axemannate Posted April 19, 2006 Report Share Posted April 19, 2006 I am in the market right now for a new band saw and have almost decided that I am going to get the 1hp Grizzly 14" bandsaw. I've only heard good reviews about it. There is only one thing I am not sure about. Has anyone ever tried to resaw with it. I would mostly be sawing maple tops out of 8/4 pieces. Stock, the saw is only able to saw up to 6" high but with an attachment and a new blade it jumps to 12". I would only be sawing up to 7" so I won't be using the full 12". Also I would be using a 3/4" wide blade. Does anyone have any experience with this or any reason I can't or shouldn't do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted April 19, 2006 Report Share Posted April 19, 2006 I am in the market right now for a new band saw and have almost decided that I am going to get the 1hp Grizzly 14" bandsaw. I've only heard good reviews about it. There is only one thing I am not sure about. Has anyone ever tried to resaw with it. I would mostly be sawing maple tops out of 8/4 pieces. Stock, the saw is only able to saw up to 6" high but with an attachment and a new blade it jumps to 12". I would only be sawing up to 7" so I won't be using the full 12". Also I would be using a 3/4" wide blade. Does anyone have any experience with this or any reason I can't or shouldn't do this. A 14" w/ Riser block kit makes for a very useful tool. It would be hard to outgrow that. I have used mine to re-saw a lot of stock. Cedar to Ebony-- Necks, top wedges, acoustic stock, even binding--- .060" to 11-1/2" stock. Set that saw up correcty and it can make superb cuts. A great choice for sure. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted April 19, 2006 Report Share Posted April 19, 2006 I am in the market right now for a new band saw and have almost decided that I am going to get the 1hp Grizzly 14" bandsaw. I've only heard good reviews about it. There is only one thing I am not sure about. Has anyone ever tried to resaw with it. I would mostly be sawing maple tops out of 8/4 pieces. Stock, the saw is only able to saw up to 6" high but with an attachment and a new blade it jumps to 12". I would only be sawing up to 7" so I won't be using the full 12". Also I would be using a 3/4" wide blade. Does anyone have any experience with this or any reason I can't or shouldn't do this. I have the Grizzly Ultimate 14" with riser block. It resaws fine using the correct blade. I have found that the Timberwolf 1/2" 3 tpi works best in this saw. I tried the 3/4" and it just doesn't have enough power to use it correctly. The fence that comes with the it needs to have a riser added. I'll try and post some pics of my fence and feather board that I use when I resaw. Again I would not recommend using the 3/4" blade. Do a search on this at the Knots forum at http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/index.aspx? Most will tell you to use the 1/2" Timber wolf. Also the blade that comes with the Grizzly is a POS. It's more there for shipping that anything. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orgmorg Posted April 19, 2006 Report Share Posted April 19, 2006 Also, I would recommend sticking to the 1/2" band. A wider band is better for resawing, but on 14" saws, you are better of with the 1/2". You can get better tension on them without stressing the saw. And, like most Delta knock-offs, they have crowned wheels or tires. A band wider than 1/2" starts to curve itself to the crown of the wheel, making it more likely to lead to the inside. You can get very good results from a properly set up 1/2" blade. Check out Mark Duginske's " Band Saw Handbook " Excellent source of info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted April 19, 2006 Report Share Posted April 19, 2006 Here's some pics of my fence and feather board. Note the blade is not what I use for resawing. This was for photos only for your question as I had just setup to cut out a body blank. http://www.mikrovisions.com/pgmember/tools/resaw1.JPG http://www.mikrovisions.com/pgmember/tools/resaw2.JPG http://www.mikrovisions.com/pgmember/tools/resaw3.JPG Hope this helps Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orgmorg Posted April 19, 2006 Report Share Posted April 19, 2006 Thats a pretty cool setup, Mike. What's the "feather" part made of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarchump Posted April 19, 2006 Report Share Posted April 19, 2006 On the blade topic. I just got my first timberwolf blade and WOW! SOOOOO much better then the stupid ones i got from homdepot and places like that. I used to go through at least 1 to 2 blades a guitar now i can slap the timberwolf on and it cuts great for a very long time. I recomend it highly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axemannate Posted April 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2006 