Fretting With Arbor Press

[johnsilver]

For those of you who use an arbor press for fretting (I know you're out there), what is your preferred sequence of pressing frets in neck / fingerboard construction? What I mean is - do you press the frets in the fingerboard before gluing it to the neck (allowing simple pressure on something with flat base, or do you glue the fingerboard to the neck and then press the frets? If the latter, do you use a jig or something to support the neck?

I'm asking because I just picked up the arbor ram from the machne shop where they drilled a couple of holes and tapped one for a set screw so I can use the Stewmac press.

Thanks.

[verhoevenc]

All the guitars I've fretted to date I pressed the frets into the board while it was on the already shaped neck. And yes, I did use a jig to support the neck. HOWEVER having done this a couple times now, I'm going to do it the other way around next time. I'm going to get EVERYTHING about the fingerboard done before it goes on the neck! Seems like a MUCH better way of doing things in my mind.

Chris

PS: I don't use an actual Arbor Press... I just use my drill press...

[Daniel Sorbera]

I fret -after- the fingerboard is glued on the neck, but before I carve the neck. (that way the flat bottom of the neck gives me the surface I need so I can press in the frets)

[AlGeeEater]

I fret right after I carve the back. Catching the edge of a fret with a rasp, plane or spokeshave scares the crap out of me honestly. If you've got the neck support caul there's NO reason to fret the neck before you carve it. You're only running the risk of ruining your fret job. Maybe i'm just too cautious. Also, I fret before I do all my final sanding on the neck. I get the neck to shape, fret it then smooth it all out with sandpaper.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_suppl...pport_Caul.html

I used to use my drill press with the cauls, and used Godin's way, but now that i've got the arbor and the neck support caul I can glue the fretboard on, shape the neck and get everything sanded and ready and just fret it.

Chris

Edited June 30, 2006 by AlGeeEater

[johnsilver]

Thanks guys. Thats helpful.

Algee, I have that caul - have used it to help glue on the fretboard in the past and as support when hammering frets. Most of the time, it is used to hold a roll of paper towels and keep it from rolling away. Works great for that!

I think I'll do what I usually do i.e. prepare the fretboard, glue it on, carve the neck and then fret. This time, I'll press them in instead of hammering.

[oz tradie]

Algee, I have that caul - have used it to help glue on the fretboard in the past and has support when hammering frets. Most of the time, it is used to hold a roll of paper towels and keep it from rolling away. Works great for that!

Had I known it doubled as a paper towel support rack, I would've bought one for the kitchen also

[Mickguard]

If all goes well, I should be ready to fret next week

I plan to use the Stew Mac caul thingamajig --my plan was to install it in an old drill chuck, which will be fixed into an old drill stand.

But I'm wondering what kind of force is required to get the frets in? Maybe my idea won't work?

I think it makes sense to press the frets in before the neck is carved, also because it gives you a better feel of the neck as you're carving. And with the practice neck I made, I barely came near the fretboard, since that part of it had already been sized up with the template.

On the other hand, I won't be dressing the frets or anything until the carve's all done.

[AlGeeEater]

The only reason I sand after I fret is because of the file marks I usually leave in the sides of the necks after getting the frets to the neck. It's pointless for me to sand the neck twice when I can just sand it once and have it righ/perfect one time.

Also, the force is dependant on a lot of things, such as board material, fret slot size, tang size, how clean the slots are, ect, ect. You're going to see when you go and try to fret your first fret you're going to have to 'feel' the fretting process. Some frets may require more force than others, some may go in really smooth and easy. The only important thing is to not smash the fret in or you'll end up with a low fret and a dent in the board.

Do you have the fretting series from Stew-Mac? They're great DVD's, i've got Advanced Fretting 1 & 2 (didn't need the basic). Very informative with good tips!

Edited July 1, 2006 by AlGeeEater

[Mickguard]

Do you have the fretting series from Stew-Mac? They're great DVD's, i've got Advanced Fretting 1 & 2 (didn't need the basic). Very informative with good tips!

I'm not that far gone yet.

I'm getting there though --not only did I buy the book on wood finishing, I'm also seriously considering investing in the entire "Understanding your Centerline" DVD series

[WezV]

If all goes well, I should be ready to fret next week

I plan to use the Stew Mac caul thingamajig --my plan was to install it in an old drill chuck, which will be fixed into an old drill stand.

But I'm wondering what kind of force is required to get the frets in? Maybe my idea won't work?

I think it makes sense to press the frets in before the neck is carved, also because it gives you a better feel of the neck as you're carving. And with the practice neck I made, I barely came near the fretboard, since that part of it had already been sized up with the template.

On the other hand, I won't be dressing the frets or anything until the carve's all done.

I use my very cheap drill press with stew-mac's fretting caul and neck support. The drill press provides more than enough pressure but i do have to put blocks of wood under the drillstable to stop if moving when i press down.

I carve first then fret.