Druss Posted February 26, 2006 Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 (edited) "Do you have a firm grip?" If so I really need you to hold my hand through this. After I'm done I think a mod can just move this whole thing to the "What mistakes to avoid thread" Heres a link to a thread I started about this project just to let you know the reason for this build. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=22032 I am a bass player so my goal is to eventually build myself a bass using this same idea it's just cheaper to build a guitar and I do like to pick around on a guitar so I will get some use out of it but it's mostly a learning experience. Thats not to say I'm not taking this seriously I am I just realize theres going to be mistakes made (a lot of them). Specs: (for now) Neck through (24 fret 25" scale from Carvin) Body wings local cherry (Arkansas) not even sure what all kinds of cherry we have, a guy I work with gave me the board from a tree he cut off his land. It's been stacked in a barn for eight years so it should be ready (I hope). The board was 10' long and 3/4" x 10" again I hope thats going to be thick enough. After all the sanding it's going to be just shy of 1 1/2" thick. Hardware and electronics: Not even worried about that right now! After I cut the slightly warped edges of the board I was able to get four 19 1/2" blanks for my wings. I tried to flatten them with sand paper gave up on that went and bought an electric planer $60.00 come to find out you need to develop your skills to use one so I went and bought me a belt sander $60.00 and I still wasn't satisfied. So I took them to a local cabinet shop and had it done for $15.00 I don't feel to bad about it because I will learn how to use them for my next build. Progress so far: I've glued the blanks together and I'm pretty sure I used way to much glue and if I did then it will just be another lesson learned. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0058.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0066.jpg According to some of the searches I've done you you need a lot of clamps and you don't need that many, you need to clamp them down as tight as you can and you really don't need that much pressure 10 pounds at the most. I guess you can see where I'm going with this so I went with the more the better if this isn't the right way then I'll know next time. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0067.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0064.jpg Hopefully I'll have some more pics by the end of the day, I'm going to try to get the edges flat with my new electric planner and if that doesn't work I have a belt sander too. Edited February 26, 2006 by Druss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokeros Posted February 26, 2006 Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 Dude that is way too much glue. The wood is gonna move so much and is highly likely to be not straight when you unclamp. Use your finger to spread the glue thinnly around the whole surfaces on both side just enough to see that that glue is present. but no need for a bath.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Druss Posted February 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 I've already removed the clamps, they were left on for over a week so maybe I got lucky. I didn't even try to even up the boards while gluing I'm planning on flatting the edge that I'm gluing to the neck and just cutting the rest out. After I did this glue up and read a little more into it I new I used way to much glue I almost didn't even post pics of it because of how ridiculous it looks but maybe another first timer will see it and not make the same mistake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted February 26, 2006 Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 Dude that is way too much glue. The wood is gonna move so much and is highly likely to be not straight when you unclamp. Use your finger to spread the glue thinnly around the whole surfaces on both side just enough to see that that glue is present. but no need for a bath.... Uh...almost. First, he used a slightly excessive amount of glue, yes (witness the massive amount of squeezout), but with enough clamps, and if you spread your glue first (fingers good, a brush is good too if it's a really large area), you can get good squeezeout, and there's no reason to assume it'll warp massively or anything. Also, you want to apply glue to ONE of the two gluing surfaces, not both. A nice, thin, even amount. Just enough to cover the surface entirely. A bit too much is better than a bit too little, assuming good clamping practice, and you get a feel for how much is enough by gluing more things together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Druss Posted February 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2006 (edited) Ok I planned the edge of the two wings that I'm going to glue to the neck. One of them came out perfect the other one has a slight gap but I guess all the glue filled it in because I can see it but I can't feel it. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0161.jpg Here's the good one. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0162.jpg Edited February 26, 2006 by Druss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Druss Posted February 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2006 (edited) I traced out the neck on poster paper http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0188.jpg And put my bridge where it goes http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0191.jpg Then drew my upper wing, I'm pretty sure this is the design I'm going to go with. I'm going to think about it for a while before I do anything drastic. The other wing will be exactly the same so I'm just going to cut this one out and trace it. