Routers & Routing Tables

[Grim]

Newbie here, working on my 2nd guitar. First one really doesn't count as it was a Warmoth Neck & Body, and I did none of the cutting, trimming, sanding or finishing.

I have decided that I my approach will be pretty basic. I'll use a router and router table to cut the initial outline, and get as deep as I can with the router ( all the way through with 1" billets, but I've got 3 2" billets that will need to be cut multiple times to get all the way through).

I've currently got an old router my dad gave me, an old Sears Craftsman 1 3/4 HP that's about 20 years old, and a small router table.

I'm considering making a major investment in a new router and router table. The testosterone voice tells me to get a 3 HP Router from hell that can cut through purpleheart like it's butter. Get a BenchDog routing table with the lifting system, soundproof the interior of the routing table to cut down on noise.

The beancounter voice in my head is telling me to get by with the router I've got until I'm better at this whole electric guitar thing. If I choose to upgrade anything, upgrade the desktop drill press to one that can take a 3/8" shank on a robo-sander. Use the router to rough the outline, then use the robosander on the drill press to get a tighter tolerance around my template.

What are y'all using for routers, routing tables and the like?

Sincerely,

Grim

[ByronBlack]

Newbie here, working on my 2nd guitar. First one really doesn't count as it was a Warmoth Neck & Body, and I did none of the cutting, trimming,  sanding or finishing.

I have decided that I my approach will be pretty basic. I'll use a router and router table to cut the initial outline, and get as deep as I can with the router ( all the way through with 1" billets, but I've got 3 2" billets that will need to be cut multiple times to get all the way through).

I've currently got an old router my dad gave me, an old Sears Craftsman 1 3/4 HP that's about 20 years old, and a small router table.

I'm considering making a major investment in a new router and router table. The testosterone voice tells me to get a 3 HP Router from hell that can cut through purpleheart like it's butter. Get a BenchDog routing table with the lifting system, soundproof the interior of the routing table to cut down on noise.

The beancounter voice in my head is telling me to get by with the router I've got until I'm better at this whole electric guitar thing. If I choose to upgrade anything, upgrade the desktop drill press to one that can take a 3/8" shank on a robo-sander. Use the router to rough the outline, then use the robosander on the drill press to get a tighter tolerance around my template.

What are y'all using for routers, routing tables and the like?

Sincerely,

Grim

←

Hi Grim, i've recently upgraded my Ryobi to a Trend 1/5 router - its very good and definitly comes recommended, however i'm assuming you are in the USA - not sure if you have Trend overthere.

As for router-tables, I would strongly suggest buying 'Router Magic' - this book is fantastic and has plans for loads of router jigs, and has a whole section on router-tables, even a free-standing router station.

I think you might benefit from a saw to cut out your initial shape, and then use the router to trim using a template and flush-trim cutter - I get the impression you want to use your router to cut out the body-shape from a blank? I did something similar to this on a different project, and had very nasty results including a router that ended up burnt-out, although to be fair it was a cheap router.

[Bytrix]

What model is that Trend router you have ? I've been looking around at which router to get but I really have no idea what's suitable, everyone talks about HP rating but over here in the UK all the sites selling them list Watts/RPM, and I have no idea how that translates into HP.

[unclej]

i've got a 3 horse makita and converted the right hand extension on my table saw to be my router table. that way i can use the rip fence that came with the saw if i'm doing things like raised panel doors or remove it for free hand stuff...'course if you don't have a table saw it would probably be hard to do that.

by the way, the 3 horse makita is a monster..in fact it scared hell out of me the first time i put a big bit into it..makes a sound like an airplane taking off but i haven't seen any wood that it won't handle with ease.

[jay5]

Here's my home-made router table. I made the table to rout out neck profiles so the table is larger than most commercially available tables I have see. It comes in at 36"X24". I need to build a better fence but that one is doing the few jobs I se it for well. I broke down and bought a 2.25 HP Bosch 1617EVSrouter and it is awesome! It was the kit and came with the edge guide and both plunge and fixed bases. I mounted the fixed base inthe table where it stays and use the plunge base for everything else. I got it for ~$200 from Amazon.com. For the sheer utility of the router and router table setup I would buy the absolute best you can afford. I would avoid routers limited to 1/4" collets. I think the Bosch or Porter Cable 690(?) are the two best routers out there for general purpose work. Check Amazon.com as they tend to run sales pretty often. They actually have a $25 off thing that I used way back when I got mine.

Now to address your idea of using the robosander. I have one of those too. I found, quite by accident I suppose that the course grit sleeves on my robo sander do NOT take it right to the edge of the template. They seem to leave a bit under 1/16" of material. This probably isnt a big deal on a body, but on a neck it can have an impact. My method thus evolved into this; I rough cut the neck, attach my template and then take it to the robosander to bring it down as close as it will go. Then I take it to the router table and with a 3-flute Whiteside template bit I trim it to final shape. I learned early on that the router doesnt like to take off a ton of material. Even 1/16" can cause it to tear out some wood in certain areas where the grain isnt supported. I ruined several neck blanks before I figured out the right recipe. I have had nothing but success with this method. Just an idea Oh, here is my drill press tablefor use with my robosander.

