Commercially Avaliable Tiger Eye Stain?

[Daniel Sorbera]

I've been having trouble mixingup a batch of tiger eye stain that I like.

I want it to look like this.

Does anyone make a tiger eye stain that I can just buy? Or any thoughts on a mix ratio to get that color?

[mledbetter]

One of myka's looked like that recently..

however, if I were to guess, i'd say just regular dyes but stain brown and sand back then go amber on top of that. Maybe leaving the edges a little darker to focus the effect towards the center enhancing the tiger eye illusion.

The contrast in that atom though, i would bet it was a 2 step staining job but with brown as a base stain rather than black.

[Doc]

I use Behlen Solar lux for most everything. It should take you about a half hour to do the whole thing, dry ready to shoot.

I'd start by staining it a medium brown. Something like a hickory. Sand it back a little. If it isn't dark enough use a darker brown, like American walnut. Hit it with thinned lemon yellow. Go over this with a very diluted brown until it kills enough of the yellow. Seal and shoot.

[AlGeeEater]

C'mon Godin, do some searching! Myka explaned to you directly what to do and where to get the products.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...ndpost&p=185672

And just for the hell of it, here's a picture tutorial:

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=12912

Edited August 19, 2005 by AlGeeEater

[Daniel Sorbera]

I tried searching but wasnt quite sure what to search for... I also was curious if a company made a pre mixed tiger eye stain.

[Drak]

Algee, you are getting a little big for your britches lately.

You don't know enough about finishes to see what is right in front of you, so back off, Godin is asking a very good question here and you are BS'ing him and giving wrong answers.

Let us take a look at everything that is involved in achieving a color, shall we, Mr. Smart-Ass?

1. The color of the wood itself. Even curly Maple like that pic comes in many many different shades of white (cream), reds, browns, and every color variance in between those, ala very white but with a tad of brown, bla bla bla... SO the basic color of the WOOD ITSELF will effect the colors you choose to use. You HAVE to take the color of the raw wood itself into consideration FIRST!

2. The QUALITY of the figure in the wood. You will never make an AA piece of Maple look like an AAAAA no matter how good you are or how many tricks you have in your finishing bag.

3. The dyes, colors, stains, whatever themselves... There are SO MANY ways to apply the colors, and they ALL make a difference as to how the final result will look.

-alcohol based colors look different than waterbased colors, even using the same color

-colors that are WIPED over other colors will come out very different than colors that are SPRAYED over other basecoat colors.

-colors that are sprayed WET over a basecoat color will come out differently than the same color that was sprayed on DRY (ala misted, ala lots of air, but little product going thru the gun) over the same basecoat color.

-if you're shooting over a basecoat sanded back dark color, the AMOUNT of SANDBACK that you do to the basecoat color will make a huge difference in the final look.

-if you're wiping, the amount you wipe off before you proceed with the next color will make a huge difference in the final look

4. The BURST. Gunned bursts will look different than airbrushed bursts, will look VERY different than wiped-on bursts, and the amount of FINESSING you do to the edges of the burst will effect the final look.

-did you do the basecoat colors AND bursted colors all on the wood, or did you do the basecoat colors on the wood, and do the burst in the toner, or shader coats?

It will make a difference in the final look.

A few asides...basecoat colors can be misleading sometimes, as Godin might be finding out for himself. I have found that sometimes, once you've done the initial basecoat color, sanded (oe wiped) it back, then applied the next color (typically your amber), sometimes it won't look right UNTIL you have the burst on it. Just the amber sitting on top of the basecoat color will sometimes just not look right, until you shoot the burst, then everything looks perfect.

Now, Mr Algee, I would politely ask you to explain to me in intricate detail how that finish in question was applied using the above options, or any others you might wish to add.

Then after you answer Godin's question with some detail, I would like you to show me your best burst-over-sandback job.

[Daniel Sorbera]

Some very good points Drak.

My peice of wood is mostly white with a hint of yellow in it.

I've been doing some testing and with my dyes and my peice of wood, this is what has givin me the best resulsts.

I stain black, stain brown, sand back, stain fender neck amber (this color is more yellow than anything), while still wet stain cherry red, when dry stain the neck amber again, than stain a diluted red mahogany over all that.

