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Router Bit For Scarf Jig


liquid_gabe

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I just use a 5/8th flat bit with a 1/4" shank in my Trend T5 router. Lots of small cuts it works a treat. I do occasionally get a little tear out at the very edges of the feathered end, but these usually get trimmed away when I join on the peghead ears.

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I'm using a stanley block plane. Sometimes the #5. Mmmm...handplanes.

This message brought to you by the department for the promotion of hand tool use.

(but I still do a fair bit of thicknessing with my router. For solidbodies. When I need to remove a lot of stock)

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Basically, I use the jig that is displayed in this video you can download or view at my site. Here's the link .. Using the Scarf Joint Jig!! It will give you all the information you need on how to use it, and how to make multiple passes like Setch suggested. I just use a regular straight bit with this jig also. It works great if you have everything setup correctly, and take your time. Good luck..

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I'm not averse to using my Sergant or Record no.5's, and I've actually used them in tandem with the router jig. If theres relatively little to remove after rough cutting, I clamp the blank to the jig, and put the jig in the bench vice.

Then, I rest the sole of the plane on one side of the jig, and plane at 45 degrees across the blank until the joint is nice and level. You have to be a bit carefull not to plane the jig, but this is pretty easy with a scarysharp blade and a well tuned plane.

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I agree if you can do it with handplanes and get accurate results, then that's what I'd do. I've also used a belt sander with a jig I built to hold it at the correct angle, and it works great also. So many ways to do this, but ultimately, I always start by bandsawing the angle first, then using either one of these mentioned methods to finish it up. You don't even have to use a bandsaw either, a handsaw will work also.

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Basically, I use the jig that is displayed in this video you can download or view at my site. Here's the link .. Using the Scarf Joint Jig!! It will give you all the information you need on how to use it, and how to make multiple passes like Setch suggested. I just use a regular straight bit with this jig also. It works great if you have everything setup correctly, and take your time. Good luck..

I use the same jig. Ive had the best results using a 4 flute end mill using small passes. Im not too good with a hand planer, I like things that make noise!

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I was about to ask how the jig works (or if there was a link to the jig thread), but that video cleared it up. I was a bit confused, though: didn't you just re-attach them so that they're still parallel? I can't see an angle being created!

It should end up being one of the original flat surfaces + one of the "bevels" in order to create an angled scarf joint for an angled headstock.

Greg

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I was about to ask how the jig works (or if there was a link to the jig thread), but that video cleared it up. I was a bit confused, though: didn't you just re-attach them so that they're still parallel? I can't see an angle being created!

It should end up being one of the original flat surfaces + one of the "bevels" in order to create an angled scarf joint for an angled headstock.

Greg

First off, that's not me in the video.. lol Just a short clip I had of the scarf joint jig being used. They used it to glue two boards together to lengthen it, so the only difference is that with building guitars, you use it to create a angled headstock. Example below of a neck I recently made, you should be able to see the scarf joint angle.

scarfneck02.jpg

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