[Doc]

I usually either get pasted or ignored when I wadein here but here goes.

I made a living woodworking for twenty or so years and most of my work was done with hand tools, a table saw (Delta Unisaw 5hp) an Inca bandsaw and routers. Before my last shop partner died last year I think we had, no lie, over thirty routers between us. Probably more. Everything from ancient Sears 1hp that were set up with a straight cutter to do only one thing to Elu plunges and old variable speed Porter Cable 3hps.

I would recommend that you get either a Porter Cable 1 7/8 horse kit with the two bases or the Bosch 1617 touted in the last post. There are lots of dead routers in our dead tool box in the corner. There are no Bosch or Porter cables routers in there, except for badly abused laminate trimmers.

I am a tightwad and expect my tools to last damn near forever, to work as well tomorrow as today and when they don't I want them to be rebuildable for a reasonable price and to work as well as they did new. Those two makes really fill the bill.

My main router is a 20 year old Elu 3hp plunge, but they are really expensive and the new ones don't have the reputation of my old dinosaur.

I have Milwaukees and they're okay. The bearings get funky if you rout a lot of Corion or other solid surface stuff, and I do.

I have had only negative experiences with the Japanese companies repair systems and parts availability and pricing.

I have a Hitachi and a Makita that I inherited from somewhere. They don't get much use.

I'd recommend building your own router table. There are scads of plans in the woodworking magazines. you can buy the router lifts by themselves and all of the channels and parts to make a professional fence. (Fine Woodworking has run some good reviews of them.) The advantage that adds to the cost savings is that you can make it the size that works for what you do and fits your shop space, not what the manufacturer's design guys think that you need.

Bench Dog stuff is top drawer. I know the guys who run the company and feel good giving money to people who give you what you need for a fair price. No corners cut with their stuff.

Hope this helps.

[Grim]

I usually either get pasted or ignored when I wadein here but here goes.

I made a living woodworking for twenty or so years and most of my work was done with hand tools, a table saw (Delta Unisaw 5hp) an Inca bandsaw and routers. Before my last shop partner died last year I think we had, no lie, over thirty routers between us. Probably more. Everything from ancient Sears 1hp that were set up with a straight cutter to do only one thing to Elu plunges and old variable speed Porter Cable 3hps.

I would recommend that you get either a Porter Cable 1 7/8 horse kit with the two bases or the Bosch 1617 touted in the last post. There are lots of dead routers in our dead tool box in the corner. There are no Bosch or  Porter cables routers in there, except for badly abused laminate trimmers.

I am a tightwad and expect my tools to last damn near forever, to work as well tomorrow as today and when they don't I want them to be rebuildable for a reasonable price and to work as well as they did new. Those two  makes really fill the bill.

My main router is a 20 year old Elu 3hp plunge, but they are really expensive and the new ones don't have the reputation of my old dinosaur.

I have Milwaukees and they're okay. The bearings get funky if you rout a lot of Corion or other solid surface stuff, and I do.

I have had only negative experiences with the Japanese companies repair systems and parts availability and pricing.

I have a Hitachi and a Makita that I inherited from somewhere. They don't get much use.

I'd recommend building your own router table. There are scads of plans in the woodworking magazines. you can buy the router lifts by themselves and all of the channels and parts to make a professional fence. (Fine Woodworking has run some good reviews of them.) The advantage that adds to the cost savings is that you can make it the size that works for what you do and fits your shop space, not what the manufacturer's design guys think that you  need.

Bench Dog stuff is top drawer. I know the guys who run the company and feel good giving money to people who give you what you need for a fair price. No corners cut with their stuff.

Hope this helps.

←

I've learned alot from all of the posts in this thread. It helps me a great deal. I'm just starting out and I have a lot to learn, but I'd rather listen at the knee of vets and make fewer mistakes, rather than go off half-cocked and end up with the nick name "8-Finger Bob" .

I love jay5's router table. But ESP? No PRS stickers around? I'd like to also thank Doc for the router advice. I've got lots of experience with routers, but they usually have the name Cisco on there somewhere.

[jer7440]

Jay5, I like the looks of that drill press table. Very nice.

[jay5]

Thanks guys! PRS never sent me a catalog or any stickers The drill press table was really slapped together. I plan on making a new one soon. It is really usefull though. I cant imagine using the little metal table.

[Grim]

Took my plunge into the world of routers. Amazon had a factory-reconditioned Bosch 1617 2-HP with both the plunge and fixed bases for about $140.00. I saw the 3 HP Makita and decided to get it when I want to build something really dangerous - and that will be awhile.

