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Everything posted by jmrentis

  1. WHat are your thoughts on using fretboard scraps for filler coloring Cliff? I've tried it a few times on different colored woods and personally haven't been all that satisfied, I suppose with ebony or other very dark woods you'd be fine, though some people find you don't even need any color for dark woods, just glue alone. I've always found in both inlays and in patching spots on guitars when you use dust or scrapings from the wood it will always come out much darker than the surrounding wood, so it never matches well. Especially so on fretboards because you're usually not finishing it, so
  2. Anyhow, this is a site for sharing projects and as this as said was more of a sharing whats been done rather than "hey buy this", I think it's fine. It reminds me some of when Kevin was working to finish his design of Tremol-no. Its cool to see what members are making, especially when it goes beyong a guitar build and into technology of parts, like Pete's(PSW) Sustainer and such. Anyhow, cool stuff thanks for sharing. J
  3. I make a template and use it to both taper neck and fretboard separately, then glue them together. I find it easier to bind the fretboard before gluing up so I have to at least the fretboard. However, I also find it easier to have both tapered, as you can apply two clamps horizontally to keep it perfectly aligned. Although, I shape my neck first, so I used a special clamp that works with shaped necks and fretboards, which makes it almost impossible to have any alignment issues. As with Woodenspoke, I also use some pins, but nothing as neat or efficient as what Woodenspoke does. J
  4. Very nice, love that center laminate! The blank has a very similar color to the one I've been working on, but wow that center laminate is a thousand times better than Jatoba, so cool looking. I can't wait to see what that looks like once you've done the carve on the back of the neck, it should really look very cool! Great job planning it all out. Looking at the last pic or two, I can't tell but do you have the rod so the adjustment nut is on the bottom? In the pictures it looks upside down, it should go on the bottom, at least I believe it does, thats how I did my last hotrod if I remember cor
  5. Don't forget to request a list of their distributors, for those companies that wouldn't bother selling it to you, email them back and get lists of who sells and uses their products for them. These companies will have small business all around the world selling their stuff, as Woodenspoke's been saying, your best bet is to find a smaller end business or distributor that uses or sells the stuff and ask them for some. Even if you don't have a company in your town, your bound to find many different types of businesses in your country that either sell or use it, then it is just a matter of maki
  6. Great to hear! A number of members mentioned him to me a while back and since I've had nothing but great experiences and each person I have sent over has also found his service excellent. For my friends bass he even had inlays cut in a material they weren't normally made in, no charge just needed some time. Let us know how it looks when you get your order. Best of luck. J
  7. Sorry I don't have any on hand myself, but don't hesitate to call Andy DePaule at Luthiersupplies.com. Andy is a great guy and will accommodate most anyones order. He sells blanks from his site I believe, but if you just call and tell him what you need, he'll set you up at a great price. So if you have trouble getting ahold of any, just hit up Andy, he'll take care of you no doubt. Best of luck, wish I could help Steve. J
  8. Sounds great and the scarf looks perfect. Just make sure if you aren't putting a finish on the fretboard that the limba dots won't get dirty. I don't know white limba personally, so I don't know how porous and how likely it would be to get dirty. Maybe using some hardwood's sapwood might be better? Not sure, just something to think about. Cool idea though!! Look forward to seeing it turn out. J
  9. As I've said somewhere, everyone seems to have their own recipe, some are more difficult than others, some are more cautious than others and the entire thing changes when different factors come into play like binding and so on. For example, I prefer to do a rough shaping of the neck prior to gluing on the fingerboard, to allow for any movement in the wood. So, then binding must be attached directly to an already tapered, slotted, and shaped fretboard. Then the bound, tapered, slotted fretboard is glued onto the already shaped neck. This would seem more complicated, but if you prefer to shape t
  10. I don't know if they still work, but I know a good number of people here bought wood from them in the past. They used to also have an Ebay site under a different name, I'm sure some of the old school PG members will know the name. I'd definitely try some more. I've always thought they sold some amazing wood. North Ridge Hardwoods seems to carry some nice pieces as well. Best of luck. J
  11. TK instruments-Sperzel info This page has a lot of the Sperzel info you'll need. Used to be one of the few places to get those Tuners. Sperzel has its own site now and while it doesn't say you can buy through them, if you call you can. My buddy talked to Bob Sperzel himself and said it was cool to call for tuners. Anyhow, it looks like .650 is the thickest headstock you can go with any Sperzel, which would be the non-staggered sets. The staggered sets require thinner headstocks, like .590 or so I believe. So 11/16" is .6875" and you need .650", so you're close. How thick are the ven
