matttheguy Posted May 11, 2006 Report Share Posted May 11, 2006 (edited) Well, I've had alot of experience in a woodshop and toolshop, and I've always wanted to build a guitar, so I finally decided about 4 months ago that I would. The very first thing I did was I bought and read Melvyn Hiscock's book, and I feel that gave me a very good boost. I then started searching the web and found this site and Anthony Setchell's blog, which gave me the inspiration to do a Les Paul. I know, it may be trite, the world may have already seen too many of these, but it's still a warm, classic guitar, so, I have decided to build one. I'm using honduras mahogany for the neck and body and a low grade flame maple for the carved top (I like the mix between the flamed grain and the true maple grain), all from LMI. For the fretboard, I'm using a pre-slotted 24 9/16" scale rosewood piece from Stewmac. The fretboard and body will be bound with cream plastic binding. For the hardware, I'm using a traditional stopbar and a Nashville style bridge, Grover keystone style tuners, all from Stewmac. As for the pickups, I'm using Gibson 490R and 490T humbuckers. As for the finished guitar, the pickguard and pickup rings will be cream, with a 'Jimmy Page' style burst finish and a cherry side and back. Nothing too special, but gloriously special in its own sense. I'm back in my hometown for the summer, and the shop I'm using doesn't usually see a business drop until 'summer break', so I cannot start until the local schools let out. But, after that, I have a full metal and wood shop with every tool imaginable at my disposal. I hope to finish this guitar by the end of August, but I'll be sure to take my time on every scrape, every notch and every cut on this fine instrument. Here are a couple of photos of the parts I'm using: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/mat...-01-06Wood2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/mat...erialLayout.jpg I'll be sure to update on my progress! Edited August 20, 2006 by matttheguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matttheguy Posted May 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2006 (edited) Hey, I have a quick question concerning the guitar. When I'm routing the channel for the truss rod (I'm using this truss rod), do I have to make the channel curved? Also, I think I'm going to deviate just a tad from the traditional Les Paul and I'm going to add a small volute under the adjustment recess. Finished my template today. I copied the outline of the body from the Stewmac plans and then sprayed it onto a piece of plywood and cut it out with the scroll, then sanded along till there wern't any bumps... wouldn't want to make the binding channel messy, now would I? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/mat...-06Template.jpg Edited August 20, 2006 by matttheguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted May 18, 2006 Report Share Posted May 18, 2006 When I'm routing the channel for the truss rod (I'm using this truss rod), do I have to make the channel curved? Just run router for another pass in the slot, just not the full length, this will give you channel with slightly deeper slot in middle part. Maybe not an exact curve.....but some more room in middle. Also, I think I'm going to deviate just a tad from the traditional Les Paul and I'm going to add a small volute under the adjustment recess. Remember you're building YOUR OWN guitar......this means you can do anything you want. (e.g. Paint it pink and play it neketh ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matttheguy Posted June 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2006 (edited) Well, I've finally started to get going on this project. I've glued the maple pieces together and rough cut it about 1/4" from the actual shape. I've also cut the body and shaped and sanded it down to pretty much the final shape, within 1/16". Now for the body is to just route the cavities, glue the top on, flush route that, and carve away! In this photo I show the back of the mahogany, as it has been sanded much nicer than the front, which still has a little bit of math and some sketches on it. Now, I've got the body sanded to about the right shape, but I'm thinking the bearing on the router, for flush routing the top and for routing the binding channel, may mar the mahogany. This isn't THAT big of a problem, a little more sanding will not hurt, but is there any way you people avoid this? Thanks in advance! Edited August 20, 2006 by matttheguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooglebug Posted June 12, 2006 Report Share Posted June 12, 2006 the grain on that maple looks very striking. can't wait to see it stained and brought out more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matttheguy Posted June 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2006 You can see on the top right corner a little bit of stain. I had stained a bit to show my mother what the grain was going to look like once finished, and how it will move. Most of the 'maple only' grain will be covered by pickups, fingerboard, bridge and tailpiece, so the focus will undoubtedly be the figured grain. I never liked the highly figured woods, such as 4A and 5A, so I got something which showed both grains in good quantity. This piece is only a 1A from LMI, and I'm VERY pleased with it. The figuring is where it needs to be, and as a bonus it's figured in