SawDust_Junkie Posted August 26, 2005 Report Share Posted August 26, 2005 I found three Bubinga blanks at a local woodworking shop that are almost perfect. They are what you would probably call 6/4 (although I think they are probably closer to 8/4). They want about $45.00 each for them. The only problem is they are only 16" long. They are plenty wide enough though (about the same width as length). I can fit a LP Jr. DC design on them (barely), but not a LP. I know a Strat won't fit. Anybody got any other design ideas that would fit these blanks ? They also have three nice pieces of Bird'sEye Maple 36" x 4" by 4" that they want about $35.00 each for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted August 26, 2005 Report Share Posted August 26, 2005 Pm sent... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted August 26, 2005 Report Share Posted August 26, 2005 If the Birdsey is good looking material. That is a great price. I would buy them in a heartbeat for that price. 4"x36" is hard to find. As for the Bubinga get the size you need. If 16" is not long enough keep looking. You can find it from many sources. Good Luck!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawDust_Junkie Posted August 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2005 Your right fryovanni, I thought the same thing about the Bird's Eye. That is a great price. As for the Bubinga, I didn't really have any particular design in mind, I just saw those blanks they had in their scrap bin and they were nice looking pieces of Bubinga for a pretty good price also. I liked that they were wide enough to build a true one piece body, so I was just trying to kick around some ideas of a design that would fit the blanks. Since I can get these locally and wouldn't have to pay any shipping costs, I think 45.00 is a good price on the Bubinga too. These blanks had a nice grain to them also, and I was thinking of doing a Bubinga back with a flamed Maple top. I have seen some builds here that I think used that combo and they looked really nice. And Godin, thanks for the PM. I will try blowing that up and see what it looks like at full scale. You're right, I haven't been posting for awhile, although I am always lurking. I'm just in a slump right now. The project I am working on has been on hold for a couple of months because I pretty much wore out the cheap router I had bought from HF. I didn't want to take any chances using a router that I don't trust aymore and I don't want to spend money on a cheap tool again, so I am saving my money and waiting until I can afford Porter Cable fixed/plunge router kit. I have been doing some work though. Making MDF templates for the mortise and tenon on the neck and making a control cavity cover, drilling the holes for the pots and switch and so forth. Next I am going to start making MDF templates for doing the body carve. This is the project I am working on: http://www.mindspring.com/~ed5/Project/IMAG0183.JPG http://www.mindspring.com/~ed5/Project/IMAG0184.JPG http://www.mindspring.com/~ed5/Project/IMAG0186.JPG This was my practice project for doing my first set neck, so I took some White Oak firewood that has been setting under a tarp in my back yard for several years and started milling to see what I could get out of it. I ended up with some strips that I laminated together with some Mahogany to make a sort of cutting board body blank. This blank was not thick enough for a carve though, so I used it as a top with a White Oak back to keep the theme of the woods. The neck is made out of the same wood combination, White Oak/Mahogany, with a 13 degree headstock angle. It is going to be a 3x3 tuner setup with my own peg head design, similar to a Gibson. I will try to get a couple of pics posted of the neck. I am pleased with the way neck has come out so far, for my first scarf joint and all. I just wish I had used a volute, but hey, like I said, this is my practice project. This thing is heavy though so the pics in the last link show where I chambered the top to cut some of the weight down. The bottom portion you see with no chambering is were the control cavity will be. I am hoping that after doing the carve, rotuing the mortise for the neck, routing the pickup cavities and the control cavity, the weight will be alot better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay5 Posted August 26, 2005 Report Share Posted August 26, 2005 Hey man! I was wondering if you were still here. That project looks great! Where did you find the bubinga locally? I have been looking for a good wood source locally but without too much luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawDust_Junkie Posted August 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2005 I'll tell ya after I get the piece I want jay ! No, really, I'm serious ! (can't have everybody running around stealin my wood !) Yeah, I'm still here, just been lurking and reading , and like I said, my projects been on hold for most of the summer. Been busy gettin my oldest ready to move into the dorms at UNCW too. Thats kinda taken up alot of time this summer. Even though the one I'm working on now is a practice piece, I still want to take my time and try to do the best job I can. You know what they say "Practice doesn't make perfect, practice makes permanent. Perfect practice makes perfect !" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank falbo Posted August 26, 2005 Report Share Posted August 26, 2005 You could just do a downsized strat style, like a dinky. I mean I've never measured Jackson's dinky strat body, but between that, and the Washburn Nuno, I think you could do something that still looked offset, rather than an LP Jr. Try to design something so you're using less wood behind the bridge and more up by the neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay5 Posted August 26, 2005 Report Share Posted August 26, 2005 I'll tell ya after I get the piece I want jay ! Hahahaha, fair enough Why not make a cool lap steel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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