  12. Its pretty close to being covered by the fret, I think at worst it'll just look like a shadow under the fret if its not covered completely. However, I would make extra certain that you've got that entire cut completely filled and solid because when you press a fret in there if it wasn't filled well it might just snap off that little divider between the slots. I know its not deep, but the tang will be pushing in that depth range. Yea filling with dust is tricky, it never comes out perfect because it always comes out darker than the original wood. If you really shine up that board it might be mu
  13. Woodenspokes thread on nippers :as in fret cutters, lol Definitely check out this thread John. When I did my neck tool shopping I grabbed a pair of channel lock cutters, a bit larger than average, but the head on it was the same, just longer so more leverage. When buying them on the cheap look out for a few things mentioned in Woodenspokes post. I initially try smoothing mine on a wheel, but it sucked, I ended up using a little drum sander in my drill press, worked amazingly well, cuts perfect and after fretting it showed no sign of wear, definitely better than spending the money to buy fro
  14. Makes it loads easier to avoid getting glue on the rod as well. Seems to work quite well all around. J
  15. Very nice looking rig. I can imagine it was a bit different trying the one piece neck/fretboard with skunk stripe. Seems like a much more difficult method, although some people might love not having to glue up a fingerboard I suppose. Anyhow, looks like it came out very nice, hopefully he'll send you some pics once he's painted her all up. J
  16. Just don't angle it on the edge too much because it can literally gouge deep into the edge, just keep it at a reasonable angle, go slow, look at your piece several times on your first time using it. You should have a lock for power on it, where you can turn it on and lock it so it stays on, this helps in control instead of having to hold a button to keep it on. Also just like most any other carve, draw out your lines. It'd be a good idea to try it on some scrap first because it can take an amazing amount of wood off in a short amount of time, but as Rick said it doesn't take long at all to get
  17. I was going to ask the same question as I noticed on the last half of the inlays they have those round corners, which would lead me to the same guess that Prostheta mentioned, just wondering if someone selling pre-inlaid boards did that or not. Looks alright, on ebony it would probably be invisible, but maple shows the smallest of gaps so they are easily noticed. As already said though, great looking build, very clean, cool choices on woods, nice job all the way around. Really like the hardware choices for the woods used, really comes together really well. Should be a great player.Nice work. J
  18. From an old tutorial I remember, prior to carving the scoop that you see on flat headstocks, he drilled a hole that led into the truss rod channel, so instead of routing through to the headstock, he stopped an inch or two before the end of where the fretboard would be, then cut away some of the wood that would be carved during the scoop carve and drilled the hole for the truss rod. I think it'll depend on the type of adjustment the truss rod requires, if it has a small head and allen wrench adjustment then you could probably do something similar, if not you might just have to route out as you
  19. I don't work consistantly enough to give a good estimate, but they don't last all that long, especially on tougher woods. Even when they dull though you still feel the hook. I pretty much sharpen shortly after losing the ability to get curls off the wood. If you feel you are having to sharpen too often you can try using less of an angle on the hook, which will give the hook some more strength, possibly last you longer. It also works well being able to adjust it as needed for different jobs, like cleaning up some rough wood or taking some final swipes at a top before finishing. What I read for
  20. Cool thanks for the info, I think I misread the binding thing. Glad to hear you grabbed that from Stewmac, I really like that bridge. Look forward to seeing this project come together. J
  21. Very cool, like the hardware and wood choices. I also like the shape and carving planned for this build. I had one question for you, on that hipshot bridge are all the saddles exactly the same size. I fell in love with that bridge when I first saw it a while back, it looked just like yours except in chrome, however, since then almost everyone I had seen who bought it and all the places that carried it, carried a version where the saddles were different in size, some where smaller than others, I suppose set for intonation. I wanted to see if yours was the normal one I like and where you bou
  22. Andy DePaule Inlays Andy has loads of inlays including a couple block sets for bass scales including the 24th fret marker. So, that would save you some work and they would be of proper size, that is if these are what you are looking for. If not you can check the guitar block inlay section on his site. If you can't find what you want there you can still get your shell blanks there for cutting the 24th. Andy is a great guy, great service, and great products. Best of luck. J
  23. Naw, I think it looks more like Pac-man swallowed an iron.
  24. I almost like number 4, for some reason the last few don't sit right for me, but its still a cool inlay layout. Number 2 would be really cool, but I'd be worried that once the frets were in that it would look too bunched or the wire would overlap the edges of the dots, if it didn't and there was plenty of room that would be a very cool choice. Just for the heck of it I did a quick mockup of a similar design idea, I used this one on my own project, but with different inlays and for the 24th fret my inlays wouldn't have fit, so I did a "V" style block inlay that I cut myself and it actually
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