This has produced results that look prety darn close to Mykas double cut.

Edited August 20, 2005 by Godin SD

[Drak]

I would counsel you, but I want to see Algee's answer first.

[AlGeeEater]

Algee, you are getting a little big for your britches lately.

You don't know enough about finishes to see what is right in front of you, so back off, Godin is asking a very good question here and you are BS'ing him and giving wrong answers.

Let us take a look at everything that is involved in achieving a color, shall we, Mr. Smart-Ass?

1. The color of the wood itself. Even curly Maple like that pic comes in many many different shades of white (cream), reds, browns, and every color variance in between those, ala very white but with a tad of brown, bla bla bla... SO the basic color of the WOOD ITSELF will effect the colors you choose to use. You HAVE to take the color of the raw wood itself into consideration FIRST!

2. The QUALITY of the figure in the wood. You will never make an AA piece of Maple look like an AAAAA no matter how good you are or how many tricks you have in your finishing bag.

3. The dyes, colors, stains, whatever themselves... There are SO MANY ways to apply the colors, and they ALL make a difference as to how the final result will look.

-alcohol based colors look different than waterbased colors, even using the same color

-colors that are WIPED over other colors will come out very different than colors that are SPRAYED over other basecoat colors.

-colors that are sprayed WET over a basecoat color will come out differently than the same color that was sprayed on DRY (ala misted, ala lots of air, but little product going thru the gun) over the same basecoat color.

-if you're shooting over a basecoat sanded back dark color, the AMOUNT of SANDBACK that you do to the basecoat color will make a huge difference in the final look.

-if you're wiping, the amount you wipe off before you proceed with the next color will make a huge difference in the final look

4. The BURST. Gunned bursts will look different than airbrushed bursts, will look VERY different than wiped-on bursts, and the amount of FINESSING you do to the edges of the burst will effect the final look.

-did you do the basecoat colors AND bursted colors all on the wood, or did you do the basecoat colors on the wood, and do the burst in the toner, or shader coats?

It will make a difference in the final look.

A few asides...basecoat colors can be misleading sometimes, as Godin might be finding out for himself. I have found that sometimes, once you've done the initial basecoat color, sanded (oe wiped) it back, then applied the next color (typically your amber), sometimes it won't look right UNTIL you have the burst on it. Just the amber sitting on top of the basecoat color will sometimes just not look right, until you shoot the burst, then everything looks perfect.

Now, Mr Algee, I would politely ask you to explain to me in intricate detail how that finish in question was applied using the above options, or any others you might wish to add.

Then after you answer Godin's question with some detail, I would like you to show me your best burst-over-sandback job.

←

My britches, or my under britches?

Erm, I gave him a few links to point him in the wrong direction, what's wrong with that? He wanted to know where to get the stains. Myka's tutorial had the stains listed and the techniques he used. Why shouldnt I point him over there? I was just trying to be helpful

I don't have any intricate detail. Why should I? You pretty much summed it up and I have never done that type of finish. That was never an issue. Good job on writing it up though.

Best one? Sorry I don't have one! It's not like I ever said I have done everything the finishing world can imagine and them some. I guess next time I won't give any help(in whatever small way of it you see fit, or something like that).

[Drak]

Youre post, instead of saying, 'well look here, maybe this will help you', was more like 'look here dumbass'...like you knew what it was and were pointing him to the answer, and you weren't.

You can only be a smartass if you know what you're talking about and no one can catch you out in your own answers.

BTW, why do you feel the need to repost my entire post again, what sense did that make?

[AlGeeEater]

Youre post, instead of saying, 'well look here, maybe this will help you', was more like 'look here dumbass'...like you knew what it was and were pointing him to the answer, and you weren't.

You can only be a smartass if you know what you're talking about and no one can catch you out in your own answers. 

BTW, why do you feel the need to repost my entire post again, what sense did that make?

←

It wasnt really intended to be a smarta** comment. Must have just seemed that way to you. I was pointing him to the answer. Like I said before, and I will say it again Myka linked Godin previusly to the dyes he used.

Not sure, must have just been a brain fart or something. Big deal?

[rhoads56]

This has been discussed numerous times before Godin, retry searching.