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jmrentis

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About jmrentis

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    A Mind Is Sharper Than The Sharpest Tool
  • Birthday 02/22/1981

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    San Diego, California The United Guitars Of America

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  1. WHat are your thoughts on using fretboard scraps for filler coloring Cliff? I've tried it a few times on different colored woods and personally haven't been all that satisfied, I suppose with ebony or other very dark woods you'd be fine, though some people find you don't even need any color for dark woods, just glue alone. I've always found in both inlays and in patching spots on guitars when you use dust or scrapings from the wood it will always come out much darker than the surrounding wood, so it never matches well. Especially so on fretboards because you're usually not finishing it, so
  2. Anyhow, this is a site for sharing projects and as this as said was more of a sharing whats been done rather than "hey buy this", I think it's fine. It reminds me some of when Kevin was working to finish his design of Tremol-no. Its cool to see what members are making, especially when it goes beyong a guitar build and into technology of parts, like Pete's(PSW) Sustainer and such. Anyhow, cool stuff thanks for sharing. J
  3. I make a template and use it to both taper neck and fretboard separately, then glue them together. I find it easier to bind the fretboard before gluing up so I have to at least the fretboard. However, I also find it easier to have both tapered, as you can apply two clamps horizontally to keep it perfectly aligned. Although, I shape my neck first, so I used a special clamp that works with shaped necks and fretboards, which makes it almost impossible to have any alignment issues. As with Woodenspoke, I also use some pins, but nothing as neat or efficient as what Woodenspoke does. J
  4. Very nice, love that center laminate! The blank has a very similar color to the one I've been working on, but wow that center laminate is a thousand times better than Jatoba, so cool looking. I can't wait to see what that looks like once you've done the carve on the back of the neck, it should really look very cool! Great job planning it all out. Looking at the last pic or two, I can't tell but do you have the rod so the adjustment nut is on the bottom? In the pictures it looks upside down, it should go on the bottom, at least I believe it does, thats how I did my last hotrod if I remember cor
  5. Don't forget to request a list of their distributors, for those companies that wouldn't bother selling it to you, email them back and get lists of who sells and uses their products for them. These companies will have small business all around the world selling their stuff, as Woodenspoke's been saying, your best bet is to find a smaller end business or distributor that uses or sells the stuff and ask them for some. Even if you don't have a company in your town, your bound to find many different types of businesses in your country that either sell or use it, then it is just a matter of maki
  6. Great to hear! A number of members mentioned him to me a while back and since I've had nothing but great experiences and each person I have sent over has also found his service excellent. For my friends bass he even had inlays cut in a material they weren't normally made in, no charge just needed some time. Let us know how it looks when you get your order. Best of luck. J
  7. Sorry I don't have any on hand myself, but don't hesitate to call Andy DePaule at Luthiersupplies.com. Andy is a great guy and will accommodate most anyones order. He sells blanks from his site I believe, but if you just call and tell him what you need, he'll set you up at a great price. So if you have trouble getting ahold of any, just hit up Andy, he'll take care of you no doubt. Best of luck, wish I could help Steve. J
  8. Sounds great and the scarf looks perfect. Just make sure if you aren't putting a finish on the fretboard that the limba dots won't get dirty. I don't know white limba personally, so I don't know how porous and how likely it would be to get dirty. Maybe using some hardwood's sapwood might be better? Not sure, just something to think about. Cool idea though!! Look forward to seeing it turn out. J
  9. As I've said somewhere, everyone seems to have their own recipe, some are more difficult than others, some are more cautious than others and the entire thing changes when different factors come into play like binding and so on. For example, I prefer to do a rough shaping of the neck prior to gluing on the fingerboard, to allow for any movement in the wood. So, then binding must be attached directly to an already tapered, slotted, and shaped fretboard. Then the bound, tapered, slotted fretboard is glued onto the already shaped neck. This would seem more complicated, but if you prefer to shape t
  10. I don't know if they still work, but I know a good number of people here bought wood from them in the past. They used to also have an Ebay site under a different name, I'm sure some of the old school PG members will know the name. I'd definitely try some more. I've always thought they sold some amazing wood. North Ridge Hardwoods seems to carry some nice pieces as well. Best of luck. J
  11. TK instruments-Sperzel info This page has a lot of the Sperzel info you'll need. Used to be one of the few places to get those Tuners. Sperzel has its own site now and while it doesn't say you can buy through them, if you call you can. My buddy talked to Bob Sperzel himself and said it was cool to call for tuners. Anyhow, it looks like .650 is the thickest headstock you can go with any Sperzel, which would be the non-staggered sets. The staggered sets require thinner headstocks, like .590 or so I believe. So 11/16" is .6875" and you need .650", so you're close. How thick are the ven
  12. Its pretty close to being covered by the fret, I think at worst it'll just look like a shadow under the fret if its not covered completely. However, I would make extra certain that you've got that entire cut completely filled and solid because when you press a fret in there if it wasn't filled well it might just snap off that little divider between the slots. I know its not deep, but the tang will be pushing in that depth range. Yea filling with dust is tricky, it never comes out perfect because it always comes out darker than the original wood. If you really shine up that board it might be mu
  13. Woodenspokes thread on nippers :as in fret cutters, lol Definitely check out this thread John. When I did my neck tool shopping I grabbed a pair of channel lock cutters, a bit larger than average, but the head on it was the same, just longer so more leverage. When buying them on the cheap look out for a few things mentioned in Woodenspokes post. I initially try smoothing mine on a wheel, but it sucked, I ended up using a little drum sander in my drill press, worked amazingly well, cuts perfect and after fretting it showed no sign of wear, definitely better than spending the money to buy fro
  14. Makes it loads easier to avoid getting glue on the rod as well. Seems to work quite well all around. J
  15. Very nice looking rig. I can imagine it was a bit different trying the one piece neck/fretboard with skunk stripe. Seems like a much more difficult method, although some people might love not having to glue up a fingerboard I suppose. Anyhow, looks like it came out very nice, hopefully he'll send you some pics once he's painted her all up. J
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