Thanks a lot guys for all the info. Esspecially about the 1/2" blades, I would probably end up ruining some nice wood with a 3/4. Also Mikro, that thing looks pretty nifty. I may have to rig something like that up myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted April 20, 2006 Report Share Posted April 20, 2006 Thats a pretty cool setup, Mike. What's the "feather" part made of? It's some plastic from a corrugated roof LOL:) Really though anything that has some flex to it will work since it clamps in. That piece is sorta short but it works. Just need to apply even pressure to the wood and fence so that all you have to worry about is feed rate. I'll try and make a set of plans for it to add to the tools and jigs section. May take a while as I'm very busy right now buit I'll try. MK On the blade topic. I just got my first timberwolf blade and WOW! SOOOOO much better then the stupid ones i got from homdepot and places like that. I used to go through at least 1 to 2 blades a guitar now i can slap the timberwolf on and it cuts great for a very long time. I recomend it highly! They are nice aren't they LOL:))))) I use the 3/16 10tpi for tight work, 1/4" 10 tpi for larger curves and the 1/2" 3 tpi for resaw. They seem to last about 4 to 1 against other blades. Here's the body blank I cut out tonight. a nice piece of Sapele, this is the bottom your looking at. http://www.mikrovisions.com/pgmember/tools/rufbodybottom.JPG MK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hydrogeoman Posted April 21, 2006 Report Share Posted April 21, 2006 I have the Grizzly 14" Ultimate bandsaw with the riser block as well. For resawing I use a Grizzly 3/4" blade (5 or 6 tpi I think) along with a fence extension and feather board jig I made. It does a great job and I have resawn up to 8" wide boards on it to make 1/4" thick bookmatched tops of purpleheart, paduak, and curly and birdseye maple. The cut is straight and true once you spend a little time tuning the saw, although I may try a 1/2" wide blade as suggested in the future. I do sometimes worry that I may be putting too much stress on the saw with the 3/4" blade. I think the Grizzly is a very good value and the riser block is a MUST for this saw if you plan to resaw. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toddler68 Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 I just scored a 14" Delta at an auction and I'm trying to pimp it out. Where are you guys buying your Timberwolf blades? I've seen some online outlets selling them for around $17, but at Woodcraft they're like $29! Any recommendations? Also, is there any significant difference between 3 TPI and 4 TPI? I'm just looking for an all-around good blade for resawing and cutting out body blanks, etc. Thanks, Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 If this does all that ya'll say it does and more.... why would anyone ever pay for their bigger saws? Cause I'm EVENTUALLY looking to get one when I have somewhere to place it... and I was looking at their $700-$800, 2HP saws... and now I'm really rethinking that if this does all the above... Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 Mmm....bandsaws. How serious are you about resawing? And what's your actual, real budget? My mantra: buy the best saw you can afford, every time. Check the classifieds for second-hand Lagunas, MiniMax, that sort of thing. Craigslist. Look around. Chris: my basic understanding of it all is this: the better saws have heavier, sturdier, frames, solid wheels, good tracking, more power, all of which makes for smoother sawing. Same as everywhere else, methinks; you can get by with a cheap dime-store router, but a Bosch or a Festool's going to be a much more pleasant, predictable working experience. I'm currently eyeing up various bandsaws, and pretty much, I'd love to buy a new MiniMax MM16 (well, S400P, but same difference), which is a 16" saw with 12" resaw capacity, great reviews, etc. Downside: costs about 2500 dollars new (with the 19% VAT, weak dollar vis. euro and all that..the idiocy of Italian-made saws being cheaper in the US than over here does not escape me). They make a 18" saw for a good bit less, but it's less heavy, and less sturdy in its construction. So I'm looking at a number of very nice second-hand tools priced at areound 1/3" of that, for big 24" Centauros and their ilk. Probably will try to get something between a 16" and an 18", and even if I can't rewire the 380V tri-phase motor they come with, replacing the motor will still be cheaper than buying a new saw, and you can get a lot of saw for the cash. I am half-considering getting a smaller, 10-12" saw and dedicating that to curved cuts, with a narrower blade, but right now that's perhaps a touch decadent... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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