al heeley Posted July 17, 2006 Report Posted July 17, 2006 (edited) I came across a big slab of what I'm told is probably mahogany at the back of my garage yesterday, there's enough for 4 guitar bodies. It was part of a big old shelf unit next to a fireplace we ripped out when we moved into our house 3 years ago. I had completely forgotten about it. It's 38mm thick and so I attacked it with my jigsaw to start on a thinline tele project I've been thinking about for the last few months. I cut a couple of blanks from it and started cleaning it up. After sanding the paint off it appears I've cut the body with the grain going across the guitar and not along it. Is this likely to be a problem with stability later? I'm told its more likely to warp/curl in this direction. Have I commited a carnal sin? Edited July 17, 2006 by al heeley Quote
Mickguard Posted July 17, 2006 Report Posted July 17, 2006 Have I commited a carnal sin? (no, no...don't go there... must resist...must resist...leave this one for marksound... ) Quote
al heeley Posted July 18, 2006 Author Report Posted July 18, 2006 Note: The longitudinal lines aer the remains of saw marks now sanded out. The grain runs width-wise. Is this going to be ok or have I created a turkey? Quote
Prostheta Posted July 18, 2006 Report Posted July 18, 2006 I don't think so (at a guess) as the body isn't a "stress taking" part of the body. If it was the neck, then you'd have a good couple of inches of grain ready to split as soon as you put string/truss rod tension on it :-) The only part that may take tension badly is the neck joint when the neck "pulls" the wood upwards on the same axis as the grain. In this case I presume a bolt-on configuration would help to spread the load to the back of the wood and through the neck joint. This is purely an educated guess and I am more than willing to learn that I am wrong if indeed I am. Hope my thoughts help your thought processes, etc. In future, I would run the grain the length of the guitar of course! Quote
Mickguard Posted July 18, 2006 Report Posted July 18, 2006 Anyway, since it's a thinline, you'll be putting a top on there, right? If the top is thick enough, I can't see you having any troubles. Assuming you get the grain going in the right direction this time Quote
al heeley Posted July 18, 2006 Author Report Posted July 18, 2006 (edited) I'm having a think about the top. I could use another sliver of Mahogany, (cut the right way) but I've also been looking at burr veneers on ebay. If I glue a 0.6mm veneer to a suitable top, would it be too delicate to damage/delamination? Not having much luck so far finding a decent maple cap in uk, say 1/8" - 1/4" thick. Would most timber merchants be able to slice off a suitable thickness of the Mahogany for me? Sorry for all the newbie Q's but this is my first 'scratch-build'. Edited July 18, 2006 by al heeley Quote
Mickguard Posted July 18, 2006 Report Posted July 18, 2006 I'm having a think about the top. I could use another sliver of Mahogany, (cut the right way) but I've also been looking at burr veneers on ebay. If I glue a 0.6mm veneer to a suitable top, would it be too delicate to damage/delamination? Not having much luck so far finding a decent maple cap in uk, say 1/8" - 1/4" thick. Would most timber merchants be able to slice off a suitable thickness of the Mahogany for me? Sorry for all the newbie Q's but this is my first 'scratch-build'. Quote
Supernova9 Posted July 18, 2006 Report Posted July 18, 2006 If you're looking for maple tops in the UK, check out www.craft-supplies.co.uk. Give them a call to find out what they've got in stock, but you'll be able to get 1/4" tops from them no problem. Quote
al heeley Posted July 18, 2006 Author Report Posted July 18, 2006 thanks for the llink, perfect! Quote
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