Jalien21 Posted March 24, 2006 Report Share Posted March 24, 2006 okay, so i just started my second guitar project! it's to be a neck-through semi-hollow, as the title states. at least i think it's semi-hollow, i don't know what defines that, exactly. does the bridge have to be above a hollow part for it to be semi-hollow? is this merely chambered? i guess it dosen't really matter. ANYWAY specs: neck is gonna be five laminates of maple/pau-lope/walnut/pau-lope/maple with veneers of anigre between the pau-lope and maple. body is going to be walnut/ash/walnut with the ash hollowed out, so the walnut acts as a cap on the top and bottom. 24 1/16 scale (25.5 inch scale compound radius fretboard from stewmac with the first fret cut off and converted to a 0-fret) t-bridge piezo pickup with the blend knob preamp i'll probably try to do a simple inlay on the headstock too i haven't really decided on pickups yet. if anyone has any suggestions/advice about them or anything else, please, please tell me. you guys all know more about this sort of stuff than i do, so i trust you. anyway. i'll post pictures of it as i do stuff. enough words! here are the plans: http://home.comcast.net/~jalien21/guitar/guitarplans.jpg (if the link appears broken, reload or something. for some reason, it's being weird here) okay, so, this is the neck prior to gluing http://home.comcast.net/~jalien21/guitar/AUT_6701.jpg and this is it being glued. i made a mess, heh. http://home.comcast.net/~jalien21/guitar/AUT_6702.jpg and the body woods... http://home.comcast.net/~jalien21/guitar/AUT_6703.jpg and i got some random veneer that i thought was attractive. i may try to do an inlay with it. is that impossible? http://home.comcast.net/~jalien21/guitar/AUT_6703.jpg Right. well. that's that. any questions/more info i should give/suggestions/comments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted March 24, 2006 Report Share Posted March 24, 2006 (edited) Looking good so far. To my understanding, a semi-hollow is a regular solid body construction with at least one hollowed chamber in the body. Something along those lines. Sexy wood, I haven't heard of pau-lope, what kind of wood is it? edit: Just so you know, your first picture "cannot be displayed due to errors." Edited March 24, 2006 by Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnewman Posted March 25, 2006 Report Share Posted March 25, 2006 (edited) As I understand it, if it has one or more small hollow chambers, it is a chambered guitar. If the entire inside is hollow, but it has a block under the bridge between the top and back of the guitar (like an ES335), it is a semihollowbody. If the whole interior is hollow with nothing under the bridge, it is a hollowbody. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.... That's some great looking wood! Edited March 25, 2006 by jnewman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jalien21 Posted March 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2006 pau-lope is also called ipe. it's an ironwood that's mostly used for decking because it's really, really dense and heavy so stuff can't grow in it and it won't rot or anything. i think it's got a nice color and is really hard which is good for necks and stuff. kind of tough to machine, but, eh. you know how it goes. i've got to start thinking about buying hardware and stuff. gold or chrome? i don't have an infinate budget, but i want this guitar to come out sweet. any suggestions? but yeah, i planed down the neck today. i also discovered that i guess i planed the laminates more than i should have... because the blank is 1/8 of an inch too thin... i think i'll just attach some more maple to the side and hope that it's not too noticeable. think it will be? if it comes from the same board? maybe. maybe i can take the wood that will be cut off from profiling the neck and attach that to the other end. we'll see. in anycase, here are pictures of the neck. http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2155/25...00/AUT_6804.jpg http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2155/25...00/AUT_6805.jpg http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2155/25...00/AUT_6806.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lietuvis Posted March 26, 2006 Report Share Posted March 26, 2006 Nice... I like how that neck is coming! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted March 26, 2006 Report Share Posted March 26, 2006 (edited) http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2155/25...00/AUT_6804.jpg Looks good, I really like the idea of a necktrough semihollowbody...but I'd like to see the plan...any chance of fixing the link or posting it? pete Edited March 27, 2006 by Maiden69 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwhiteandthemaple Posted March 26, 2006 Report Share Posted March 26, 2006 24 1/16" scale? Why? I'm just interested in your choice, that's all. Keep up the nice work and keep us posted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jalien21 Posted March 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2006 that should be the guitar plans. it got really, really messed up between illustrator and here, but you should be able to see what it should look like. it will be 24 1/16 scale is because i want to use a zero-fret and a pre-slotted fretboard. if you use a 25.5" scale neck and chop off the first fret, and use the first slot as the zero-fret, then you have a 24.069 inch scale lenth fretboard remaining. which is close (but not exactly the same as) to 24 1/16. i brought the issue up in this thread: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...opic=21732&st=0 i'm kind of thinking that my wanting to put a piezo bridge pickup in is kind of excessive at this point. i wanted it because i've been playing more acoustic music, and i want to be able to do that with my new guitar. plus, it's just cool. it's gonna cost another 150 bucks, though. that's like, 50% of the cost of the instrument itself. i might as well use that toward a cheap ovation. because that's what i really want. we'll see. maybe i'll win the lottery and get them both Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted March 27, 2006 Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 OK..interesting design... For the piezo...you may want to stick one or two of those buzzer thingies near the bridge or somewhere to hook up later if you wish. I put one in the neck pocket of a strat and got quite a good little acoustic sound...you will need a preamp, but if you build it in and leave the wires hanging in the control cavity it could make a cheap future mod...just a thought! Not convinced about the idea of the cut down fretboard/zero fret idea. I like a zero fret, but I think it would be better to fill the nut slot and slot and insert a fret there than too cut it down. Scale length does have a big effect on the sound/tone and playing due to string tension...still it will work I guess and John Lennon played a short scale ricky so, can't be all bad! ta pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jalien21 Posted March 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 hmm. how does scale lenth affect tone? i wanted a smaller scale length because my hands are kind of small and i like to do crazy bends, and a shorter length would lessen tension and allow for more massive bends. right? logic: for a bass guitar (long scale length) to get the same tone as a guitar, the tension has to be way, way high. so something with a short scale length would have looser strings, right? if it's gonna sound bad, though, i don't want to do that... and yeah, i can always add piezo later. especially with a hollowed out guitar. no new cavities to cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted March 27, 2006 Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 so something with a short scale length would have looser strings, right?Right...and that's how it effects tone. Much of fender's snap is a result of their slightly longer length, and conversely, gibson's easier string bending. But it has been done before...yours will have quite a bit of scale reduction...will it sound bad? I don't know, but it will be different. More like tuning down, with a capo up a fret I guess... pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jalien21 Posted March 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 good call, man. yeah. that's exactly what i'm doing. tune down a half step and capo the first fret on a 25.5 inch scale guitar. so i am doing the experiment. and it's not bad. i'm definitely not getting the attack that it had before. but it is really comfy. you barely have to touch the strings to fret the note. i wonder if that's would be a bad thing? *shrug* on the bright side, i can bend to major thirds like it's my job. which is pretty cool. so, we'll see. i think i'll play around on this down-tuned, capo'd guitar a bit more before i decide either way. in anycase, thanks for the heads up on that. how would you suggest filling the nut slot if i go that route? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j. pierce Posted March 28, 2006 Report Share Posted March 28, 2006 I you decide you want a standard scale length (although I'm a big fan of the shorter scale length, so I'd say go for it!) LMI's boards (if you have them cut to order, rather than buy a pre-slotted one) have a zero fret slot. Just so you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jalien21 Posted March 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2006 (bigger pic) http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2155/25...00/AUT_6808.jpg http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2155/25...00/AUT_6807.jpg Okay, so, i cut out the body shape after school today. as you can see, it's gonna be hollow. i didn't leave a block there for the bridge and pickups to mount on. think that's a problem? should i glue some blocks on the side of the neck for it to anchor onto? maybe i should have just cut a hole out of the wings rather than bandsaw them into the U-shape. oh well, i'll make it work. hopefully, tonight i can get some wood to widen the neck so i can profile it on thursday. i'm gonna try to cut out an f-hole and cavity cover (out of the same wood... let's see how that works) tonight or tomorrow. after playing with the shortened-scale fender for a few days, i've decided that i rather like the feel of it, so i'm gonna go that route. I've also been thinking about finishes. i'll probably use tru-oil for the neck. and i might use it for the body, because it's cheap, easy and people have said good things about it. but i'm not sure if it's the sort of thing one uses for a body finish. i was also looking at that KTM-9 stuff. it appeals because i could brush it (i'd rather not go out and buy spray equipment or spend a fortune on rattlecans) and looks like it should give a nice finish. i guess it's not as durable as a nitro laqueur but it seems more feasible for me. comments? i better start buying hardware. maybe i'll do that tonight, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j. pierce Posted March 29, 2006 Report Share Posted March 29, 2006 I've used the KTM-9. I haven't used other finishes, so I can't compare it, but I like it a lot. The finish does seem softer than what I have on my real guitars, but now it seems almost as hard. That stuff just soaks into just about any wood I've sprayed it on other than some really dense maple and some ebony, so don't forget the grainfill step unless you want to use twice as much. The system 9 epoxy LMI sells and recommends seems to be the best filler to go with the KTM-9, but it's kind of expensive, but once you realize how far it goes in the amounts your using, it's not too bad. (I seriously think I could get thirty or fourty guitars out of the one package.) If you're mixing those small amounts of System 9 to use as grainfill, make measure by weight, not volume. I've only used KTM-9 as a brush-on on control plates and the like, but it seems to work real well with a foam brush. Oh, and always *stir*, don't shake KTM-9. It froths up like a latte, and becomes basically unusable until it settles back down. I don't know, I like the KTM-9 stuff alot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted March 29, 2006 Report Share Posted March 29, 2006 Ok...looking good A short scale would even look good on this body style i'd say, if that's what you want, why not! If there is a fender style slot for the nut, I would have filled it with any hardwood (matching or contrasting) and cut a new slot. If not...a bit added, perhaps cut from the other end of the board would do the job. However...if you are making it shorter by cutting off the first fret, there's no need for this. As for adding to the centreblock for bridge and pickups...I would, especially for the bridge area. In fact I'd just add strips down both sides down the whole centreblock...it won't be seen afterall. BTW...make sure you plan your electronics well to get the wiring in there. Also, don't forget you will need an earth wire to the bridge...pays to think ahead... Otherwise, it's all looking good... pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jalien21 Posted April 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2006 Bigger http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2155/25...00/AUT_6811.jpg so, i've cut the f-hole and glued the sides of the neck on (i needed to widen the neck blank because i made a mistake...) tomorrow i'll start shaping the neck and maybe get it ready to glue together. maybe i'll try to get a control cavity made too. we'll see. i bought all the hardware and stuff today too. 350$ +wood makes the projected cost 450. could be worse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jalien21 Posted April 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2006 (edited) hm. so i just realized that i'm gonna be using the schaller roller bridge (12 inch radius) with the stewmac compound radius fretboard (10 inches at the nut, 16 at the bridge) is that going to be a problem? the nut side should be alright because i'm gonna be using a zero-fret. but is a 16" radius fretboard going to a 12" bridge a problem? i just bought everything... heh. anything i can do to fix it? mad fret leveling? bah. EDIT: nevermind. my stewmac order hasn't shipped yet, so i had them change the fretboard to the 25.5" scale 12" cylindrical radius fretboard. Edited April 1, 2006 by Jalien21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoundAt11 Posted April 8, 2006 Report Share Posted April 8, 2006 Looking great so far J, the wood looks great, of course, and I like the shape so far. It vaguely reminds me of a Gretsch BST model neck through, which was a Walnut/Maple neck-thru double cutaway. Love the PRS headstock choice. You action may be a little odd due to the radius difference. I've got a Stew-Mac Gold Gotoh tun-o-matic bridge on my PRS-style neck-thru and it's got a 12 degree radius, while the neck has a 15-degree radius. I always found the action wasn't as low and flat as I really like, but it's not a huge difference and you probably won't notice it. The main thing is just ensuring your tuner holes line up with your nut, your nut lines up with the fretboard, which lines up with your bridge, and that your pickups line up with your strings. Some guys use a laser level, which I may do on my next build, since my alignment is a little off, it's easy to pull the little E off the fretboard and the bridge pickup is approx 1/32" of aligning with the strings perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jalien21 Posted April 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2006 yeah, man. i love the wood. i've finished a test scrap, and it's so beautiful. i actually changed the order so i'm gonna have a 12 inch radius for everything. i like low action. more pictures soon.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jalien21 Posted May 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2006 okay, so, it's been a bit since i posted anything. but i have a couple more pictures of the neck now. i did the scarf joint and cut the headstock and the neck profile. i think i'll try to shape the neck tonight. bigger headstock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maurits Posted May 3, 2006 Report Share Posted May 3, 2006 This thing looks great. Way to go. This should turn out very good. Keep it up. What was your first project? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jalien21 Posted May 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2006 This thing looks great. Way to go. This should turn out very good. Keep it up. What was your first project? my first project was an all-maple monster loosely based off of my fender showmaster. bigger http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2155/25...00/AUT_6709.jpg it's a cool guitar. sounds beautiful. bit heavy, though. i think i'd like to make a new neck for it, too because i made the fretboard for it and i.... didn't do a great job. it's playable, but i have to set the action higher than i'd like it to be to get rid of buzzing. but i can do that later. bought a fretboard for this one. anyway, i shaped the neck last night and it came out really cool, i'm quite proud of it. i'll post a picture or two soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted May 4, 2006 Report Share Posted May 4, 2006 Looking great! How did you shape the neck like that? Come by any mistakes that you learned something from? Any tips / suggestions on shaping a neck like how you did? I'm about to start shaping my neck, and after a bit of work with a rasp I know it's going to take a lot of work. I would love some suggestions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jalien21 Posted May 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 i shaped the neck by first doing the heel and headstock areas with a rasp. you want to try to get those areas to as close to the prefect size and shape as you can. then i connected the two with a spokeshave and sanded everything flat. i think doing the bulk of the work with a spokeshave is safer (it's harder to go too deep in one area and mess all of that up) and saves on sanding time after. but, you know. whatever work. take your time is most of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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