thirdstone Posted April 11, 2006 Report Share Posted April 11, 2006 Hi All after looking at all the other posts of guitars in progress I thought someone might be interested in mine. The idea is a set neck Les paul jr with a twist. That twist is a blackwood cap.,a bound neck and a couple of lollar P90,s So far the body Mahogany blank http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...MAHOG-BLANK.jpg not much too look at I know but its a nice one piece with a bit of flame Blackwood cap , two piece glued down the middle http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...ACKWOOD-CAP.jpg When wetted with metholated sprit it shows some nice flame grain. The Mahogany neck blank , one piece. I will use the offcut for another neck. http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...-NECK-BLANK.jpg The first thing I did with the neck blank was to make the headstock angle 14 Deg http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...STOCK-ANGLE.jpg Next I routed the truss rod slot and fitted a stew mac double action model http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...SS-ROD-NECK.jpg Then I got the rosewood fretbord slotted to the Gibson scale length . Then I glued some mahogany strips down the side as binding. I prefer bound necks but I didn't want it to look like the nck was bound. It sort of keeps in the sperit of Les Paul Jr`s http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...ARD-BINDING.jpg Thats all for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chopp3r Posted April 11, 2006 Report Share Posted April 11, 2006 Did you plane that headstock angle by hand?...looking good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian d Posted April 11, 2006 Report Share Posted April 11, 2006 I would be a bit concerned about the strength of the headstock. Angled headstocks have a propensity to break, even more so if it is not scarf jointed to minimise the end grain at the angle, or the neck is not laminated to increase the strength. I could be wrong, but it's worth looking into before you invest a lot of time and effort. Regards, Brian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gemm012 Posted April 11, 2006 Report Share Posted April 11, 2006 I could be wrong, but I think that's how Gibson does their neck angles. Again, I could be wrong, but I saw this show about all sorts of stuff that is made in america and they were at the Gibson factory and the guy roughing out the neck blanks just cut the whole thing out of a maybe 3" by 3" board on a bandsaw, neck angle and all. Galen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
american_jesus Posted April 11, 2006 Report Share Posted April 11, 2006 yeah, gibsons definately have a one piece neck with the angle carved into it. yes, they're more likely to break, but as long as you're not stupid about it, the neck is going to be fine... anyways...good luck on the build...hope it comes out nice. and gemm...propagandhi...nice... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeiscosRock Posted April 11, 2006 Report Share Posted April 11, 2006 Volute's are your friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirdstone Posted April 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2006 Did you plane that headstock angle by hand?...looking good. Th bulk of the wood was removed with a bandsaw and then it was cleaned up with a plane.. I am aware of the weaknesses of this design so I plan to have a Volute and also I kept the trussrod adjustment at the body end. This avoids the need to remove wood at the nut headstock area keeping max strength...Thanks for the comments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
american_jesus Posted April 11, 2006 Report Share Posted April 11, 2006 are you going to be doing a bolt on, or how are you going to leave the adjustment for the truss at the bottom of the neck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirdstone Posted April 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2006 are you going to be doing a bolt on, or how are you going to leave the adjustment for the truss at the bottom of the neck? It will be a set neck with the wheel style adjuster accessible from in front of the neck pup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirdstone Posted April 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2006 (edited) Some more progress. Its going well here is a shot of the fretbord gluing. Never enough clamps. http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...ng-fretbord.jpg Next was to inlay the dots. At first I wasn’t going to put dots on (Except for the 12th fret) as I wanted a minimalist approach. I will still have side dots as that’s what I find I look at most. I compromised by using black MOP dots which are not completely black, more silver. I then wanted a small inlay at the 12th fret position inlay so I designed some frowning eyes looking out from the board. The eyes are white MOP paua MOP and black MOP. It turned out good I think. http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...dots-insert.jpg Cleaned up a bit with 12inch radius http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...with-radius.jpg Cutting out the neck http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...ng-out-neck.jpg I then trimed the tennon adding a 2 degree angle to the bottom of the tennon. http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...