I'm taking jay5's advice, and I'll build my own router table... might even get oe of those lift things for Christmas too.

Thanks for all the help.

[jay5]

NICE!!! You will really like the Bosch. Hell, for $140 I might pick up another.

[Grim]

NICE!!! You will really like the Bosch. Hell, for $140 I might pick up another.

←

You'll obviously need to get a new routing table if you go that route. I'd be more than happy to help you clear out some space in your shop by relieving you of that old router table you won't be needing...

[jay5]

Man, that table was quick and easy. It's a 3/4" piece of melamie topped particle board ($10) sandwiched to a piece of 3/4" MDF ($8). I built a frame from some 3/4" pine and then just slapped some legs from an old table on it. Really an easy project and I use it all the time.

[Doc]

Jay,

Now do yourself a favor and upgrade the puppy by getting a Benchdog miter guide insert, routing a slot for it and screwing it in place. This allows you to make all kinds of nifty jigs and also lets you do some operations more safely. People forget how much damage a router can do. Don't get complacent!

Grim,

Step away from the bad blue-green tool. Look at a 3hp Porter-Cable or Milwaukee. Just my experience, but a lot more bang for the buck. Makita's seem to work best in their advertising, which is top drawer.

[jay5]

I really didnt want to clutter up the surface of the table with any miter guages or t-tracks. You'll notice that there is no insert plate and the fence isnt attached to tracks. I wanted as few obstructions as possible on there. I have no doubt that I could come up with some sweet jigs, but until I really find one I need, Im gonna leave it as is. Right nor it works really well for template routing neck profiles, body shapes and doing the roundover on a body. Thats really all I use it for.

It looks like Grim got the Bosch router, which I think is a good all purpose router. I wouldnt feel comfortable myself using a 3hp beast that wasnt in a table. I think the Bosch will be good for him as it has enough power to be used in a table but isnt so huge that you cant hand-rout stuff.

[Grim]

Grim,

Step away from the bad blue-green tool. Look at a 3hp Porter-Cable or Milwaukee. Just my experience, but a lot more bang for the buck. Makita's seem to work best in their advertising, which is top drawer.

←

Doc,

Already took the advice you gave in a previous post. As a starter, I shopped around, and when you can get a better than average router for minimal outlay, I had to jump. Yeah, it's factory-reconditioned and warranteedd for a year and comes with both bases. 2.25 horses should be all I'll need to get going, and I know my little shop is going to evolve - and I'll need my forearms to evolve before I feel comfortable wrapping my mits around a 3-hp router. Your advice is appreciated.

I picked up a Rousseau Table plate, working on my router table this weekend and next. I will be taking 2 pieces of 24 x 48 MDF and gluing them together, mounting legs and tracks and building a fence. Sometimes it's nice having a wife with a PhD in Mechanical Engineering, and she's giving me some great advice too.

Baby steppin',

Grim

[doug]

I found building the table to be the most rewarding. Not in terms of build time, however the end result is a table designed for what you need it for. I have made several over the years, and each was created for versatility.

You can see the current on in the shop pictures on my site

Shop Pictures with router table

The top is 2" thick, and I use a phenolic table inserts for each of the routers. The entire table was built from the ground up for functionality. The box surrounding the router itself has a Lexan door, and a 5" rear dust chute. I now have an overhead arm that holds a 4" dust collection port too for use when open routing.

The reason for the large dust port on the bottom box is because I made a very low profile down draft table that mounts to the top. With the router removed there is a huge hole for the air to be drawn through. This thing is amazing. There is such a draft that even when sanding off the side of the table, it draws the dust right in.

To the top I mounted an Incra Ultra 24. This is the most amazing fence system I have ever used, bar none.

Incra

One thing I can't stress enough is the need for the whole thing to be solid as a rock so when you're using it there is no stability issues. On the bottom shelf I have 80 pounds of sand in a container for sheer ballast.

I can say without reservation this table is about the most used tool in the shop.

The reason I built this one is because there just wasn't a product out there that could provide the versatility I wanted.

Build your own, it's the only way to go!

-Doug

[ryanb]

Most of this has already be said here. I have about 7 routers in my collection. The 3+ HP monsters are great for doing heavy cutting in a good table, but they are miserable to use handheld. They are too heavy to control on delicate work, and you don't need that kind of power for any handheld cutting (or else you are cutting too much at once). Something like the 1-3/4 HP Porter-Cable is a much more versatile and useable choice to start out with. When you are ready to progress on, you can spend the big money for the big motor and a fancy table lift mechanism ... and maybe add a trim router for the smaller work. A high-quality, mid-size router (PC, Bosch, DeWalt, etc.), preferably with both fixed and plunge bases, is the real workhorse.