a hand planer but I'm sure that if you bought a really nice one that was big enough to get a flat surface it would work ok, I know people do that, although I would feel a great deal safer with a machine. So good luck with your project! What exactly are you doing, a neck, a body, or both? Here's a pic of the neck I'm working on, I'll be cutting it soon on the bandsaw. What ever you do make sure you have fun! Thats why I do it. Later. Jason http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b256/jmrentis/ebay093.jpg Glued up laminate neck ← OK, that's twice....DO NOT copy pics when quoting....... Edited July 21, 2005 by bluespresence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azycoona Posted July 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2005 hi ther jason nice picture and nice work thanks for replying ive just turned amiture luthier over the last year im making a guitar for a freind out of queensland maple the guitars gonna be a tele copy with a glued in neck ive left the neck base twice as thick like a les paul or a belman mmmm i beta go buy a plane so i can laminate this body i have 3 pieces of timber 2 peices that look like 4x2 bits and say a 6x2 bit for the middle mmm tricky please if anyone has ideas on how i should go about laminating it, sacred cows are cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8rofwyo Posted July 21, 2005 Report Share Posted July 21, 2005 You may be able to take your lumber to a local cabinet shop and have them size it for you. I did that a couple years ago before I could outfit my shop, and the fellow was very receptive to the idea. I think he charged me 5 dollars for his services. I think that if you haven't used hand planes before you may want to take a fair amount of time learning to use them before you attempt anything with your laminates. I guarantee the plane will cost you 10 to 20 times what the cabinet shop will charge. At any rate just a thought, good luck with the build! Nate Robinson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azycoona Posted July 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2005 hi ther im looking for opinions on earvarna nuts do they really solve the intonation problem are they worth buying ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted July 21, 2005 Report Share Posted July 21, 2005 They CAN solve intonation problems, sure. I don't know that it's necessarily a "one size fits all" solution, though, and I don't imagine you could just throw a pre-slotted one on there with a truly satisfactory result. Do they sell them unslotted so that you can do it yourself? My amateur experience (I'm no pro by any stretch-- don't let the post count fool you, I'm a total beginner) has been that a properly-slotted nut or a zero fret will minimize the problems to the extent that you may not need/want a compensated nut. If you've never made a nut, a zero fret also gives you the advantage of not having to agonize over whether you're doing it right or not. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.