SamIAmUBUF Posted December 9, 2005 Report Share Posted December 9, 2005 (edited) I've spent a good portion of the past week in the machine shop, and I'm about ready to shape the neck and glue the through-body neck to the wings (after finals week that is). Then, I'll be ready to pull out the router and go to town. any final suggestions or insight? I could especially use suggestions regarding the shape of the electronics cavity. I have yet to make a final decision with regard to that. Thanks for your help Edited December 9, 2005 by SamIAmUBUF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supernova9 Posted December 9, 2005 Report Share Posted December 9, 2005 I've spent a good portion of the past week in the machine shop, and I'm about ready to shape the neck and glue the through-body neck to the wings (after finals week that is). Then, I'll be ready to pull out the router and go to town. any final suggestions or insight? I couls especially use suggestions regarding the shape of the electronics cavity. I have yet to make a final decision with regard to that. Thanks for your help ← What electronics are you fitting? I'd reckon you'd just want the smallest cavity the electronics require - why detract any more from the wood of the bass? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamIAmUBUF Posted December 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2005 I've spent a good portion of the past week in the machine shop, and I'm about ready to shape the neck and glue the through-body neck to the wings (after finals week that is). Then, I'll be ready to pull out the router and go to town. any final suggestions or insight? I couls especially use suggestions regarding the shape of the electronics cavity. I have yet to make a final decision with regard to that. Thanks for your help ← What electronics are you fitting? I'd reckon you'd just want the smallest cavity the electronics require - why detract any more from the wood of the bass? ← I have duncan basslines 3-band (low and high are stacked) and an onboard mini overdrive, which takes up as much room as a normal pot. The body design is modeled after a ritter raptor so having a subsantial amount of wood shouldn't be a problem either way, but I still agree with you 100% on a side note, I'll have pictures once I have access to a camera Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted December 9, 2005 Report Share Posted December 9, 2005 Did you cut out your body profile yet? I recomend you get your wings pretty close to their final profile before gluing them up. It'll save you some headaches later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamIAmUBUF Posted December 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2005 Did you cut out your body profile yet? I recomend you get your wings pretty close to their final profile before gluing them up. It'll save you some headaches later. ← yeah. I'm still working on the final touches, but it's close. I really wish I had some pics for you, but I'm too cheap to buy a camera. I'm upset that nobody's commented on the name yet. Sigh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haggardguy Posted December 9, 2005 Report Share Posted December 9, 2005 I like the name. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted December 9, 2005 Report Share Posted December 9, 2005 I would hope that you want to impress us more with your build quality than with a punny name(6 string, 6 shooter, revolver we get it). You can't have a thread on a build without a picture of it when you finish...it's the unwritten rule . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamIAmUBUF Posted December 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2005 I would hope that you want to impress us more with your build quality than with a punny name(6 string, 6 shooter, revolver we get it). You can't have a thread on a build without a picture of it when you finish...it's the unwritten rule . ← what's worse is, I got the name from my favorite drink at the local coffeehouse (a 6-shot latte) again, I promise I'll get you pictures. possibly one with my feet in it, so I can join the rest of you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piedpiperX2000 Posted December 9, 2005 Report Share Posted December 9, 2005 lolol join the reeest of uussss WWAAA HSIUDHASIDUAHSIDUAH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted December 10, 2005 Report Share Posted December 10, 2005 LOVE the Raptor body shape, I hope to get around to one some day. BTW, when you cut the wings to shape, try to do it in one pass on the bandsaw, and save the offcuts to use as clamping cauls. Otherwise you won't have a flat surface for the clamps to bite onto, which will make the wings want to slip on the neck blank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamIAmUBUF Posted December 10, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2005 (edited) LOVE the Raptor body shape, I hope to get around to one some day. BTW, when you cut the wings to shape, try to do it in one pass on the bandsaw, and save the offcuts to use as clamping cauls. Otherwise you won't have a flat surface for the clamps to bite onto, which will make the wings want to slip on the neck blank. ← I've saved all of the wood from cutting the body, so I will be sure to do that. thanks for the advice Edited December 10, 2005 by SamIAmUBUF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamIAmUBUF Posted December 10, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2005 A lot of people have given the advice that titebond is the glue to use for almost all purposes, but has anyone ever actually used gorilla glue for attaching body wings? My neck-body joint is going to be extremely tight and you can go ahead and assume that I'm clamping it as if it's trying to escape. I want to hear someone sat they've tried it on a similar application and it was successful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted December 10, 2005 Report Share Posted December 10, 2005 A lot of people have given the advice that titebond is the glue to use for almost all purposes, but has anyone ever actually used gorilla glue for attaching body wings? My neck-body