a sort of pattern. You can see near the bottom of it there it makes a sort of arrowhead shape, I love it! I can honestly say I love the 'lesser' grade woods in comparison to the 'higher' grade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted June 12, 2006 Report Share Posted June 12, 2006 Looking good. How do you like that Epiphone amp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matttheguy Posted June 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2006 (edited) It's simply amazing. It has something called tube-tone circuitry, which I assume is meant to mimic the sound of a tube amp, and it does it perfectly. When I first heard it in the music shop, I could have sworn it was a tube amp, certainly not a 30watt solid state. It packs alot more punch than any 30watt I've ever played. The effects are good for the small amount they give you. Plus, it just looks cool and vintage with the red leatherette. I got mine for $150, and it was well worth it. I'd say get one now before Epiphone wises up and jacks the price! Edited June 12, 2006 by matttheguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matttheguy Posted June 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2006 Okay, two questions. To restate, does anyone know a way to stop the marring, or the slight indentation, caused by a router bearing? Also, I just purchased a convex spokeshave. When I go against the grain (on a practice piece of maple, of course), it works beautifully, but when I go with it, it skips across and does not want to cut (or is it the other way around?). With this said, how do you use it to carve in those areas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted June 15, 2006 Report Share Posted June 15, 2006 The router bearing should be just that-- a bearing, meaning that it shouldn't move "with" the shaft of the bearing. If it is, it's somehow jammed or something similar. The piece above it might be pressed down too hard against the bearing or something. In any event, if the bearing part is allowed to move freely, you shouldn't get much if any of an indentation. Next, don't press insanely hard when routing. All you need is positive contact. I try to ride the template as much as possible, but there are times that the bearing "collar" (?) has to ride along my actual projects, and I've never had to worry about an indentation. If you're consistently getting one, then perhaps the manufacturer hasn't made the bit to exacting specifications? What brand are you using? Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matttheguy Posted June 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2006 For what I was talking about (which I should have explained further, sorry), I wasn't using a template. For instance, I'm about to glue the maple top to the mahogany, and I'll have to flush route that, meaning the bearing will be riding along the mahogany during the process. But, you did address it. I probably was pushing it too hard into the body itself, causing the bearing to leave a trail. Thank you very much. Now comes the spokeshave! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mushy the shroom Posted June 16, 2006 Report Share Posted June 16, 2006 Hey, enjoy the spokeshaveage.. when I used mine for the neck joint, it was one of the most pleasurable experiences about building my guitar. Just worked so well, very easy even for artistically challenged folks as myself (I regard most hand-shaping to be an artistic matter). Anyway, the maple looks excellent, great figure on the edges, and I like the ridges in the figure around where the bridge would be. Good luck with the shaping! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matttheguy Posted June 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2006 It's sure going to take alot to get use to. I'm still skipping across the wood at some points, and it's hard to keep a carve smooth... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toddler68 Posted June 16, 2006 Report Share Posted June 16, 2006 To restate, does anyone know a way to stop the marring, or the slight indentation, caused by a router bearing? Yeah, I've had that. I usually ignore it because I end up spindle sanding the body profile anyway. I should really replace all the bearings on my router bits just to be safe. I had a similar issue when the set screw for the bearing collar stuck out farther than the bearing. Just take a Dremel and grind down the set screw a tad. (The side opposite the hex key ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matttheguy Posted June 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2006 So, I adjusted the blade on the spokeshave. It seems to have been set to cut too deep, and it wanted to skip right over the wood. Now when I go over that maple, it's like cutting through butter. I should have the carve shaped within the next few days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Melvyn Hiscock Posted June 19, 2006 Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 So, I adjusted the blade on the spokeshave. It seems to have been set to cut too deep, and it wanted to skip right over the wood. Now when I go over that maple, it's like cutting through butter. I should have the carve shaped within the next few days. You'll find that a well sharpened scraper will be worth it's weight in P90s whe you come to finish the carving. There are a few tutorials on sharpening scrapers around and they are worth looking at. Oval scapers are excellent when carving maple. Be prepared for quite a bit of sanding too . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted June 19, 2006 Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 My favorite scraper for carved tops is an old pullsaw blade from Shark brand dowel saw. It's thin enough to conform to the tightest curve you'll find on a carved top, and still takes and hold a hook very well. Since I started using it I've eliminated hours of sanding from my top shaping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted June 19, 2006 Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 So, I adjusted the blade on the spokeshave. It seems to have been set to cut too deep, and it wanted to skip right over the wood. Now when I go over that maple, it's like cutting through butter. I should have the carve shaped within the next few days. You'll find that a well sharpened scraper will be worth it's weight in P90s whe you come to finish the carving. There are a few tutorials on sharpening scrapers around and they are worth looking at. Oval scapers are excellent when carving maple. Be prepared for quite a bit of sanding too . . . Hey! Look who the sawdust bunnies dragged in... Good to see you here! (also, I sent you some email yonks ago. Didya get it?) Mattia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matttheguy Posted June 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 So, I adjusted the blade on the spokeshave. It seems to have been set to cut too deep, and it wanted to skip right over the wood. Now when I go over that maple, it's like cutting through butter. I should have the carve shaped within the next few days. You'll find that a well sharpened scraper will be worth it's weight in P90s whe you come to finish the carving. There are a few tutorials on sharpening scrapers around and they are worth looking at. Oval scapers are excellent when carving maple. Be prepared for quite a bit of sanding too . . . Yes yes, the sanding has begun. I'm not exactly a ripped man, and let's just say my shoulder isn't accustomed to this kind of use! I have been using my scraper, also, to smooth out the carve. Your book and Setch's blog have helped immensely so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted June 20, 2006 Report Share Posted June 20, 2006 Look at the sanding as a nice way to get those arms into shape! After your third or fourth guitar you will have arms of steel and not even notice it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Melvyn Hiscock Posted June 20, 2006 Report Share Posted June 20, 2006 So, I adjusted the blade on the spokeshave. It seems to have been set to cut too deep, and it wanted to skip right over the wood. Now when I go over that maple, it's like cutting through butter. I should have the carve shaped within the next few days. You'll find that a well sharpened scraper will be worth it's weight in P90s whe you come to finish the carving. There are a few tutorials on sharpening scrapers around and they are worth looking at. Oval scapers are excellent when carving maple. Be prepared for quite a bit of sanding too . . . Hey! Look who the sawdust bunnies dragged in... Good to see you here! (also, I sent you some email yonks ago. Didya get it?) Mattia I got some of the email, thanks. When are you coming over? Yup, indeed the sawdust bunnies did indeed drag me in. Sawdust bunnies, like Playboy bunnies only . . .dustier . Your book and Setch's blog have helped immensely so far. Good, that is why I wrote it, all those long nights huddled over a quill by the light of the oil lamp, the dinosaurs crashing around outside (feeling old, the first edition was 20 years old last month!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matttheguy Posted June 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2006 I would have been but only 4 years old... which, strangely, doesn't seem that long ago... I guess I'll always be a child. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted June 20, 2006 Report Share Posted June 20, 2006 I got some of the email, thanks. When are you coming over? Yup, indeed the sawdust bunnies did indeed drag me in. Sawdust bunnies, like Playboy bunnies only . . .dustier . Tricksy bunnies! Not sure when I'm going to be able to make my next UK-ward trip; I'm getting my internship schedule for the next, well, few months/2 years within the next 4 weeks, if all goes as planned, so I'm waiting for that before I go off and plan anything. Mattia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matttheguy Posted June 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2006 Welllll then, to get back on track! Here's some photos that I just uploaded today. They're kind of old, but I'll get some new ones up soon! Here's a pic with the top of the body routed. No, I am not going to chamber the body. I like carrying around something that has a weight similar to a 50lb barbell: And here's a link to a rough cut of the neck. I'll get one up with the truss rod in it, soon: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/mat...eckRoughCut.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blazingblake Posted June 22, 2006 Report Share Posted June 22, 2006 Looking good so far, thats a bug chunck of mahogany your using for the neck how big was it before you cut into it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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