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0192.jpg Do you think I'm going to have enough gluing surface? The body is only about 1 1/2" thick and 8 1/2" long, I really want total access to the 24th fret thats why it's so short. If anybody sees a mistake I'm fixing to make PLEASE stop me. Thanks...... Edited February 27, 2006 by Druss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Druss Posted February 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2006 Well That may not work, it would be 20" across at it widest point. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0206.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0213.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0212.jpg Here it is with my pink Johnson flopped crossed it (don't look if your insecure in your manhood) http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0216.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted February 27, 2006 Report Share Posted February 27, 2006 I traced out the neck on poster paper http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0188.jpg And put my bridge where it goes http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0191.jpg Then drew my upper wing, I'm pretty sure this is the design I'm going to go with. I'm going to think about it for a while before I do anything drastic. The other wing will be exactly the same so I'm just going to cut this one out and trace it. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0192.jpg Do you think I'm going to have enough gluing surface? The body is only about 1 1/2" thick and 8 1/2" long, I really want total access to the 24th fret thats why it's so short. If anybody sees a mistake I'm fixing to make PLEASE stop me. Thanks...... Should be fine in terms of gluing surface, although that's going to be one very, very wide instrument. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guitarfrenzy Posted February 27, 2006 Report Share Posted February 27, 2006 Someone else from Arkansas on the forum finally.. lol Anyway, to my taste the body your designing is way too wide, but if it's like you want it, go for it. Remember a design means every aspect of the build, from how it looks, how it functions, how it sounds, etc. It should be comfortable to play, as much as anything. Good luck on your project!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Druss Posted February 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2006 (edited) Yes I'm going to bring it in some it's way to wide. As far as playing comfort goes I can already see that it would be almost impossible to play with this design sitting down it would be sliding off your leg the whole time. I've been playing standing up for so long I can't even play sitting down it just doesn't feel right natural to me so that part of it wont be a problem. Someone else from Arkansas on the forum finally.. I've been reading this forum for about a year getting ready for this build and I've seen your work, I even searched through you topics to see where you were located, south Arkansas (about 60 mile from Louisiana?) if I remember correctly. I wish I lived closer I would volunteer to clean your shop and maybe learn something. This is my first build but I can already tell I've got the fever. Edited February 28, 2006 by Druss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted February 27, 2006 Report Share Posted February 27, 2006 This is my first build but I can already tell I've got the fever. Yeah, it doesn't take much... I think if you brought the design back to about 16 inches (that's about the width of an ES-335, right?), you should be okay, and it won't alter the design too much either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Druss Posted February 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2006 (edited) I've got it down to 16 1/2" wide thats still kind of wide but just by looking at it I believe I can live with it. I'll have a better feel for it after I've cut it out on scrap wood and I can hold it up to my body, if I have to I'll redraw it but I may be ok. It really looks better to me now, it looks more like the axe. Thanks for the input..... here it is at 16 1/2" http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0222.jpg Edited February 28, 2006 by Druss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted February 27, 2006 Report Share Posted February 27, 2006 This is my first build but I can already tell I've got the fever. Yeah, it doesn't take much... I think if you brought the design back to about 16 inches (that's about the width of an ES-335, right?), you should be okay, and it won't alter the design too much either. 16"-17" wide is Dred/Jumbo/Archtop territory, with some archtops (I believe) even hittin 18" wide, and those are a whole lot deeper than your electric. They're also longer bodied, so it's a balancing act, but that's kind of the maximum width I'd want to go for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orgmorg Posted February 28, 2006 Report Share Posted February 28, 2006 Are you thinking of inlaying the runes in the fretboard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Druss Posted February 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2006 Eventually I'll need to do something because the circle inlays aren't going to match but I haven't really got into the inlays yet. I was thinking (just thinking) about burning them like my on bass, those are runes on the top of this bone handle http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ss/100_0005.jpg I was thinking about burning them in between the pick ups and on the headstock. All the runes are straight so I might be able to pull it off with inlays and thats really is what it needs but I just don't know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orgmorg Posted February 28, 2006 Report Share Posted February 28, 2006 Actually, after looking at the picture again, I probably would not use the runes. They are complete gibberish: GORAZ SN OKEG. Even read right to left, it is likely meaningless. Although there's really nothing wrong with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted February 28, 2006 Report Share Posted February 28, 2006 http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0222.jpg Hey, that's looking pretty good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Druss Posted February 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2006 Making my template, it all went well until it fell to the ground on my last cut and busted the end. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0234.jpg Now I get to redo it, I'm making one out of MDF and one out of plywood just to see witch is best for me. If you do a search on it you get some who like one or the other the best so I'll just do both. I made this one out of 1/4" MDF so I'd have less shaping then used it on 1/2" MDF http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0224.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0226.jpg 1/2" MDF http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0229.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0230.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0233.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0231.jpg And of coarse it then fell to the ground and busted so I had to take a break. It's still fun though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Druss Posted February 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2006 Ok I did it right this time http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0237.jpg One good thing about this design is that both wings will be the same so I guess I only need one template for the wings. I know a lot of people cut out the lower horns then glue the wings to the neck but I think I'm going to cut out the whole wing then glue. I'm done for this week I have to go back to work tomorrow so I'll have plenty time to change my mind if thats not the best route. Again if you see me about to do something stupid please stop me.....Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Druss Posted March 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 (edited) I did a full scale drawing of it to see what it's going to look like. No headstock/pommel yet still working on that. I want to go with 3 left and 3 right tuners so I cant go to skinny with it but I want it to resemble an axe pommel. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0255.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0254.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0251.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0253.jpg Hey orgmorg are you just yanking my chain or can you really translate that? Edited March 1, 2006 by Druss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted March 1, 2006 Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 Skinny is NOT a problem: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orgmorg Posted March 1, 2006 Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 No, I used to be really into that stuff. Heres some basic info: http://www.mnh.si.edu/vikings/learning/runes.html The runes on the ax seem to be a later anglo saxon variation. Punch "runes" into google and you'll find all kinds of info. I really do like your idea, though. I think it will turn out awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitefly SA Posted March 1, 2006 Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 you could make a leg rest for it, also you could put that notch behind the bridge over your leg to stay while sitting, your guitar is pretty much a squished flying v, so most of the playing methods apply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Druss Posted March 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 (edited) Man that headstock is only as wide as the neck, well I know I can do it now thanks..... orgmorg thanks for that link , I'll use that when I decide what I'm going to do.I still read a lot and thats the kind of stuff I like to read about. Nitefly SA I can't play sitting down anyway even when I'm recording I have to stand. My brother is just the opposite, when we were in a band together he used a stool on stage. "This post has been edited by Druss: Today, 09:56 PM" I'm just editing this in to keep from bumping this thread with out anything substantial to add, I'm guilty of that enough already......... Orgmorg, I finally found my book "The first chronicles of Druss the legend" I read through it until I found what the runes were suppose to say. "Snaga, The Sender, The Blades Of No Return" I wrote it out on paper using THE OLD FUTHARK RUNES (PRE- AND EARLY VIKING AGE) from the link you gave me. I'm definitely going to have to learn how to do inlay work, the neck has to have that inlay-ed into it. Thanks for that link again and for making my first build even more difficult ..... No" really thats something I can come back and do after I've finished building it but it's going to make the guitar I think. Edited March 2, 2006 by Druss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Druss Posted March 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 (edited) I made some 3/4" ply wood templates today and put them against the neck http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0278.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0274.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0282.jpg I'm liking the way it looks and I think it's going to work as long as I can figure how to bevel the edges to look like blades. I'm pretty sure I can get one to look right but getting them to match is what I'm most worried about. If I could find the right router bit that would be the best thing but I'm not paying $90.00 for a router bit so I've got to come up with something else. I've changed my mind about going with a narrow headstock not because I'm worried about the strength though, I was showing it to a friend and he suggested making the headstock look like a counter weight instead of a grip and I thought hey that is a good idea so thats my plan.(for now).... Edited March 7, 2006 by Druss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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