Maiden69 Posted August 24, 2006 Report Share Posted August 24, 2006 No need for a jointer if you buy a bockmatch top, all you need is a straight strong table top and a few pieces of coarse sandpaper taped to the table. All my tops are made like that. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC02008.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01898.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al heeley Posted August 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2006 Lovely work but I guess I was expecting your pics to explain your post. I have a straight worktop, I have sandpaper and I have tape. Now how do I make a better job of joining the maple sheet next time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 25, 2006 Report Share Posted August 25, 2006 A jointer is a power planer with an adjustable fence which allows you to plane at an angle to one of the existing faces. In your case, you would clamp your maple back face to face ("unbookmatching!") and run the gluing edge over the jointer, keeping the large face tight to the fence. The planer (if set up well) will give you a perfect 90° planed face you can glue. I also use the jointer to true up wood for body blanks, thin out neck laminates (after attaching to other pieces of wood for safety!) and true up the top face of necks ready for adding the fretboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted August 25, 2006 Report Share Posted August 25, 2006 Yes a jointer is a great piece of equipment but not necesary to obtain a good bookmatch top. The way I did it, and I don't have pics now but next friday I should have my move here and I will be setting up shop again and I have 2 tops to glue... is to use a trued 2x4 in my case I had a 2x4 machined tube, like the one in the center of the pic in this link http://www.ecobuildnetwork.org/pdfs/Plaste...222x4%20tube%22 and I had a friend at a machine shop true one side and just use double tape and tape a few pieces of 1/4 sheet 80 grit sandpaper leaving 1" between them so the dust don't clog the paper too fast. Then I clamp the tops halves together and sand the edge until smooth. You can use another piece of wood as a fence guide, but I find this unnecesary, since if you make a small angle in the pieces they will match perfectly because they will be 180 degrees apart. And the best thing is that you don't have to drive to a shop, pay for somebody to do it, or buy a jointer. I will love to have one but they are a bit expensive and I'm in the military and I move a lot, and I'm barely at my weight maximum right now, any more equipment and I have to pay to have it moved... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Odin Posted August 25, 2006 Report Share Posted August 25, 2006 What a nice guitar! I would have prefered black tuners.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 25, 2006 Report Share Posted August 25, 2006 I love my jointer. I know it was expensive, but having the tools to work with (as opposed to outsourcing) makes you much more aware of what they can do, and that also makes you more creative and ambitious in your thinking, ultimately showing in your work. Talking of black tuners, I replaced the pegs on my Washburn D42-SCE with ebony pegs and it looks awesome. Something has to be said about black binding and black pegs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al heeley Posted August 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2006 Update: Rear ctrl cavity routed and maple offcut cover made. P/up cavity routs finished, holes drilled for the string-thru ferrules and shallow recess for bridge routed. Some further dark tobacco staining on the edges of the3 body to bring up the maple figure a bit more strongly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted August 28, 2006 Report Share Posted August 28, 2006 I REALLY like the colour of that dye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al heeley Posted August 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2006 Work on the body is now nearly complete. The rear ctrl plate has been stained and sanded to match the rear profile. The neck pocket has been routed -always a scary moment for me, but this time I'm glad to say I ended up with a really good clean rout and a nice snug fit. Here's a mock-up with the gfs hot hex pups. Now waiting for the Rustins plastic coating to arrive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 30, 2006 Report Share Posted August 30, 2006 Rustin's plastic finish...heard Setch mention this stuff, but not figured out which product this is from the Rustin's website! Any pointers Al? I'm sure Tele neck is begging for a satin finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted August 30, 2006 Report Share Posted August 30, 2006 Now waiting for the Rustins plastic coating to arrive. A shop near where I live in Lindley sells Rustins plastic coating. Thought that could be useful to know for if you ever need it and cant be bothered to wait for delivery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al heeley Posted August 31, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2006 Thx Ben, acccording to Rustins, the nearest place I could get some was a shop on the other side of Wakefield. I ended up going thru ebay/mail order. Careful you get the right one, there's a gloss and a satin version, also one for treating wood floors. http://www.rustins.co.uk/product.htm?chgprod=PCGL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 31, 2006 Report Share Posted August 31, 2006 That's a pretty spooky post Al. You could almost reach in and pick up that box! It's a little small though. I might have to order a larger pack! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al heeley Posted September 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 Finishing details have been slow on this. I've routed a channel round the guitar and installed a narrow cream and a black binding strip to tidy up the face. It's had a few coats of Rustins Plastic Coating, then 800 & 1500 wet sanded, finally buffed with fine t-cut compound. Finally some neutral wood furniture wax was rubbed in and buffed to a shine. Really brings out the rich dark colours and the maple quilt. Not much to do now - install the electrics and get the neck set in properly. Prety pleased with her so far. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/al_heeley/m2b.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travismoore Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 Awsome that looks pritty sick =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitefly SA Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 What happened by those top ferrules? looks like replaced a chunk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desopolis Posted September 10, 2006 Report Share Posted September 10, 2006 What happened by those top ferrules? looks like replaced a chunk. If I remimber correctly, AL was the guy who drilled them allitle off to the side, so everyone suggested a different piece of wood.. either way I like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted September 10, 2006 Report Share Posted September 10, 2006 either way I like it. I concur its looking good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al heeley Posted September 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2006 Well she's finally finished. Mojo#2. Some problems with the Rustins Plastic Coating on the back, with a couple of patches being removed by the buffing pad when t-cutting back. Had to go back twice and redo the back. Electrics are basically a PRS McCarty setup, which is my favourite versatile and user-friendly setup. The McCarty type push-pull tone pot has been replaced by a mini switch which toggles between all pups being full HB or coil-tapped. This, along with the conventional 3-way pup selector, gives 6 really good usable tones. The mini switch can also be used like a solo boost, which is why I like this ctrl configuration so much. Flick it back and it gives a thinner more trebley rhythm sound, really nice with both pups selected. Flick it forward for big full-bodied warm lead. Tonally I am very pleased with her, she is big and fat, loads of sustain (for a bolt-on neck), quite deep and warm for a mahogany body considerably thinner than a Les Paul. Quite Les Paul-like overall but with a percussive treble edge at full volume, just that edge coming from the maple neck. For me, the ideal recipe for a warm toned versatile guitar. She is very comfortable to play, not too heavy, neck nicely accessible and well balanced. Now all I need to do is refine my woodworking skills a little and make an overall neater job of aligning cavities and finishing off. Here she is with her sister, the solid mahogany plain and simple mark#1. Mark 1 has the back contouring but no front shaping, binding or coil-tap. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/al_heeley/m2s.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travismoore Posted September 14, 2006 Report Share Posted September 14, 2006 wow there's a very obvious imporvment there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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