jammy Posted June 19, 2006 Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 (edited) Well, this guitar's quite far along now, but I thought I'd start the thread at the begining... Here's the pile of wood I started off with Click And my spec list... Oregon myrtle back and sides Sitka Spruce top Rosewood neck Ebony Board Ebony Bridge Spruce bracing Mahogany blocks Mahogany linings Rosewood binding on the body Maple bound fretboard 29" scale tuned B to B or A to A 000 body shape, but 10mm deeper at all points Pinned tennon neck joint Bone nut and saddle And where I'm up to today - I've just leveled the bindings up to the top and back, and I'll get them flush with the sides tomorrow, and start the neck joint. picture of front Edited June 21, 2006 by jammy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matttheguy Posted June 19, 2006 Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 That back looks lovely! I love the difference in colors on that piece of wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted June 19, 2006 Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 Cool, You gotta love that Myrtle. Should be interesting to see how it sounds with that scale length and tuning. Any pix inside the Box? Very nice clean work! Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted June 19, 2006 Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 Dammit, you're too fast! (he said, having a Baritone acoustic guitar with similar specs, just shallower but larger body merely awaiting binding - hatesss binding, I does! - and a final neck set before finishing...) And now I want Myrtle. Lovely stuff, though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted June 19, 2006 Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 Here's the pile of wood I started off with Click Is it just me or does your pile of wood look a lot like the microsoft home page...? Seriously, is it redirecting anyone else there? Cool guitar BTW! That wood is great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jammy Posted June 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 Cool, You gotta love that Myrtle. Should be interesting to see how it sounds with that scale length and tuning. Any pix inside the Box? Very nice clean work! Peace,Rich None inside the box no, unfortunatly. Its as clean as I could make it - cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ooten2 Posted June 19, 2006 Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 Beautiful!! The myrtle looks awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jammy Posted June 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2006 Cheers for the kind words all. As predicted the neck joint's on it's way. I'm hoping to have the neck on, and the fretboard radiused and slotted tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted June 20, 2006 Report Share Posted June 20, 2006 Cool, You gotta love that Myrtle. Should be interesting to see how it sounds with that scale length and tuning. Any pix inside the Box? Very nice clean work! Peace,Rich None inside the box no, unfortunatly. Its as clean as I could make it - cheers That's cool. It is a pain to stop working for pic ops. What style bracing did you use on this one? Any special mods for this type of guitar? Kinda curious about the back/side thickness you used with the Myrtle. Peace,Rich P.S. Rosewood binding looks great with the Myrtle, nice choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jammy Posted June 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2006 (edited) I'm using a 29" scale, and to keep things looking right, a 15 fret neck joint. This leaves the bridge about 1.5cm further back on the body than normal on a 000, to compensate for this I shifted the X a little, but added a large, slightly thicker than normal bridge plate to transfer the string tension stress to the X's a little better. Other than that it's normal 000 like my last (with the wing/block arrangment at the neck end like before) Side thickness was about normal (2.7mm) but I thinned them a little at the wastes to avoid cracking in the flame. Edited June 20, 2006 by jammy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted June 21, 2006 Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 I'm using a 29" scale, and to keep things looking right, a 15 fret neck joint. This leaves the bridge about 1.5cm further back on the body than normal on a 000, to compensate for this I shifted the X a little, but added a large, slightly thicker than normal bridge plate to transfer the string tension stress to the X's a little better. Other than that it's normal 000 like my last (with the wing/block arrangment at the neck end like before) Side thickness was about normal (2.7mm) but I thinned them a little at the wastes to avoid cracking in the flame. Good info. I wonder how moving the bridge position back in relation to the soundboard behind the waist area (as well asmoving the bracing back). Should be interesting to hear from you if it improves performance, or what changes you notice. Keep up the good work! Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted June 21, 2006 Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 2.7mm is pretty damn thick for sides, methinks; I've never seen anyone reccomend anything thicker than .090", usually .085", which translates to 2.16-2.3mm, down to 2mm for tight cutaways... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted June 21, 2006 Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 2.7mm is pretty damn thick for sides, methinks; I've never seen anyone reccomend anything thicker than .090", usually .085", which translates to 2.16-2.3mm, down to 2mm for tight cutaways... 