-neck-tenon.jpg I spent a bit of time making and testing neck socket jigs so that I would get a tight fit. No room for error. Neck tennon shortened and fitted into the newly routed neck slot. I actualy routed the neck slot first then the PUP route. Next time I will route the PUP first as it allows you to see where the PUP route depth stops and gives you a better idea where you are when doing the neck route. . http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...k-pup-fit-1.jpg Test fit nice and tight. Zero movement. http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...ck-fit-test.jpg Coming together http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...ng-together.jpg Headstock design next but first some wings. http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...luing-wings.jpg Thats all for now gotta go and design a headstock... Edited April 11, 2006 by thirdstone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted April 12, 2006 Report Share Posted April 12, 2006 Looking great! I love P90 LPs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinny Posted April 12, 2006 Report Share Posted April 12, 2006 Nice work! Keep us updated with more progress reports, I'll be watching! -Vinny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoundAt11 Posted April 13, 2006 Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 Looking great so far, very woody and natural looking, the rosewood is especially nice. That wheeled truss-rod adjustment is very cool. I've seen it on the Ernie Ball guitars, but never on set-neck ones. I may have to use that on my neck, I'm not a big fat of removing material a the headstock. Some oil or a light satin finish and you're set :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian d Posted April 13, 2006 Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 looking beautiful! I really like the wheel adjuster for the rod at the end of the fretboard. That'll make a big difference in the strength at the headstock and it's a handy place for adjustment. How long was the truss rod you used? Does it start at the fb edge of the nut or further down? what fret does the wheel come out at. Thanks, Brian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirdstone Posted April 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 looking beautiful! I really like the wheel adjuster for the rod at the end of the fretboard. That'll make a big difference in the strength at the headstock and it's a handy place for adjustment. How long was the truss rod you used? Does it start at the fb edge of the nut or further down? what fret does the wheel come out at. Thanks, Brian. The trussrod is a stew mac hotrod http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Truss_rods/Hot...Truss_Rods.html It starts just bridge side of the nut and the adjustment is pup side of the 22nd fret. Sorry I can`t remember the length but that should give you an idea. I have used these rods before and so long as they are tight in the slot they are fine. You can improve the fit slightly by using a rounded router bit rather than a flat bottom straight cut bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirdstone Posted April 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2006 (edited) Some progress on the neck . I have a bit of a problem with headstocks .I find them very hard to design,to get something halfway original and still be functional with the design requirements. Its the only time I wish I had access to a CNC. Anyway the problem I noticed with mahogany headstocks is that they are prone to break behind the nut. I have done my best to keep this part of the neck strong by keeping the trussrod adjustment away from the nut and i have added a volute to add a bit of meat to the area. I have no idea how you make one but this is what i have come up with. The headstock design http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...ock-drawing.jpg the volute started http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...lute-thined.jpg cleaned up a bit http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...olute-rough.jpg side on http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...ute-side-on.jpg I desided to have a thickish neck aroun 22mm at the first fret and 24mm at the 12th. I have gone to the thicker side of things as If it feels too thick I can thin it down later. can't add wood! http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...neck-cutout.jpg Next is to finish up the headstock and volute and start the shaping of the neck. I could fret it first but it realy dosn't make much differance. I have to decide if I want a headstock vineer which i think I will. proberbly blackwood. I would also like some sort of headstock name (thirdstone) in MOP. That will take time as I should have sorted that out earlier. I could use a water slide decal but if you are going to all the effort of making a guitar that will be around to hand over to your children its not much more to do. Edited April 21, 2006 by thirdstone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maurits Posted April 22, 2006 Report Share Posted April 22, 2006 I'd definatly go with the MOP inlay. Looking good so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted April 22, 2006 Report Share Posted April 22, 2006 Seems like that's a pretty huge volute...? Lookin' cool either way, however just about all this neck stuff: i remember reading in a COUPLE places that the volute adding significant strength (ie: enough to start considering it an actual reinforcement instead of jsut for a specific feeling in the neck) is a myth. Also, Gibson does do the one piece angled headstocks like that, and they have the truss rod coming out of the headstock and les pauls survive DECADES without issue. Rock stars dropping them on stage when they go off, etc. I don't think you'll ahve a problem. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted April 22, 2006 Report Share Posted April 22, 2006 Also, Gibson does do the one piece angled headstocks like that, and they have the truss rod coming out of the headstock and les pauls survive DECADES without issue. Rock stars dropping them on stage when they go off, etc. I don't think you'll ahve a problem. Um, Gibson 1 piece necks are *infamous* for breaking under minimal abuse...did you not get the memo? Seriously, repair guys jokingly say 'What would I live on if it weren't for Gibson headstock repairs?'! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirdstone Posted April 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2006 If you look at sales of old Gibson SG`s and Les Pauls you will read many mentions of "slight crack", "Repair carried out" , "sign of crack " ect,ect. Particulary SG`s. There is no doubt that Mahogany headstocks attached to electric guitars suffer more than say Maple necks when there is an accident. I am just trying to lessen the chance of damage down the track . The Volute looks big now but when finnished it will be reduced somewhat. Whether it will make a differance I will never know .The only thing I do know is that if the headstock were to get damaged with out one It will be too late to add a volute and I would be left wondering what if!!!! Interesting to note is that PRS guitars are holding up well in this area Could that be that young accident prone (read drunk) people can't afford them in the first place? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirdstone Posted April 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2006 (edited) I have started the shaping of the neck, Its going well but I must say this is one of the stages where you add a bit of personality to the work. The neck shape makes a huge differance to the pleasure of playing a guitar. I tend to remember guitars as much for the feel of the neck as anything else. Let me see, A pretty cool black 50's strat with an almost baseball bat boat neck, the big Jeff Beck neck. is it me or have the JB necks reduced in size over the years.The almost mesmarising Earnie Ball EVH asymetric oiled job. The early Fender Clapton V , My Fav Fender neck shape very nice. The Fender soft V is also good. I played a Music Man custom job once that also had a very good oiled slim neck that just begged to be shredded on. Speaking of shredding, sorry not a fan of Ibanez JEM necks or the super thin ones, Wizard necks I think they are called. Necks I have made in the past have ranged from a thick C (the first one ) to a hard V but I have settled on some thing that has a medium V at the nut which fades into a C around the 5th fret with a 12" radius fretboard. Neck width is 46.5mm( should come down 1mm, still big though.Normal is 42-44mm) at the first fret to 53mm at the 12th fret. Neck thickness is about 21.75mm at 1st fret to 24.5mm at 12, this will reduce .5 to 1mm . I might also firm up the V a bit. If you want to get some neck dimentions go to the Warmoth site http://www.warmoth.com/guitar/necks/necks....n=back_profiles for some good reading. A bit hard to make out but this is the progress http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir.../neckcarve1.jpg http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...90/IMG_0315.jpg Edited April 25, 2006 by thirdstone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirdstone Posted April 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2006 More progress. I have spent some more time refining the back of the neck. Its close to what I am aiming for. i still have some more work to do on the volute. At the moment its a bit ugly. I needed some time away from the neck so I decided to rough cut the body shape. I left a bit of wood around the lower horn cutout for protection whilst the neck is comeing and going. I plan to reduce it quite a bit just before the gluing of the neck. Just after its glued I will finnish off the cutaway. Overview from the neck http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...iewroughcut.jpg from above http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...opviewrough.jpg lower cutout http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...nlowerrough.jpg neck join from the back http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...ckjoinrough.jpg Next is to put the templet on the body and use the router to clean up the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitefly SA Posted April 26, 2006 Report Share Posted April 26, 2006 Seems like that's a pretty huge volute...? better safe than sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirdstone Posted April 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 (edited) I have had some productive time lately , here is what I have got done. First I designed a headstock logo which I drew on paper. Its an S wraped around a T,as I call the few guitars that I have built Thirdstone as a make beleive brand. I hope there,s not a real thirdstone out there. Once drawn out its then cut up into seperate pieces so I can glue them to the bits of MOP. Then I cut out the MOP and shape to fit. Its then layed down on some adhesive tape face down . I then mix up some apoxy coloured with some sawdust from the headstock.This is layed over the back of the design and allowed to cure. Once cured carefully peel off the tape and you have this Also I did some more work on the headstock fitting a blackwood venir and drilling the machine head holes. headstock with test fitting of machine heads and inlay http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...nlayresting.jpg back of headstock http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g32/Thir...eartrialfit.jpg Next is to inlay the MOP. Edited April 29, 2006 by thirdstone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted April 28, 2006 Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 Looking great! Nice inlay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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