Stew Posted January 22, 2006 Report Posted January 22, 2006 I'm about to take on my first binding project. I've been eyeballin' those Dremel attachments for routing out the canal to place binding. I'm very handy and comfortable with the Multi power Dremel tool and was wondering if anyone has had success with this attachment? BTW, anyone have some great tutorals on applying binding? - Stew Quote
thegarehanman Posted January 22, 2006 Report Posted January 22, 2006 Dremels tend to be a bit underpowered when it comes to routing for binding. I routed binding channels on 1 guitar with a dremel multi pro and I won't do it again. Using stewmac's/lmii's router bit set is soo much easier. peace, russ Quote
Mattia Posted January 22, 2006 Report Posted January 22, 2006 My 2 cents: I have the StewMac dremel router base and the edge guide. I've done 3 or so guitars with it. I've still been using it for headstock binding. IMO, a dremel is only just about strong enough to do multi-pass routing for headstock binding; thin, shallow cuts. It's utterly and completely underpowered and not accurate enough to deal with body binding. Get a laminate trimmer and use an edge guide similar to the dremel one (they exist) and a downcut spiral bit, or get get the binding router bit sets that StewMac and/or LMI sell. But please use something with enough power for the job if at all possible; the dremel is not it. Quote
Stew Posted January 23, 2006 Author Report Posted January 23, 2006 Thanks, I'll ditch the Dremel idea. Plus I think you saved me from having to buy another Dremel tool due to burn up. - Stew Quote
johnsilver Posted January 24, 2006 Report Posted January 24, 2006 FWIW, I've used a Dremel with Stewmac's router base and edge guide to bind a couple of guitars, including a LP style with 7 layer binding on the front, 5 layer binding on the back and 3 layer binding on the headstock. It worked ok, but I did make numerous passes - it didn't take very long and I wasn't in a hurry. I ended up having to use it with the edge guide on the LP because I carved the top before I cut the binding channel (which was stupid). Quote
verhoevenc Posted January 24, 2006 Report Posted January 24, 2006 They're a PAIN in the butt to actually get on your Dremel is you've got a 400 XPR series.... it CAN be done... but it takes some fiddling and do-hickery. Chris Quote
rlrhett Posted January 24, 2006 Report Posted January 24, 2006 I can't say that I am terribly happy with the dremel and Stew Mac binding channel attachment. First of all, adjusting the highth of the cut is very difficult. You set the bit and tighten it down. Then you screw on the guide to see how deep it will cut. Usually it is slightly off (and on binding "slightly" REALLY matters). No good so.. You un-screw the guide and make an eyeball adjustment. Rinse, wash, repeat. Secondly, it simply seems impossible to get a consistent depth (thickness) on the channel. I make multiple passes on a flat top guitar and still I seem to get a lot of variation in the depth and a little wander in the up/down dimension of the cut. In short, if there was a reasonably priced jig for my regular router I would never use the Dremel again. Unfortunately, pattern bits with exactly calibrated difference between bearing and cutter are hard to find. I think LMI has them for their usual outrageous mark-up. Anyone know of a reasonably priced alternative? Quote
thegarehanman Posted January 25, 2006 Report Posted January 25, 2006 Stewmac has a set as well. That's the one I have. It cost me $80(I think); I have heard that lmii's is substantially better than stewmac's(and it comes with more bearings). I have had nothing but excellent results with stewmac's cutter/bearings though. I consider it an accurate and durable product for what it costs considering good cutters are normally kind of pricey anyhow. If you're going to the bind bodies, necks, and/or headstocks on several guitars, you'll thank yourself for getting one of these sets. peace, russ Quote
erikbojerik Posted January 25, 2006 Report Posted January 25, 2006 Unfortunately, pattern bits with exactly calibrated difference between bearing and cutter are hard to find. A few wraps of tape on the right bearing helps with getting just the right edge depth. Quote
rlrhett Posted January 29, 2006 Report Posted January 29, 2006 Unfortunately, pattern bits with exactly calibrated difference between bearing and cutter are hard to find. A few wraps of tape on the right bearing helps with getting just the right edge depth. Dont you have the problem of the tape falling off? Maybe I'm using the wrong kind of tape, but I had the same issue with the Stew Mac neck pocket template. It is oversized and you are supposed to use tape. The tape would just fall off the smooth steel bearing as soon as I started routing. Didn't try with other tape. I just assumed it would all be the same. Quote
thegarehanman Posted January 29, 2006 Report Posted January 29, 2006 (edited) Then put the tape on the pattern, not the bit. I'd recomend green masking tape. Edited January 29, 2006 by thegarehanman Quote
Davis guitars Posted May 25, 2006 Report Posted May 25, 2006 oh gawd yes i love mine its so nice and easy Quote
WezV Posted June 3, 2006 Report Posted June 3, 2006 I have the dremel attachment and the router/bearing set from stew-mac, i havnt used the dremel attachment since i brought the router/bearing set. Quote
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