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Wierd Manufacture Problem For Intonation


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OK, I used my brain and checked BEFORE I made the guitar as to where I should put the bridge - I measured nut - 12th fret an d then measured 12th fret to where saddle should be - both the same measurement.

Great, fit saddle and string up - set intonation. By golly do i have to have the saddles way back (not quite at th end of the settings) - what went wrong? They are all really far back and I double checked my measurements too.

There's about 1/2" different from where it should b to have the saddles pretty central on their adjustment.

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That's not exactly true. The high E should require little or no intonation adjustment, and can be placed at the mathematical location so long as it's at the far front of it's travel. The Stew Mac calculator is telling you where to put the screw holes (or stud holes) for the particular bridges. And the first one (Tele) is farther back because the saddles can go farther forward than the screws.

Edited by frank falbo
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What kinda bridge are you using chunkie? If its a TOM then the bass side should be set about 3/16" to 1/4" longer than the treble side. That ensures that all saddles are roughly in the middle of their adjustment range when properly intonated.

then fit at 2X the nut

Whats that mean?

Edited by Southpa
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What kinda bridge are you using chunkie?  If its a TOM then the bass side should be set about 3/16" to 1/4" longer than the treble side.  That ensures that all saddles are roughly in the middle of their adjustment range when properly intonated.

then fit at 2X the nut

Whats that mean?

I think he means that he fit the bridge at twice (or 2x) the distance from the 12th fret to nut. It confused me also at first.. lol

Like Frank said, the Stew Mac Calc shows where to mount the post, or bridge screws on a particular bridge. I just always set all the adjustments as far forward as they will go, and measure from the takeoff point on the little E string bridge saddle, to the takeoff point from the nut, which is where it meets the fingerboard. The saddles will never need to be closer than the scale length, only exactly the same or more to intonate properly. I hope this makes sense.

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:D +1

Peace,

Dave

What kinda bridge are you using chunkie?  If its a TOM then the bass side should be set about 3/16" to 1/4" longer than the treble side.  That ensures that all saddles are roughly in the middle of their adjustment range when properly intonated.

then fit at 2X the nut

Whats that mean?

I think he means that he fit the bridge at twice (or 2x) the distance from the 12th fret to nut. It confused me also at first.. lol

Like Frank said, the Stew Mac Calc shows where to mount the post, or bridge screws on a particular bridge. I just always set all the adjustments as far forward as they will go, and measure from the takeoff point on the little E string bridge saddle, to the takeoff point from the nut, which is where it meets the fingerboard. The saddles will never need to be closer than the scale length, only exactly the same or more to intonate properly. I hope this makes sense.

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What kinda bridge are you using chunkie?  If its a TOM then the bass side should be set about 3/16" to 1/4" longer than the treble side.  That ensures that all saddles are roughly in the middle of their adjustment range when properly intonated.

then fit at 2X the nut

Whats that mean?

The quote should have been

then fit at 2X the nut to 12th fret measurement.

That makes more sense! :D

So, in future, I should measure nut - 12th fret. Then double it and that's the most foreward I'll need to be with the saddles FULLY toward the nut?

I'm using a custom bridge/saddles off ebay http://i5.ebayimg.com/03/i/04/e7/0a/0f_1_b.JPG

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Get it right, man.

I agree. Especially since your bridge is very easy to place properly, and the old screw holes won't hardly show. Come on, it'll only take you 10 minutes!

I was able to get my tele pretty much intonated also --but it still didn't feel quite right. I moved it to the proper position, and now it feels great. (And I had to rout out the pickup cavity to move mine)

Maybe it's just my imagination, but the guitar really wanted to be in the correct scale, not just for the intonation, but for the tension (feel) as well?

Anyway, I looked at your bridge...the neck-side holes will likely show a bit when you move the bridge back...but it shouldn't be too difficult to hide those ...you'll have to fill them of course.

It looks like it might be possible to move the bridge back by just a couple of millmeters, you can coax the edge of the bridge to the very edge of the old screw holes. I'm willing to bet that after that, you'll barely see them as a shadow.

Think of it this way, at least you don't have to move a TOM!

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I've considered re-doing the finish anyway to a solid colour - surrently has a black flamed top and black stained mahoganny back with solid black sides. I want to move it but can only do so if I refinish the guitar - let's see.

On the one saddle that isn't quite right, we're talking about an 1/16 of a semi tone out here - only hearable by a tuner and someone with absolute perfect pitch - generally it'll play fine. I may just leaveit as is so I can get to play it and start my next project - it's not an issue as such just a bloody pain that I didn't find this out before fitting the brigde.

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Think of it this way, at least you don't have to move a TOM!

Yeah, I can vouch for that being no fun. Break out the solid colour re-fin, or make a really funky pickguard. :D Those darn saddles don't have much travel on those things.

After screwing it up once, I just ended up making a moveable TOM bridge, similar to some archtop jazzboxs, I guess. Flat piece of wood with dowels instead of screwposts, pop the bridge on that, stick shims between to get the right height. Piece of felt underneath to protect the finish. String it up and figure out exactly where that darn things goes. The dowels have the centers drilled out for a tiny drill bit, so I can mark where everything goes in the end without unstringing it and losing it's position, or tring to mark around the bridge. It's not very professional, I suppose, but it calms my fears about putting such big holes in my guitar.

I don't know how anyone has the courage to mount a tremelo. What happens if you route the whole shebang in the wrong place?

Edited by j. pierce
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I don't know how anyone has the courage to mount a tremelo.  What happens if you route the whole shebang in the wrong place?

Then its time for a new body lol.

already done that lol, did for a floyd it was a truly dishartening f**kup, i just bought stewmac templates :D then i plugged up the post holes routed out a block of maple and glued it in the hole, then re routed it all, with the trem recess you cant tell i screwed it up. but seriously, i didnt read up properly on where to put the hole so it was half an inch too far forward, it was tempting to throw away the body and start afresh but i thought id learn from the mistake. and i definately have :D

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