dash Posted March 22, 2006 Report Share Posted March 22, 2006 heres a pic of the tuning system i'm attempting to build for a bass. basically it gets tuned via a hex key. bridge will be a tom style (i will be working on that tomorrow) obviously the final product will be a lot more "polished" (i need a drill press to get the holes straight!!) the timber portion will be cast from aluminium, my mate owns a foundry, but only casts aluminium. he is getting set up for brass casting later this year, so i will "upgrade" brass when he is ready. heres some other pics. (sorry for crappy camera phone pics) Top Side Rear please post any comments/criticisms/ideas for improvements. cheers darren. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mammoth guitars Posted March 22, 2006 Report Share Posted March 22, 2006 Why tune with a hex key? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gripper Posted March 22, 2006 Report Share Posted March 22, 2006 Two questions. Are you then going to use a locking nut? What keeps your tuning slides from tipping up and killing the downpressure on your bridge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted March 22, 2006 Report Share Posted March 22, 2006 Two questions. Are you then going to use a locking nut? What keeps your tuning slides from tipping up and killing the downpressure on your bridge? The downward pressure shouldn't be an issue, I'd think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted March 22, 2006 Report Share Posted March 22, 2006 You will have to mount this "tailpiece" right at the back of the body to allow the Hex key to turn. It will work but not be too practical. However, once strings are played in, there is often very little tuning required. I used Hex bolts vertically on my practce acoustic minimal guitar thing that's been mentioned occassionally...simple and surprisingly effective, even lower tech than this! pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorn Posted March 23, 2006 Report Share Posted March 23, 2006 Looking good. My suggestions would be: Be sure to use dissimilar metals for the sliding block and the screw. This will help reduce the chance of galling between the two due to constant adjustment while under a thrust load (sting pull). A little bit of grease or lubricant on the threads will also help. You may or may not have enough travel, removing the springs would give a little more distance before coil-bind stopped the block. I take it, when you put a new string on, you will have to pull it as tight as possible and lock it down at the nut end. Is the 20mm of travel, or so, that you have enough to tune it to pitch? Just curious. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted March 23, 2006 Report Share Posted March 23, 2006 What Ron said....make sure you have enough travel to actually do the tuning. Also, brass would be far better than cast aluminum, too light & wimpy for a bass tailpiece if you ask me. The other thing you'll notice about bass bridges is that they're almost always right at the very edge of the body, so that if you go with a tailpiece & TOM arrangement, it will not be able to replace a standard bass bridge, you'll need more body length to keep the same scale length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dash Posted March 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2006 (edited) thanks for the input everyone. keep it coming, as i said this is a prototype, and already i have several ideas for changes. I take it, when you put a new string on, you will have to pull it as tight as possible and lock it down at the nut end. Is the 20mm of travel, or so, that you have enough to tune it to pitch? Just curious. Ron the nut i am planning on making will be from rather hefty brass stock, which will lock the strings (i hope!!) so yes, once string is in place, i will pull as tight as possible with pliers, and lock it. my main concern is the travel for tuning as well, i would like to have at least 30mm, something i need to work on. You may or may not have enough travel, removing the springs would give a little more distance before coil-bind stopped the block. i am most likely going to remove the springs, i don't think they will do much in the scheme of things. Also, brass would be far better than cast aluminum, too light & wimpy for a bass tailpiece if you ask me. i will eventually have the tailpiece cast in brass once my mate is set up to cast it. at the moment i can get it cast in aluminium for free, so beggars can't be choosers! unless i can convince my wife that i NEED a milling machine cheers darren Edited March 23, 2006 by dash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spyykko Posted March 23, 2006 Report Share Posted March 23, 2006 i will eventually have the tailpiece cast in brass once my mate is set up to cast it. at the moment i can get it cast in aluminium for free, so beggars can't be choosers! unless i can convince my wife that i NEED a milling machine How have you planned to smooth out your cast? I don't think the cast will never be smooth and accurate enough to be used as guide rail without some machining, so i think you'll have to start buying roses for your wife anyway I agree with Ron about the issue with travel, and using dissimilar materials. Otherwise it looks good for being a prototype. Keep up with your work and post more pics as you progress! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_the_damned Posted March 23, 2006 Report Share Posted March 23, 2006 Nice design. Minimalistic and functional! I just had a go using some physics equations to try and work out how long a saddle adjustment you'd need but unfortunatly I ended up needing the youngs modulas of a guitar string! not something that I know! oh well:P if I come up with a way arround I'll post up my findings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dash Posted March 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2006 I agree with Ron about the issue with travel, and using dissimilar materials travel is still a concern, the tuning block is brass, the screws are steel, so hopefully that won't be any issue. cheers darren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitey Posted March 23, 2006 Report Share Posted March 23, 2006 hmmm that would look beautifull if it were wood,on a semi acustic bass,and it was sticking out,instead of stuck on...but that would leave a helluva lot of woodshavings lol but imagine it,especialy on a multi laminat neck through,and instead of the edges being perpendicular to the body,it would curve down to lie flush with the body...now that would look amazing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottyd Posted March 23, 2006 Report Share Posted March 23, 2006 Asides from the hex head thing i dont see alot of difference from most headless tuning systems, it will most definatly be a cleaner version even if it is a little more hassle to tune. I say that lightly because its no more hassle than say that of a floyd rose just have to have a tool handy . That aside once the strings are stretched, you shouldnt have to tune too often because most of the need for tuning on a standard bass comes from the slack in the tuners themselves which this totally eliminates. GREAT JOB I WANT ONE!! HOW MUCH YOU ASKING? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dash Posted March 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2006 (edited) Asides from the hex head thing i dont see alot of difference from most headless tuning systems, it will most definatly be a cleaner version even if it is a little more hassle to tune. I say that lightly because its no more hassle than say that of a floyd rose just have to have a tool handy . That aside once the strings are stretched, you shouldnt have to tune too often because most of the need for tuning on a standard bass comes from the slack in the tuners themselves which this totally eliminates. GREAT JOB I WANT ONE!! HOW MUCH YOU ASKING? i guess calling it a "prototype" was the wrong term. i realise its very similar to any other headless tuning system on the market (not that i've ever seen one in person!!) as for selling them, i think i need to refine it to be bullet proof and beautiful. the main reason i'm trying to build it is to save $$$. all up i reckon it will cost me about $30 - $40 in materials (if that), of course the wastage from my "refining" on the first workable model makes the first one more costly. if anyone does want one (once i am happy with the final model) i am sure it will be a LOT less than any other commercial model simply because i am happy to recover material costs only!! cheers darren BTW - does anyone know where i can get ball ends from bass strings?? i've checked out half a dozen string manufacturer's websites, but can't find any. i'm planning to use them for the saddles on the tom i'm building (or attempting to build!!) if anyone has any from broken strings etc i'm happy to buy them from you. for a fair price of course!! Edited March 24, 2006 by dash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottyd Posted March 24, 2006 Report Share Posted March 24, 2006 Hey once you get your prototype worked out and good to go, let me know and ill hook you up with all the string balls you need. Yeah its sad really.....i never throw anything away... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.