daveq Posted July 22, 2003 Report Posted July 22, 2003 When I started building my guitar, I thought that 1 3/4" was the standard body thickness for a solid body guitar. I have routed my neck pocket (5/8") and test fitted the neck. Things are looking good but: The area where the neck joint screws will be going through (under the pocket) seems like it is a big cumbersome block of wood. I'm thinking of slanting it so that it is thinner near the higher strings and thicker at the lower strings. Does anyone else do this? I guess the screws would need to enter at an angle perpendicular to the neck plate if I do this, right? Or would it be better to just keep them perpendicular to the top of the body? Is there a standard thickness for this part of the guitar? Quote
Scott Rosenberger Posted July 22, 2003 Report Posted July 22, 2003 ESP slants their Heel like that, just be carefull not to make it to thin as it could effect tuning stablilty Quote
krazyderek Posted July 22, 2003 Report Posted July 22, 2003 When I started building my guitar, I thought that 1 3/4" was the standard body thickness for a solid body guitar. I have routed my neck pocket (5/8") and test fitted the neck. Things are looking good but: The area where the neck joint screws will be going through (under the pocket) seems like it is a big cumbersome block of wood. I'm thinking of slanting it so that it is thinner near the higher strings and thicker at the lower strings. Does anyone else do this? I guess the screws would need to enter at an angle perpendicular to the neck plate if I do this, right? Or would it be better to just keep them perpendicular to the top of the body? Is there a standard thickness for this part of the guitar? AAAAAAALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLWWWWWWWWWWWAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS perpendicular to the neck, so if u were going to do a slanted one like on some RG's then u'd have to drill the holes first to ensure a nice 90 degree hole.. once u have the wholes drilled i sujest u just kinda follow brian's tutorial here http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/heal.htm the depth of the "taper" can vary anywheres from 1/16 to 4/16 depending on the wood... like basswood u probably shouldn't go over 3/16 or 4/16 (3/16 would probably be best for a good effect) where as with a big honkin maple or mahogany u could go like 5/16 or 6/16.... but then ur starting to get into creating a creater not a tapper and u might want to consider just planing the whole back face of the guitar down a bit unless there's some reason u need it that thick.. i've found that it's easier to setup a gig before u cut out the body shape to do this taper, i tried it on a guitar that was already cut out and i had to meditate for about 5 minutes before i did it as to hold the router level cause only half the base is actually supported by something. but the disc sander and a good eye can do just as good a job! Quote
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