joint is going to be extremely tight and you can go ahead and assume that I'm clamping it as if it's trying to escape. I want to hear someone sat they've tried it on a similar application and it was successful ← On the MIMF, there seems to be a general dislike of Gorilla Glue as PU glues go (others are better, apparently). Also...why do you want to use gorilla glue? You realize that titebond is more than strong enough, easier to use/clamp, leaves a less visible glue line? I don't see any advantage to use a polyurethane glue in this application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamIAmUBUF Posted December 10, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2005 (edited) A lot of people have given the advice that titebond is the glue to use for almost all purposes, but has anyone ever actually used gorilla glue for attaching body wings? My neck-body joint is going to be extremely tight and you can go ahead and assume that I'm clamping it as if it's trying to escape. I want to hear someone sat they've tried it on a similar application and it was successful ← On the MIMF, there seems to be a general dislike of Gorilla Glue as PU glues go (others are better, apparently). Also...why do you want to use gorilla glue? You realize that titebond is more than strong enough, easier to use/clamp, leaves a less visible glue line? I don't see any advantage to use a polyurethane glue in this application. ← because I already have a bottle. there's no sense in buying something else if this works well. wouldn't you agree? also, I have a lot of experience using gorilla glue, and I've never had a problem with clamping, and I have yet to see a visible glue line after removing the excess and sanding. I just figued that, since I've never had a problem with it in any other situation, it might work here too. Your opinion is well taken. I'm leaning toward buying titebond if nobody here has used gg for this. Thanks for your input Edited December 10, 2005 by SamIAmUBUF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted December 10, 2005 Report Share Posted December 10, 2005 Don't use poly. It's great for glueing dissimilar materials together, but for glueing wood to wood, I recommend wood glue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamIAmUBUF Posted December 10, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2005 Don't use poly. It's great for glueing dissimilar materials together, but for glueing wood to wood, I recommend wood glue ← titebond:2 gorilla glue:0 you win, I'll buy the good stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lietuvis Posted December 11, 2005 Report Share Posted December 11, 2005 Let's make it: Titebond: 3 GG: 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marksound Posted December 11, 2005 Report Share Posted December 11, 2005 Just to be clear: Titebond Original, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lietuvis Posted December 11, 2005 Report Share Posted December 11, 2005 I've used both, and so far I haven't seen any difference in their performance, once they have dried. I guess time will tell... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted December 11, 2005 Report Share Posted December 11, 2005 Titebond II (and III, methinks) is only marginally stronger, dries less hard, and is subject to more creep than Titebond original. It's OK for places that need to stay together when hot and wet (ie, laminated binding/purfling that needs heat bending), but I don't see any advantages to using it otherwise. I've seen plenty of potential disadvantages, though, so it's Original all the way for me, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamIAmUBUF Posted December 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2005 Titebond II (and III, methinks) is only marginally stronger, dries less hard, and is subject to more creep than Titebond original. It's OK for places that need to stay together when hot and wet (ie, laminated binding/purfling that needs heat bending), but I don't see any advantages to using it otherwise. I've seen plenty of potential disadvantages, though, so it's Original all the way for me, thanks. ← that seems to be everyone's opinion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamIAmUBUF Posted December 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2005 Just to be clear: Titebond Original, right? ← yeah, the original Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted December 11, 2005 Report Share Posted December 11, 2005 Others should comment on this, but......I do believe it is possible to clamp TOO tightly. If you have really well-planed glue surfaces that mate perfectly, and very closed-pore wood on either side, it is possible to clamp too tight and squeeze out too much glue, leaving you with a weak joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted December 11, 2005 Report Share Posted December 11, 2005 I've heard from one person, ever, who's managed to starve a glue joint (and that was hot hide, which is fiddlier). Look at the reccomended clamping pressures you see on the back of a bottle of titebond. Then do some math. You'll probably find there's no way you'll ever achieve that much pressure. Wood glues need minimal film thickness, less is better, to work properly. Clamp it good 'n strong, and don't worry about it overmuch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted December 11, 2005 Report Share Posted December 11, 2005 Others should comment on this, but......I do believe it is possible to clamp TOO tightly. If you have really well-planed glue surfaces that mate perfectly, and very closed-pore wood on either side, it is possible to clamp too tight and squeeze out too much glue, leaving you with a weak joint. ← I just read somewhere else that suggested that instead of gluing two perfectly planed surfaces that you rough up the surfaces with coarse sandpaper first --the idea is that your raise the fibers, which then mesh together with the glue, strengthening the joint and making it possible to achieve a near invisible glue line. Now, that's a long sentence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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