1.06" is not unheard of (although a bit thick). Myrtle is pretty flexable and not extreamly dense. Really it depends a lot on the wood at least to me. When I am doing my final thickness on the sides I will run then till they flex the way I want them to. The back I sand it until it just starts to loosen up the way I want it. It does bring up a good question as to why people buy backs at a min. thickness of .14" when we all know full well they are headed for .110-.075". Do you figure most people need at least .03"-.065" to clean up slop after joining? Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted June 21, 2006 Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 2.7mm is pretty damn thick for sides, methinks; I've never seen anyone reccomend anything thicker than .090", usually .085", which translates to 2.16-2.3mm, down to 2mm for tight cutaways... 1.06" is not unheard of (although a bit thick). Myrtle is pretty flexable and not extreamly dense. Really it depends a lot on the wood at least to me. When I am doing my final thickness on the sides I will run then till they flex the way I want them to. The back I sand it until it just starts to loosen up the way I want it. It does bring up a good question as to why people buy backs at a min. thickness of .14" when we all know full well they are headed for .110-.075". Do you figure most people need at least .03"-.065" to clean up slop after joining? Peace,Rich I think it's got more to do with cleaning up bandsaw marks/not so accurate resawing than slop jointing; I know I don't need to sand at all (or practically not at all) to get an evenly glued up plate, and I'm hardly a pro at this game. I like to shoot for a lightweight box, where possible.. Mattia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted June 21, 2006 Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 I have never bought a pre-cut set. "I think it's got more to do with cleaning up bandsaw marks/not so accurate resawing than slop jointing; I know I don't need to sand at all (or practically not at all) to get an evenly glued up plate, and I'm hardly a pro at this game." Do dealers normally sell sets that have not been surfaced to remove saw marks? Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supernova9 Posted June 21, 2006 Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 Jammy, lovely work, there's a problem with your first link (pile of wood), you've written http://http//www. etc If you fix that link it'll stop directing everyone to the Microsoft homepage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted June 21, 2006 Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 (edited) I have never bought a pre-cut set. "I think it's got more to do with cleaning up bandsaw marks/not so accurate resawing than slop jointing; I know I don't need to sand at all (or practically not at all) to get an evenly glued up plate, and I'm hardly a pro at this game." Do dealers normally sell sets that have not been surfaced to remove saw marks? Peace,Rich No, they do, but I suspect it requires less setup to saw thicker boards to start off with. Although, has to be said, all the stuff I've gotten from Spanish suppliers is in the rough, just sawn. Edited June 21, 2006 by Mattia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jammy Posted June 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 It'll have strings on and be playing by tomorrow night. Mark my words, and expect photos when it's done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted June 28, 2006 Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 Can't wait to see it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwhiteandthemaple Posted June 28, 2006 Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 We all get so excited when we see acoustics being built.. because it's lot more... not "rare" but uncommon I haven't even seen the guitar yet, but I say GOTM! Can't wait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jammy Posted June 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2006 Well, it's playing! Still needs a little more fine work, and of course spraying. That will come next week (I'll be spraying my first acoustic then too. For now, here's some photos... http://www.solar.myby.co.uk/misc/andy/acoustic2/7.jpg http://www.solar.myby.co.uk/misc/andy/acoustic2/8.jpg http://www.solar.myby.co.uk/misc/andy/acoustic2/9.jpg http://www.solar.myby.co.uk/misc/andy/acoustic2/10.jpg http://www.solar.myby.co.uk/misc/andy/acoustic2/11.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted June 29, 2006 Report Share Posted June 29, 2006 Great! I wish the pics were a brighter, it is a little tuff for me to see (maybe just this computer). So how do you like the sound? Mo Gooders than you had hoped for? Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted June 30, 2006 Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 That thing looks mad stylish. But I gotta ask, since I have no clue, what is the tuning on a baratone guitar??? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jammy Posted June 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 Cheers guys. It sounds great yeah, I'm really happy with it - it needs playing in a bit but I'm sure it's going to mature nicely. As for the tuning - it's B to B at the moment, but I'm going to have a little experiment and see what sounds best over the next week or so... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted June 30, 2006 Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 Looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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